WS3K - Gouge Sharpening Jig

glenn bradley

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Location
SoCal
First, my apologies for those who actually carve and sharpen their tools more normally
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Even those of us who would never consider ourselves wood carvers may use a gouge now and again. I made this helper for my Worksharp years ago out of a random scrap of wood.


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It gives me a really nice edge that I hone a bit more before cutting wood like buttah.


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However, there was always this little divot that existed in the original piece of scrap that left an irregularity.


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It obviously really bothered me since it took me years to carve out (pun intended) about 20 minutes to make another one.
Do yourself a favor, mill your blank square and true.


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Your threaded knob of choice will determine the placement of the tool's through hole somewhat.


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For threading hardwood for a 1/4 x 20 thread I drill a 13/64" hole but, whatever works for you.


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Placement of the through hole is easy as I can use the old jig to position the fence.


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I smile every time I use this crude handle that my grandfather made back who-knows-when.


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You've seen me use this trick before. Drill a hole in a piece of scrap and clamp it to your sander in an appropriate spot for the radius you are after. I have roughed out the curve at the bandsaw.


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I just use the drill bit as a pivot.


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Slip the blank over the drill, turn on the sander, rotate the blank 180 degrees and presto.


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Now I should be good for the next few years . . . and no divot
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The through hole is made to just fit your tool. Depending on the sweep (this is a #9) you can modify the outer curve. For the #9 I use the exact radius from the pivot hole. A greater or lesser arc would be used for others.
 
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Several handy tricks in your post, Glenn. Thanks. :thumb:

I learned the value of sharpening jigs for gouges years ago with my lathe tools. Sure, there are some folks who can get a great edge free-handing a gouge or chisel on the sharpening medium, but I guarantee you can get a more consistent edge and lose less steel using sharpening jigs.
 
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