What type of glue? and why?

whats your go to glue?

  • tite bond 1 the original

    Votes: 12 21.1%
  • tite bond 2 exterior use?

    Votes: 24 42.1%
  • tite bond 3 longer open time and shelf life

    Votes: 20 35.1%
  • other

    Votes: 9 15.8%

  • Total voters
    57
  • Poll closed .

larry merlau

Member
Messages
18,267
Location
Delton, Michigan
I don't know Larry I had a production shop for about 17 years and when I used II I would have to deal with the wood creeping at the glue joints and Titebond told me to use Titebond I if I didn't want the joint to move. Now I did use it on Bench's that went in Locker rooms and had no problems with it there but we didn't care if it move as long as it held together of which it did.:dunno:
Jay
thanks for the reply, i was just informed on another forum that they too had a large shop and had trouble with T3 being to rubbery and had some glued up panels come apart while planing them so i quess i will count my lucky stars and get rid of the T3 i was told to use.... and go back to the original like they say if it smeels bad it usually is and it was startin to smell...
 

Ian Barley

Member
Messages
562
III - I use about 3 gallons a year. Stuff goes outside so waterproofness is the deciding factor. No adverse info in the last 4-5 years.
 

larry merlau

Member
Messages
18,267
Location
Delton, Michigan
III - I use about 3 gallons a year. Stuff goes outside so waterproofness is the deciding factor. No adverse info in the last 4-5 years.
ok ian now you got me be fiddled,, i know woodworkers are opinionated folk but i get info from expeirnce folk sayin its bad then i get info from across the pond and expeiernced as well sayin its ok???? so help me out hewre folks is it black or white or is there gray in there too???:dunno: ian i do know from alittle expeirnce in it that this 3 is rubbery compared to the orignal.. i just dumped out the 3 i had filled my glue bottle with and put in the original:huh: i got alittel time left before i have to deliver the projects but i would kinda like to get my mind resolved on which way to go here i know its doing sumpin to get me straight but do the best ya kin:thumb:
 

Bill Lantry

Member
Messages
2,666
Location
Inside the Beltway
Larry,

I think you're asking for rationality on this one, which is always a bad idea! ;)

I use titebond III for purely irrational reasons. I used to use whatever I could find. Then I started using gorilla glue, and used it for a couple years. I laughed at the oldtimers still using regular glue, like they were still riding around in model Ts with their glue pots a-boiling... ;)

Then I built a new router table, and had to knock the old one (built with gorilla glue) apart. I dreaded it. But lo and behold, the durned thing almost came apart in my hands! That was the end of my relationship with gorilla glue. My tolerances just aren't tight enough. Whoever said "that's close enough for woodworking" has never seen something I've built, and gorilla glue adds no strength when you have gaps.

Then I started using titebond II. Worked fine. But I live in a high summer humidity environment, and was able to irrationally blame failed joints not on my poor craftsmanship, but rather on glue failing in 99 % humidity. Hey, any excuse works! ;)

So now I use titebond III. That's the honest truth about why. But I have the feeling the fact my joints don't fail anymore has *nothing* to do with what kind of glue I used. Completely irrational, I know. But it works for me! ;)

Thanks,

Bill

(ps. My shop is often pretty cold in the winter, and there's a big difference between getting the materials to 45 degrees vs. 55 degrees. Oh, and I often spend a lot of time messing up assemblies, due to clamping problems, three year olds, and general stupidity, so the longer open time means something... ;)
 
Last edited:

larry merlau

Member
Messages
18,267
Location
Delton, Michigan
well i took the time to look at the table tha someon posted and according to what i read the t-3 is stronger than the t-1 is 40oo for t-3 and 36 for the t-1:dunno: i better go get drink my head is startin to hurt:)
 
Last edited:

Ian Barley

Member
Messages
562
ok ian now you got me be fiddled,, i know woodworkers are opinionated folk but i get info from expeirnce folk sayin its bad then i get info from across the pond and expeiernced as well sayin its ok???? so help me out hewre folks is it black or white or is there gray in there too???:dunno: ian i do know from alittle expeirnce in it that this 3 is rubbery compared to the orignal.. i just dumped out the 3 i had filled my glue bottle with and put in the original:huh: i got alittel time left before i have to deliver the projects but i would kinda like to get my mind resolved on which way to go here i know its doing sumpin to get me straight but do the best ya kin:thumb:
Larry

My primary consideration is ease of use and waterproofness. Every joint that I glue is also screwed. Creep is not an issue and the glue is primarily there to help resist racking forces. If I was gluing up panels or doing finesse work then other characteristics would be more important. If I was builiding boats TIII would not be waterproof enough but for what I do it appears to be. As with most of the opinions held by woodworkers, the trick is to make sure that you are comparing similar situations. If you are building Adirondack chairs my advise is probably worthwhile, if not then not.
 

Bill Simpson

Member
Messages
1,758
Larry it seems that you are looking for an all inclusive and exclusive panacia of gluedom. It ain't there. I don't think there is one glue for all jobs, tasks, and screwups.

In my stash I have a range of CAs from thin to thick as well as Polyurethane and the afore mentioned Titebonds I, II, & III. (Bad luck with Elmo, Elmo no more for me except with paperdolls)

Bill said " I laughed at the oldtimers still using regular glue, like they were still riding around in model Ts with their glue pots a-boiling... "

Well, I am building a wood body Model T as we speak and have used everything from Epoxy to CA including Polyurethane, The trim is held on with Titebond III (glued and clamped no metal fasteners)

My suggestion is get some of what you need for the particular task at hand and remember how it worked for you and adjust your future adventures to what you have learned. Trying to sort a solution to which glue is best from the varied opinions of some of the most opinionated persons in the kingdom is like taking a Pepsi/Coke test and someone throws in 7Up. :dunno::huh::dunno::huh::dunno::huh::dunno::huh::
 

larry merlau

Member
Messages
18,267
Location
Delton, Michigan
well bill. thanks

for coming back and clearing this up for me:D i hadnt throw away the t3 but i have got t1 back in the bottles. the proof will be in the puddin tommrrow as i try to machine these panels that are glued with t3... if you hear a loud noise you will know what happened:) thasnk to all who have contributed..
 
Top