I'm not tod or Duncan either but I suspect that tod has the same attitude (roughly) to face jointing that I do (can't speak for Duncan). Basically if it isn't straight to start with, it won't get made straight (pemanently) on a jointer. Because the timber I work ends up in sold products delivered all over Europe I am willing to cull anything that is twisted, cupped or bowed. This material either gets cut short enough that the deformity doesn't matter and won't in the future or it ends up in the firewood pile. I work on the basis that no piece of wood will ever be flatter and truer than it is when it comes off the stack
And no - I don't own or use a jointer either.
Ian,
You can pretty much speak for me too!
I dont face joint my timber.
One of the advantages of living in a small country is that all my timber suppliers are within an hours drive away, my main one only ten minutes. I go and select every board that I buy - if it is bowed, cupped, or twisted I don't buy it! The time taken is more than worthwhile.
Like Ian, if when the time comes for machining I detect any flaw I simply cut up that board for short componants.
I find that by judicious use of the thicknesser I can turn out flat, true boards every time. By this I mean flipping the board over and around lengthways after every pass. Then when I've got it flat I plane to the right thickness working with the grain for a good finish.
If after all this I've got a board with a slight bow on it I'll use it for a face frame or the hinged stile of a door - that way it is being held pemanantly true by it's ajoining componant.
I guess that if I was a hobby guy who'd bought just the right amount of wood for a particular job I would face joint in the text-book fashion, but in a professional shop with the right selection of timber in the first place I have always found it unnecessary.
There - I'm glad I've finally got that off my chest and I'm particularly pleased to discover that I'm not alone!