Thinking of the New Table Saw Placement.....

Stuart Ablett

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I've not got the saw yet, or finished the job, but as I'm laid up with the busted foot, I have been crashing my computer with Sketch Up :doh:

I guess I need a new computer as well... :rolleyes:

Anyway, this is the basic set up I've come up with.

Remember, I work in a Dungeon, everything come down the hatch in the ceiling :wave:

Dungeon_shot1.jpg Dungeon_shot3.jpg
Not everything is in the model, but most of it is.

Now the jointer is under the main worktable the takes up the center of the workshop, I plan on moving the jointer under the SCMS, I'll have to build some steel brackets that will be anchored to the concrete wall for the SCMS to sit on, as I think the jointer will have to almost directly under the SCMS. :dunno:

I'm also thinking of moving the Router table into the wing on the table saw. I'd get the saw with the 50" rails, and orientate the saw as shown, this way, I can get the long rails and use the saw fence for the router table as well, and free up some space, I'd move the 14" bandsaw to the spot the router table is in now, and leave Big Blue by the cyclone.

The planer would go under the SCMS to the right. I'd also build a bit of a table around the tablesaw to the left of the blade and maybe even a bit behind the saw too, dunno, depends on space.

I have the Festool TS55 for ripping up sheet goods, and I very seldom rip anything long, as long stuff is just not used much hear, as most of the homes are small.

I would have about 6' behind the blade, as the line of site behind the blade would be right under the stairs.

Well, what do you think?
 
Since I got my EZ Smart guide, I find that I rarely try to manhandle the 4x8 sheet's of ply on my tablesaw anymore.

I put the longer rails on my grizz 1023, but I'm seriously thinking of removing them, putting the short rails back on, and saving a bit on shop space.

If you've got the festool setup to take care of sheet goods, and a miter saw setup, I'm not exactly sure what the extended rails do.

I find that most of the time I'm using that space for 'setting stuff down', which just means I have to spend more time putting stuff away.

Size wize, I think I'm in about the same boat as you, with maybe a little more space, but I've got more non-woodworking junk I store as well.

So, not sure what I'm trying to say, but the question is, "Is there a reason to have the long rails with all the other tools you have, other than the fact that they are long?". You could have your router table setup and still share the fence with a shorter table.

Myself, I'm starting to question that when my saw guide basically gives me a portable panel cutter already....
 
Good questions Brent, that is why I posted this here.

I was actually thinking of setting up two routers in tables on either side of the tablesaw, this would give me the ability to make door fairly easy, and having two router tables seems like a not bad idea....... :dunno:

That would be the only real reason for the longer rails, I could offset them to the left of the blade, this would give me plenty of room on either side of the blade, and the ability to use the fence on either router table, I might even pick up a second fence for making doors.

Cheers!
 
Dueling Router tables would be cool :thumb:

Specially one for stiles and one for rails.

So if you have the room it makes sense.

The question is do you really need 50" rails to do that?

I've got no vested interest, of course, just trying to save you some space/expense.

I'm finding as I put more machines and tables for machines in my shop, assembly space gets more scarce.

But then again, I'm kind of a pack rat, so any available space seems to accumulate stuff at a farily rapid rate.


My problem is that I'm an Incra jig kind of guy, so my router table kind of requires it's own dedicated cabinet.
 
...My problem is that I'm an Incra jig kind of guy, so my router table kind of requires it's own dedicated cabinet.
I am too, but that didn't stop me from putting a router in my table saw. ;) (This pic was taken a little before I was done. The switches aren't attached to the rail, and I hadn't yet installed the diagonal braces that help support the router table extension.) I have another smaller router table top that I could install on the right side of the saw, but don't really have room to use it in my current configuration.

New Incra Jig Setup 1- 700.jpg
 
Ah, back in the shag carpet day eh Vaughn :D

Nice fence set up, how easily does it come off the saw?

As I said, I will be building a bit of a sound table, and when the table saw and the router are not in use, this WILL be my main work table:eek:

Cheers!
 
Ah, back in the shag carpet day eh Vaughn :D

Nice fence set up, how easily does it come off the saw?

As I said, I will be building a bit of a sound table, and when the table saw and the router are not in use, this WILL be my main work table:eek:

Cheers!
Yeah, I don't miss the carpet. :rolleyes: Lot easier to keep clean now.

Stu, the fence, including the cross member, comes off (or goes back on) in about 5 seconds with no tools. Goes back on dead square, too. For router use, I loosen four knobs and slide the whole thing down the rails to the other end. If I ever get a cabinet saw, I expect it'll have an Incra fence on it.

The only disadvantage (from your Dungeon perspective) is the fact that the sliding beam in attached to the middle of the fence sticks out quite a ways when you've got the fence all the way over to the right.
 
Thanks for the info Vaughn, the Incra would be nice, I'm sure, but maybe a bit out of my budget at the moment, but there are two more apartos to renovate :thumb:
 
I've not got the saw yet, or finished the job, but as I'm laid up with the busted foot, I have been crashing my computer with Sketch Up :doh:

I guess I need a new computer as well... :rolleyes:

Well, you may need simpler models.
Try talking with Dave Richards. Send him your *.skp file and I bet he can make a few suggestions how to cut down on it's memory use -- which will make it work easier on the computer.

I bet that you downloaded those tool models (TS, Bandsaw, DP) from the internet? Yeah, I did that also with my shop diagram. Dave pointed out to me that many models on the net are very wasteful of memory. Some are just poorly made, and some just have far too much detail for our purposes. (eg: Really, we just want it to sort-of look like a bandsaw, we don't really need dozens of polygons wasted drawing an accurate handwheel on the back)

I'm also thinking of moving the Router table into the wing on the table saw. I'd get the saw with the 50" rails, and orientate the saw as shown, this way, I can get the long rails and use the saw fence for the router table as well, ...
I have the Festool TS55 for ripping up sheet goods, and I very seldom rip anything long, as long stuff is just not used much hear, as most of the homes are small.

I would have about 6' behind the blade, as the line of site behind the blade would be right under the stairs

Remember that you also need 6' in front of the blade, or you won't be able to use the full 6' behind it!!

I've had 32" rails on my GI 50-185 contractor-style TS for the past 5 years. In all that time, I can think of only 2-3 times when I've wanted a wider rip than the 30-32" I get with my saw. Note that I do not have a Festool (or equivalent) for ripping up sheet goods. I usually have the home center make the first cut when I buy a sheet of 4x8 plywood. Also note that I'm nowhere near as prolific as you are, Stu... :rolleyes:

So, like Brent, I question the need for the 50" rails. Sure, if I had one of these Marty-sized shops, I would probably get it anyway. But my shop is not that far off from your size, Stu. (11x24ish, with some taken up by household storage)

I also do not have my router mounted in the TS wing. I've thought about it, but haven't gone that way. I'm not sure that would make any real difference to my thoughts on the rails, but I really don't know for sure.


hope this helps,
...art
 
Art, I'm VERY sure the most of the models I've downloaded are REALLY way over sized, but they were easy to draw :rolleyes: :D

I'm not sure I need the longer rails either, but they are not much more money, in the grand scheme of things. :dunno:

If I were to shift them so they are basically centered on the blade, then I'd have equal rail on both sides, for two router tables :dunno:

Dunno if that is worth it or not, honestly, that is why I'm here posing the question :D :wave:
 
I have never regretted having my router table as an extension. I keep it on the left to take advantage of the similar feed path of the saw while being able to face the router fence (my preferred feed position). As stated you could do this with long or short rails.

With the GCS, unless you need quick accurate cuts in excess of 30" or so on a regular basis (think kitchens and such) you could save some space with the short rails. 30" on the TS is occasionally too short for me but I have a large sled to take care of that. A GCS would do this as well. Of course you have to store either when not in use.

Overall, I think you are pretty well on your way to a great layout. The only reason I don't say your done is that only you will know when that is ;-)
 
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I am too, but that didn't stop me from putting a router in my table saw. ;) (This pic was taken a little before I was done. The switches aren't attached to the rail, and I hadn't yet installed the diagonal braces that help support the router table extension.) I have another smaller router table top that I could install on the right side of the saw, but don't really have room to use it in my current configuration.
View attachment 24328

Stu,

I did what Vaughn did, only backwards. I wanted 48" to the right of the blade. I got that by putting my router top to the right. Like Vaughn said, it takes less than a minute to reposition the incra fence, but instead of sliding mine down, I flip mine end to end. This means the blade guard stays in place on the 3650. I then stand at the far right end to rout, and the router power switch is attached to that end. It also lets me keep my crosscut sled installed most of the time. The only time I have to take the fence completely off is when I'm crosscutting long pieces, and in those cases, I'm glad for the support.

The shop is 12' wide, so when I'm ripping something more than 6', I have to turn the whole setup 90 degrees... hence the torsion box and casters... Luckily, that's not very often (the thing is darned heavy, and the floor is far from flat). But when I need that space, I *really* need it... ;)

Thanks,

Bill
 
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