What's new

Yep, it's a clock

Rennie Heuer

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
9,129
Location
Constantine, MI
This is going to be a clock. Not my design - based on a customer's wishes. I let him have full responsibility for the design which has proven to be an experience in itself. He's a little OCD and this was a challenge for him! We exchanged no less than 28 pictures of the layout over the last week. He would mark up each picture, first swapping sticks to get the mix right, and then tweaking the position back and forth to get the edge spacing correct.

We're all done tweaking so I've marked up the back to keep everything in order and now each piece has to be sanded, the dye on the maple will have to be touched up and the same for the ebonizing of the walnut. I'll glue up about 5 at a time by laying down a light bead of glue, flushing up the backs, and popping a few brads to hold them in line when clamped. The finish will be rattle can lacquer. There will be 1/4 x 1/2 aluminum bar routed into the face at 12/6 and 3/9. All the bars will be the same length because... The hanging will be interesting. I'll attach four french cleats to the back so it can be hung in four different orientations - hence the bar length.

Seems he likes his idea so much that I am also making a smaller version now for his kitchen. The large one is roughly 26" square and the smaller one will be roughly 12" square.

Abstract Clock - 12-9-a.jpg
IMG_0225.jpg
IMG_0224a.jpg
 

Jim DeLaney

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
5,878
Location
RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
It will be a chore to keep the dark sanding dust from contaminating the lighter woods. Same for finishing. Some of those guys bleed.
Ted's right. Bleeding will be likely be a problem. I'd suggest taping off the edges to be glued, then sealing the faces with shellac before gluing everything up.

BTW, has your OCD client seen the various woods with finish on them? Does he/she know they'll look different than the raw wood?
 

Rennie Heuer

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
9,129
Location
Constantine, MI
Ted's right. Bleeding will be likely be a problem. I'd suggest taping off the edges to be glued, then sealing the faces with shellac before gluing everything up.

BTW, has your OCD client seen the various woods with finish on them? Does he/she know they'll look different than the raw wood?
Shhhhhhhhhhhh!
 

Ryan Mooney

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
5,690
Location
The Gorge Area, Oregon
:lurk:

The Water based Poly should work well for that based on some tests I've done. I've also used Polycrylic with some success, but it does "plastic" the wood a bit more in some cases. If you can get the glue up such that you don't need any post-glue sanding that would imho be the best case scenario.
 
Top