glenn bradley
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First, my apologies for those who actually carve and sharpen their tools more normally
Even those of us who would never consider ourselves wood carvers may use a gouge now and again. I made this helper for my Worksharp years ago out of a random scrap of wood.
It gives me a really nice edge that I hone a bit more before cutting wood like buttah.
However, there was always this little divot that existed in the original piece of scrap that left an irregularity.
It obviously really bothered me since it took me years to carve out (pun intended) about 20 minutes to make another one.
Do yourself a favor, mill your blank square and true.
Your threaded knob of choice will determine the placement of the tool's through hole somewhat.
For threading hardwood for a 1/4 x 20 thread I drill a 13/64" hole but, whatever works for you.
Placement of the through hole is easy as I can use the old jig to position the fence.
I smile every time I use this crude handle that my grandfather made back who-knows-when.
You've seen me use this trick before. Drill a hole in a piece of scrap and clamp it to your sander in an appropriate spot for the radius you are after. I have roughed out the curve at the bandsaw.
I just use the drill bit as a pivot.
Slip the blank over the drill, turn on the sander, rotate the blank 180 degrees and presto.
Now I should be good for the next few years . . . and no divot
The through hole is made to just fit your tool. Depending on the sweep (this is a #9) you can modify the outer curve. For the #9 I use the exact radius from the pivot hole. A greater or lesser arc would be used for others.
Even those of us who would never consider ourselves wood carvers may use a gouge now and again. I made this helper for my Worksharp years ago out of a random scrap of wood.
It gives me a really nice edge that I hone a bit more before cutting wood like buttah.
However, there was always this little divot that existed in the original piece of scrap that left an irregularity.
It obviously really bothered me since it took me years to carve out (pun intended) about 20 minutes to make another one.
Do yourself a favor, mill your blank square and true.
Your threaded knob of choice will determine the placement of the tool's through hole somewhat.
For threading hardwood for a 1/4 x 20 thread I drill a 13/64" hole but, whatever works for you.
Placement of the through hole is easy as I can use the old jig to position the fence.
I smile every time I use this crude handle that my grandfather made back who-knows-when.
You've seen me use this trick before. Drill a hole in a piece of scrap and clamp it to your sander in an appropriate spot for the radius you are after. I have roughed out the curve at the bandsaw.
I just use the drill bit as a pivot.
Slip the blank over the drill, turn on the sander, rotate the blank 180 degrees and presto.
Now I should be good for the next few years . . . and no divot
The through hole is made to just fit your tool. Depending on the sweep (this is a #9) you can modify the outer curve. For the #9 I use the exact radius from the pivot hole. A greater or lesser arc would be used for others.
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