Steel snake help

I had to look this up on the Web Chuck, had never heard of it. My input would be to say it looks critical to have as low as possible friction at the joints. They should move freely without binding. One material choice would be disks made from a plastic cutting board (Super High Density Polyethylene Plastic), the kitchen type. It has low friction, high wear, and is inexpensive.

Like this:

Plastic_Vegetable_Cutting_Board.jpg



Link here.
 
[size=+1]Okay, I'll bite. What's a steel snake, Chuck?

I tried Google, but all I got was jewelry ads and something about Maylasian boats... [/size]
 
Chuck, I used silicone bronze washers from Fastenal. I think thrust bearings would work better in the joints. I will see if I can find the web site again and post it for you. Good luck with the build.
 
I have some 1" UHMW rod. Not hard like the high density but equally tough and almost purely friction free. You could slice and drill to make your own washers. If you want a hunk, PM me your address and I'll send.
 
Chuck, and all, I have built one of the steel snake. I received a message from Bill Bohlen and he used these bearings. The look like they would work well. I think when I can get to it I may upgrade from the thrust washers that I used to these bearings. My snake works very well, but never having used a commercially produced unit I can't compare. I have a thread on my unit here
http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9914&highlight=capt+eddies+steel+snake :D
 
I have some 1" UHMW rod. Not hard like the high density but equally tough and almost purely friction free. You could slice and drill to make your own washers. If you want a hunk, PM me your address and I'll send.

Frank Thank you very much PM being sent.

Wayne,
Excellent thanks for all the help.

Chuck
 
Vaughn,

Thanks. Pretty cool addition to the turning tools. It was hard for me to clearly hear the person showing the tool. Is the top-most bar that is above and inline with the toll equipped with a laser to show location of the tool relatively on the outside of the form? I'm assuming this is adjusted so the laser is on the leading edge of whatever cutter is installed??

Thanks again,
 

Frank,
I want to thank you again for the rod & I have a few more questions if you don't mind.

I love your version of the snake but I'm a little confused on your pics.


1. Are those just bolts & lock washers you used?

2. Is that aluminum rod you used to hold the cutting tools?

3. The steel I got doesn't look like the one you used what type is it? I got mild steel.

4. I'm having a hard time figuring out how it's held in the tail stock? Did you purchase a MT2 part somewhere & held it into the tool by set screws?

I'm sorry for all of the questions but I would like to get the best material I can afford to make the snake.

Any links you can supply me to the vendors you used I would appreciate it greatly.

Thanks again for your help.

Chuck.

P.S. the reason I want/need to get the best material I can afford is I want to make a Urn for our dogs ashes we had her for 17 yrs & she deserves the best I can do. I have a piece of 6" square x 9" long Bubinga & I don't want to mess up this expensive piece of wood.
 
Hi Chuck,

I would first like to express my heartfelt condolences on the loss of your dog. I feel blessed every day with my cats and understand you completely on your desire to show respect for your dog with your artisanship and the choice of wood.

The photographs I posted were found on the Web, I don’t have a steel snake, but will add my observations on what I have gathered from my search.

I think there are two areas of greatest importance to designing and using a steel snake; smooth movement of the joints, and stability of the tool’s arms. Let’s discuss both below:

This post from Sawmill Creek discusses the importance of the bearings used in the joints. Personally, I think this is the most critical element. Without the lowest coefficient of friction at the joints, the tool will “jerk” and be hard to control. The post gives suggestions as to the choices of joint elements, I suggested Super High Density Polyethylene Plastic before, but that is a “work around”.

As to the material for the arms, I think you have a broader choice of materials, any of which will give you stability, which is what you are looking for. I have been very happy with Speedy Metals for their prices, quick shipping, and customer service.

Holding the snake in the tailstock is a function of the shape of the distal end of the tool. Stan’s Elbotool clamps to the tailstock, a comment says a morse-taper attachment would be better, and I agree.

I should also point out the importance of a clean, smooth surface on your toolrest.

The following are other sites that sell or discuss the tool:
Stan Townend’s Elbotool
American Association of Woodturners forum

Chuck, With all that being said, is a steel snake the best, or only tool suitable for hollowing? I don’t think so. If you search Family Woodworking for urn you may get some additional ideas or techniques that may be better choices.

I hope this discussion helps, please respond if I can add additional insight.

Frank
 
Chuck:The pics of the snake are of my unit. I must say that Frank sure nailed it!! I Heartily agree with everything he said. In answer to your question the mount I used was just an m2 arbor from my beahl buffing system. Dilled a 5/8" hole in the rear of the first 1" steel square stock and inserted the morse taper. A 1/4" set screw was drilled and tapped. I replaced the nylon washers (white washer) in the pics with iexpensive thrust bearings I finally found on the net. Made quite the difference in the smoothness of operation. I use a 12" round tool rest with the snake. The steel used for the bit holders is from HomeDepot and is just a mild steel 5/8" rod. All my drilled holes except for the set screws are 5/8". Just trying to make things as simple as possible. Any additional question just pm again. Happy to help out any way I can...Bill..
Just a side note: I recently removed the shaft from my Sorby gooseneck hollowing tool and mounted it to the snake. Works great and it even had the 3/4" shaft machined down where it mounts in the handle to the 5/8" size I had chosen for my tool mount! Just plain dumb luck but it was a nice surprize!
 
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Oh Bill, thank you so much for helping out! :thumb:

Because I had only seen your system on the Web, I was doing my best to analyze it through "Web-Based-Reverse-Engineering".

Thank you very much!
 
Frank, your "reverse engineering" is spot on! You would make a heck-of-a-machinest if you ever chose a career change!...Bill..
 
Guys I would like to thank you very much for all of your help I appreciate immensely.

Frank,
Your correct she has given us nothing but unconditional love for 17 yrs & she deserves the absolute best that I can achieve.

Thank you again for your help & also the links.

Chuck
 
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