How do you mark on dark wood?

I don't think so, but if you find some please post a link. I searched in vain on the net for about 6 weeks as I wanted to use either white or yellow with the Incra rules. I came to the conclusion that it didn't exist and ended up just ordering some regular sized white and yellow lead pencils.

Forgot to add: I'm sure there are plenty of places you could get the std white/yellow pencils from but I found decent prices and service here:
http://www.misterart.com/
 
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I've sometimes run a pencil along a scribed line in light wood to make it show up better. Perhaps on walnut you could try scribing, rubbing some chalk on and wiping away the excess. Haven't done it myself, but it might be worth a try. :)
 
I make the mark in the general desired area with white chalk, then use a marking knife to scribe the exact mark right thru the somewhat wide, white chalk mark. Shows up just fine. It is pretty much what Ian describes, just in a different and more expedient manner. Works for me!
 
I use blue leaded pencils.

Send me you address by pm and I'll send you some.
 
The knife mark on the chaulk line works well, also, I have a "White-Out" thing that is just like a ball point pen, used for correcting mistakes, but in this case I use it for marking dark wood.

Cheers!
 
You can use a regular white or yellow colored pencil, sharpen to a blunt point, then on fine sandpaper, bring it to a knifelike edge. Orient the edge as you would a marking knife, and make your mark. If used in this way, it will make a very fine line. If you need to draw a long line, you may have to "re-hone" your knife edge to keep it fine, but for just marking to take to the table saw or whatever, it works very well.

Dan
 
Dunno what all this "scribing" nonsense is about...I just use the white chalk by itself:
it's not like I can measure or cut more accurately than that anyway.:p :eek: :doh:
Well, if yer hand wasn't so shaky while you hold the piece under your laser, your cuts could follow a thinner line. Hold still Lee...it'll only sting a little bit. :rofl:

On the few occasions where I actually measure and mark a cut, I do the Xacto knife scribe/white chalk routine on dark woods. For the small stuff I build, I tend to rely on my fence and miter gauge for most of my measurements.
 
I've used the scribe on a white chalk line..(not my favorite), put masking tape on and then used the very fine black felt tip pens, (can't remember the name of them tonight), but I also have used the white liquid paper Fine Line correcting pens with pretty good results....(some brands work better than others).
 
i use a plain ol` #2 pencil:eek: .....if you catch the light glancing off the mark it`s clear enough to cut on a chop saw.....for dovetails i`ll stick tape to the board and do my layout on the tape then scribe with a marking knife...tod
 
they do make colored lead for mechanical pencils. your best bet would be some type of drafting or art store. i know they make them because we have them here in our supply closet at work. not that we ever draw by hand anymore but i guess they just keep some on hand.

chris
 
I'm with Dan on this one, I use a white artist pencil and sharpen it to a flat edge using sticky sandpaper attached to the workbench (for easy re-sharpening). I will also use the masking tape method. There just isn't an easy way. Or - you could switch to Maple.......
 
I use colored pencils available from Arts & Crafts stores or as I do, pinch them from my grandkids, I use their yellow pencils.

Like you said, it is hard to see marks on Walnut (I use a lot of Walnut) but with good lighting and a clear mark you can see quite well. Only problem with the colored pencil is the marks are not as fine as a regular pencil, so.... when I get to the point of final cuts I use a knife edged marker.
 
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