A small arch top wine cabinet

With all the stuff cut up it was time to make the arch:clap:. It is about time!:D

Since the arch will be about 40" wide a form is needed to create that bend and in this case, forming up outside the arch seemed reasonable.
Thus I started with 2 pieces of flat 3/4" plywood 4' wide and crosscut to 28''.
The center of the plywood was marked on each piece,
center on 4' plywood.jpg

then that mark was continued all the way up with the framing square.
marking centers.jpg

I made the compass by counter sinking the counter sink bit ( until a pencil point of lead would poke through) at the end I wanted to use the pencil at. Went too deep with my drilling but not so deep that I could not control the accuracy. Then measuring from that point I made several different holes to be used as the compass points.
First a drill bit and the nail to be usde for the compass point.
creating a drill bit.jpg

With the drill bit made, we can drill a hole that the nail will fit!:doh:
using the new drill bit.jpg

This is a photo of the compass and it's job. Visible are the numerous holes set 3/8" apart ( for marking the bent plywood layers).
compass at work.jpg
 

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Im down with a bulging disk again, so these type threads keep me feeling like Im stil involved.
Been warned by the warden, if I breech the garage door, I will be severly punished.

bend that ply, Im waiting on it, cause I got some ideas for a build and Id like to see this stuff.
 
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nothing too complicated, the laymen are following it easy enough.

Very pleased to hear that, don't know sometimes how clearly my typing comes across. Don't want to be too basic nor too complex, just clear. Thanks Allen.
S :wave:

Thanks for the step-by-step so far, Shaz. :thumb:

Thank you Vaughn :wave:,
If you have any ideas to improve my presentation please let me know.:thumb:
Greg Cook gave me great insight and hopefully my presentaion has improved due to it. More input for me, can be a good thing, I am educable in some areas. :eek::rofl: Don't ask.:rolleyes:
S :)

Im down with a bulging disk again, so these type threads keep me feeling like Im stil involved.

You are involved and storing up knowledge. How is your drawing? A very good thing to work on when less mobile. Sorry about the disc problem. Ed the Chef, who helps me regularly is out also nursing and old broken back injury. What do they have to say about your recouperation?

Been warned by the warden, if I breech the garage door, I will be severly punished.

Good for her! :thumb:

bend that ply, Im waiting on it, cause I got some ideas for a build and Id like to see this stuff.

The story..........Where we left off............

What I am going to do is
#1 mark, perpendicular and equally spaced lines out side the line of the bent wood, flush to the outermost line. These lines are for cleats.
first jig for scribing blocks.jpg
first jig (1).jpg

#2 A mark will then be made showing me the center of each block when they are covered up and invisible to the eye.
jig to center.jpg

#3 We will staple 3/4"x 3/4"x 3" blocks down on those lines, out side the perimeter, perfectly flush to that outside line.
arch top wine shelter039.jpg
cleats nailed down.jpg

(I will be making both pieces of the plywood mold simultaneously and symmetrical (mirror images) of each other at almost the same time.) It is very important to have the lines line up across from each other (exactly) on these plywood forms.

#4 The pre-ripped and pre-crosscut 3/4"x3"x 11 7/16" boards, will be nailed flush to the front of the blocks that serve as cleats. creating my arch top jig.
nailing the spreader.jpg

These things are woodworking projects in their own right.
 
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the back has been rested for over a week,(2 surgeries back in the 90s, Im not stranger to this stuff) Ill be back in the shop sometime next week getting ready with some light work.(I have to deliver that bed I made 500 miles away, and pick up my next projects lumber)


Im already sure the finished wine cabinet will be a piece of absolute individuality and beauty.
The jigs are so much commons sense, (precise) its great to see the thought process work through preparation of a somewhat difficult task(arched cabinet top) to achieve a final product.

Ill say it again, thanx for sharing this

*
 
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that jig rocks shaz...looking good.

hey is that a spotnail stapler, it looks like the old orange ones. i use spotnail brad guns and staplers. i love how small the straight 16ga guns are.
 
the back has been rested for over a week,(2 surgeries back in the 90s, Im not stranger to this stuff) Ill be back in the shop sometime next week getting ready with some light work.(I have to deliver that bed I made 500 miles away, and pick up my next projects lumber)
Glad to hear your forecast for getting back in the mix!:thumb:
S :)




Im already sure the finished wine cabinet will be a piece of absolute individuality and beauty.
The jigs are so much commons sense, (yes they are when we learn to think that way in building) (precise) its great to see the thought process work through preparation of a somewhat difficult task(arched cabinet top) (only difficult until you understand the process) to achieve a final product.

Ill say it again, thanx for sharing this
You are Welcome,
Shaz :)

*

that jig rocks shaz...looking good.

Thanks Chris :wave:, I think it rocks too and not because I built it. Others have let me enjoy their knowledge building this kind of stuff, and I am just passing some stuff along, really glad you like it! S :)

hey is that a spotnail stapler, it looks like the old orange ones. i use spotnail brad guns and staplers. i love how small the straight 16ga guns are.

Yes they are, I have a green and an orange spotnailer stapler shooting the 1 1/8" that run like the pink battery bunny!:rofl: And use my spotnailer brad guns for 1 3/4" brads. What is a young fellow doing with such old guns?:dunno: S :) /quote]

On with the story.............

Making the jig to mark the center of the blocks was an evolving thing, Darwin would have been proud til I told him I didn't come from a monkey!:eek::rofl::rofl::rofl:

I started with the compass thing, marked the lines outside the arch for the blocks, then wanted to create a jig for marking lines inside the arch, for nailing into the center of the blocks when they were hidden by the bending ply.
I thought I would
#1 add a 3/8" spacer protruding from the side at the block line.
#2 Line that 3/8" up with the line marked for the blocks and
#3 strike another line now set for 3/8" , on center of the 3/4" blocks.
See pictures below......

dr1.jpg
dr2a.jpg
dr2b.jpg
dr4.jpg
dr5.jpg
dr6.jpg


Seemed to be on course:D, until I looked at my lines:eek: !! Nice jig, wrong monkey! :rofl:
Time to rethink my theory:huh:.
Theory A. Use compass (not considering it had parallel lines:eek:).
Theory A. 2.0 Create marking jig originating from circle center:doh:.

final jig to end all jigs.jpg

final jig to end all jigs (1).jpg

final jig to end all jigs (2).jpg

final jig to end all jigs (3).jpg
 
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With the arch layed out seems like time to build it :),
but wait, let's look first at the information we can gather from the layout.

layout at the top shelf (1).jpg

This photo show so much information!
Since the arch caps the cabinet, let us divide and conquer to make it easier to piece together into one big unit.

I decided to
#1 build the arch seperate,
#2 build the cabinet seperate,
#3 install the shelves in the cabinet,
#4 build the cross bracing for the wine bottles (10 1/2" squares is what they like) and install that,
#5 then add the arch top last..
Oh and then
#6 the trim:doh::rofl:. The journey is a fun thing, most often.

layout at the top shelf (1).jpg


Okay, same photo as above, what does it show us?

#1 The outer layer of bending board continues going,

down, past the

#2 grey, cross hatched board which runs horizontally. That is the top shelf.

The top surface of that shelf is
#3 the diameter line of the arch.

From the upper left hand corner of that shelf
#4 the arch flattens out, moving downward, never to curve again :D.

#5 The length of the 2 side pieces of the cabinet can now be determined (those pieces [running vertically] marked with the blue cross hatched pencil markings). That length/height will be measured from the underside of the top shelf, (in grey) to 1 3/4" above the bottom of the opening. John S. wants to add a 2x12 (1 1/2" x 11 1/4") under the cabinet. The extra 1/4" is to shim.

#6 The width of all the shelves (the horizontal board marked in the red) have been determined.

That size is:
A. The width of the top shelf (39 7/8", marked in grey)
B. minus the thickness of the 2 sides (marked blue). This measurement can be determined by measuring two of the pieces of plywood (to be used for the sides) squeezed together.
C. The subtaction of the thickness of 2 sides from the total length of the top shelf equals the exact red board length, and all the other shelves below it, to be cut at the same time.
I realized 40 years after formal schooling that I do use algebra!:eek: Basically here it is, A-2B=C :doh:A real revelation to me!:thumb:

With this information, I decided to build my arch, build my box and attach the two.
Shaz
 
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Let us go through this one more time quickly.
Here is a picture of the plywood form layed out with the blocks to be used as cleats.
blocks for cleats.jpg

Shown here are the blocks nailed on. Notice the cut holes I thought might be necessary to access the inner area
hole in the pattern and blocks.jpg

With the blocks on, the spreaders could be nailed in their respective positions, flush to the line.
nailing the spreader first.jpg

Here you see them more clearly.
spreaders in position.jpg
spreaders in position (1).jpg

With the sides nailed together is it time to nail on the bending plywood?
Not just yet. Since I will be using titebondII between layers, it may squeeze out. It seemed a good idea to use up some old tinted leftover lacquer to spray the forms so glue would not stick to the sides.

Here is a photo of the first sheet of bending plywood after being ripped on the saw.
a strip of the bending plywood.jpg

And finally a bad shot of the pin nailer shooting 3/4" pins into the bending ply.
nailing the first lamination.jpg

A board was cut as a guide for nailing. Here you see me applying pressure to the stick. I pushing the ply to the spreader with the stick, which is also my guide for where to nail. Each time I lined the stick up with the previously marked lines on the jig denoting the center of the spreaders, for the nailing.
 
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The first layer of ply was 8' long and left that length. I just ran it wild, long on both ends, and nailed it to my form. Here are several pictures from the backside (what will be the top of the arch).
view between the spreaders.jpg
view between the spreaders (1).jpg

In the next two pictures we see the termination point of the second layer of plywood.
Showing the second layer.jpg
Showing the second layer (1).jpg

I used the radial arm for my cuts.
Arch and parallelagram 002.jpg

Once the first layer was attached (Pin nailed) I mixed some titebond II in a bucket with water, about 20 glue to 1 water :dunno: so that I could brush it on easier. After a dry fit and a registration mark I took a 4" brush and painted layer #1 while it was bent and nailed in place. Then layer #2 was painted with the glue, then #1 was touched up in the more dry areas then #2 was dabbed again and installed. This time I used 3/4" staples shot on a bit of an angle as they were too long otherwise. As it ended up I still had to file some of the points which came through on the back side, no big deal with a good file.
 
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The third layer was then attached with 1 1/4" pin nails, after several dry fitting sessions, which I intended to extract from the backside with end nippers. For this layer I used some bending plywood which I had laying around. It had colors more closely related to the Western Red Cedar I would be using for trim. Here is a photo of it.

Bending ply, a different type.jpg

These 2 pics of that plywood (inserted) show the blue tape on the edges protecting the finished surface from glue.

third layer.jpg
third layer (1).jpg

Having reached this point, it was time to add the top shelf which was to be the diameter of the arch.
"Where is it?:huh: It should be here! :dunno: Oh..That's right, I did not cut it yet." :doh: I needed to have an exact width, only acquired after the curved part of the arch was set in the form. Width differs from depth in this case.:)
 
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cool shaz

i woulda loved one of those when i was a kid, i could play for hours in there with my hotwheels...:D

lookin good. say, how long, in real time has it taken you to get to this point in the project?

thanks
chris
 
its all in the jig.

Hi Allen :wave:,
You are right! It is all in the jigs. If you want to make money, figure out how to sell multiples of that thing you spent hours creating. It is the jig, or pattern that allows you to reproduce multiples with accuracy in reproduction. I get paid "per one".:dunno::D I'm okay with that.

Cool, Shaz. It's starting to take shape. Thanks for continuing with the posts. :thumb:
Hi Vaughn :wave:,
So nice to hear you are following this. It is quite the compliment, knowing how busy you are and your focus on turning. Thanks, S :)

cool shaz

i woulda loved one of those when i was a kid, i could play for hours in there with my hotwheels...:D

Hi Chris :wave:, I hear that, we would have had some great times had we been neighbors!:D

lookin good. say, how long, in real time has it taken you to get to this point in the project?

I think to this point in time I had about 16 hours in.
It started with
#1 figuring out the arch from the paper template, have coffee,:D
#2 deciding the proper way to construct the form in which to build the arch, (the arch is basically the result of the form. It becomes an arch because of the guidelines it is forced to follow. The arch in this case is only as good as the pattern it is forced into. Realize that this form is more important than the arch. I use good material to make my forms/jigs. The arch will only be as good as the form.)
#3 laying out the form, the arches from a radius point, imagine how the arch fits on top of the cabinet and how to attach it,:huh:
#4 cutting the holes in the form to access the arch from the sides,
#5 ripping the bending board and
#6 the 3/4"x3/4" blocks for nailers.
#6a go to the bathroom,:rolleyes:
#7 Then there was the crosscutting of the blocks and the determination of their placement and how to nail into them when they were hidden by the bending board.
So many little things that take up little blocks of time. Once finished, with the solutions figured out, I can see reproducing this arch to this point in about 6 to 10 hours from scratch, new jig, new everything. That is where as Allen said " it is all in the jig!" hits the nail on the head. Having figured this all out, reproduction takes half the time and less as the multiples increase.

thanks
chris

That is funny I don't care who you are.:rofl:
Hi Scott :wave:,
Creative mind for sure! I agree very funny and I laughed and I laughed.
Shaz :)
 
The third layer was then attached with 1 1/4" pin nails, (after several dry fitting sessions,) and the same glue up method. Those protruding points, from the 1 1/4" nails will be extracted from the backside with end nippers.
Having reached this point, it was time to add the top shelf which was to be the diameter of the arch.
"Where is it?:huh: It should be here! :dunno: Oh..That's right, I did not cut it yet." :doh: I needed to have an exact width, only acquired after the curved part of the arch was set in the form.

Sometimes it is good to re-itterate, as above.
Assembled next is a sequence of photos, starting with
#1 the product ripped
Cuttings ripped.jpg

#2 a cut list in a 2 dimensional drawing with numbers.
a cut list picture.jpg

#3 cutting off the factory end plus a little for the knot,
cut off factory end.jpg

#4 showing my need for an accurate starting point from which to start the measurement,
starting point 1.jpg

#5 The measured length of the side wall is 69 1/16" shy.
length of the sides.jpg

#6 using a stop block for multiple pieces
stop block 1.jpg

#7 This picture shows measured and marked, the width for the top shelf. Once this has been cut, using the stop block, we can
measured and marked, width of shelf.jpg

#8 use 2 pieces of wood, same thickness as the side walls, laid up against the stop block, to determine the length of all the other shelves, without the use of the ruler.
minus the 2 walls, (sides).jpg

#9 Here are the pieces and the drawing.
all the pieces.jpg

#10 And one more close up of the pieces for the lower cabinet.
all the pieces close up.jpg
Shaz :)
 
Let us take a look at this photo.
all the pieces close up (2).jpg

As can be seen the
#1 arch is built, :rolleyes: in the picture. :)
#2 The blue denoted top shelf is cut and marked "A"
a. This is the 39 3/4" shelf that is the diameter of thd arch.
#3 Five shelves, marked in red, "B" are all cut, one after the other using the stop block and 2 pieces of wood...
(#8 from last post) use 2 pieces of wood, same thickness as the
side walls,
laid up against the stop block, to determine the length of all the
other shelves, (in red) without the use of the ruler.


#4 And last are the 2 longest pieces, "C" the sides.
 
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