Thought on floating wood shop floor

did you try the orange box for a product called dricore comes in 24x 24 in panels is available in canada not sure in your part of the world worth a look


Wayne,

I did look into that system and it's pretty expensive. Somewhere aroud $5/ft not including installation. It is on 5/8 osb although they do say it will carry the load. I can do the 1 1/8" osb for just a little more than a buck a foot not including installation.

Doug
 
Norman now I understand what you are saying about the water based. I will try and find out about the binders in the osb. I know the technology has changed over the years.

As far as filling low spots there are several products that go from a feather edge to say about 1/2"....ardex being one. We have a place out here called Roseburrough tool that have several and they do ship all over the world. But Whitecap carries many different types of levelayer material and I believe they are nationwide. Also there are many companies doing what's called a "stamping overlay" they pour a thin layer of maybe 1/4" over the floor and then stamp and impression in it. most of they product come in 30# to 50# bags of powder and are mixed with water and or hardener.

Doug

Thanks for that info, Doug, as it will give me another option when I get to the floor problem, (I'm saving this thread).:D I kinda have two separate problems with the floor, one area is Low, and two larger areas are HIGH, and I think the Low areas would be easier to fix, since we don't have much in the way of rental grinding equip around here. I have an approx 18" x 18" x 25' channel across the width of my shop for the main DC duct and electrical to the stationary tools and conduit to cross to the south wall for the outlets there. The problem developed when the Concrete Contr didn't have the forms anchored properly toward the south end, and the box type form floated up some, (which would have still been ok) but they just finished the floor to the top of the elevated form instead of holding the slab surface level in that area, so from one end to the other (lengthwise in the shop), the slab has a hump in it and conversely they let it dip down a little toward the north end of the channel for a couple of feet on either side of the channel. The Hump is waaaaay to large to grind down with a hand grinder. It may turn out that the easiest and most practical way will be to install the flooring on sleepers, I just don't know yet.

It kinda seems that I wasted a lot of effort and money by requiring a 5" slab
instead of 4", AND, after they put the wire mesh in, I personally tied in rebar every 2' in both directions, all because I wanted a good strong, level slab, (that I now need to pour more time and money into to get level).:( I am happy to say though that I have had NO cracks develop in the slab, and I was told that ALL the other slabs they poured that month developed MANY cracks and one was so bad it had to be removed and repoured.
 
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Thanks for that info, Doug, as it will give me another option when I get to the floor problem, (I'm saving this thread).:D I kinda have two separate problems with the floor, one area is Low, and two larger areas are HIGH, and I think the Low areas would be easier to fix, since we don't have much in the way of rental grinding equip around here. I have an approx 18" x 18" x 25' channel across the width of my shop for the main DC duct and electrical to the stationary tools and conduit to cross to the south wall for the outlets there. The problem developed when the Concrete Contr didn't have the forms anchored properly toward the south end, and the box type form floated up some, (which would have still been ok) but they just finished the floor to the top of the elevated form instead of holding the slab surface level in that area, so from one end to the other (lengthwise in the shop), the slab has a hump in it and conversely they let it dip down a little toward the north end of the channel for a couple of feet on either side of the channel. The Hump is waaaaay to large to grind down with a hand grinder. It may turn out that the easiest and most practical way will be to install the flooring on sleepers, I just don't know yet.

It kinda seems that I wasted a lot of effort and money by requiring a 5" slab
instead of 4", AND, after they put the wire mesh in, I personally tied in rebar every 2' in both directions, all because I wanted a good strong, level slab, (that I now need to pour more time and money into to get level).:( I am happy to say though that I have had NO cracks develop in the slab, and I was told that ALL the other slabs they poured that month developed MANY cracks and one was so bad it had to be removed and repoured.

Norman do you have any pictures you could post of your floor? I would like to see exactly what you are talking about. How far out of level, or how high is the hump in your floor? How many square feet are you talking about? There is always a fix.

Doug
 
In California I would worry mostly about termites. I would use moiststop vapor barrier, which is heavy duty plastic and tape it(contractors supply). But before that spray a termite barrier type of insecticide on the concrete. As for the plastic adding moisture it doesn’t, it only makes visible what moisture is there already. If you don’t use a moisture barrier you will get mold, dryrot, and other bad things.
 
Norman do you have any pictures you could post of your floor? I would like to see exactly what you are talking about. How far out of level, or how high is the hump in your floor? How many square feet are you talking about? There is always a fix.

Doug


Doug, sorry to be so late with this reply, but I somehow missed this post & have been in and out of town some. I don't have any pictures at this time, and have so much stuff stacked in the middle of the shop right now so I can work around the perimeter walls framing in between the metal framing and hanging wallboard that I can't get to it until I get the walls finished, which is going really slow working by myself and with the back problems. (I plan to post some pics of the walls framing, etc. when I get finished). At that time, I will get rid of all the leftover construction materials and "Other Stuff" that won't remain in the shop and then get pictures AND measurements of the floor, and I'll repost, or PM you for your suggestions. I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge, as there have been so many new methods and products since I worked with concrete in my younger years.

Have you made any progress on your flooring solution?
 
hey doug,

sounds like quite a job, but i totally understand the hurting feet..i think i just got used to it after a few months. unless i was up and down a ladder alot they didn't hurt anymore.

how about a thinner plywood, 3/4" subfloor maybe, it might have more give than even the osb if your using the 1-1/8" osb. maybe a test with each type of sheeting. get a few friends to give their opinion on which has the most give. just a thought.

good luck
 
hey doug,

sounds like quite a job, but i totally understand the hurting feet..i think i just got used to it after a few months. unless i was up and down a ladder alot they didn't hurt anymore.

how about a thinner plywood, 3/4" subfloor maybe, it might have more give than even the osb if your using the 1-1/8" osb. maybe a test with each type of sheeting. get a few friends to give their opinion on which has the most give. just a thought.

good luck

Well Chris I think my feet are just going to have to hurt. I think I'm going to have to pass on doing the floor. With the slumping economy and the cost of the floor it just doesn't pencil out. Not to mention all the down time. The finishing cost is pretty horrendous too.

Doug
 
Doug, sorry to be so late with this reply, but I somehow missed this post & have been in and out of town some. I don't have any pictures at this time, and have so much stuff stacked in the middle of the shop right now so I can work around the perimeter walls framing in between the metal framing and hanging wallboard that I can't get to it until I get the walls finished, which is going really slow working by myself and with the back problems. (I plan to post some pics of the walls framing, etc. when I get finished). At that time, I will get rid of all the leftover construction materials and "Other Stuff" that won't remain in the shop and then get pictures AND measurements of the floor, and I'll repost, or PM you for your suggestions. I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge, as there have been so many new methods and products since I worked with concrete in my younger years.

Have you made any progress on your flooring solution?

Norman keep me informed of your progress and if you want anymore help just let me know. As I posted the cost of the floor is prohibitive so I'm going to pass on doing it. I'll have to put my efforts in too finishing the remodel of the shop.

Doug
 
Shop Floor

Doug:
My shop is pretty old and only 16x 22. It sits on a slab,I layed down 4 mill polly and then nailed 2x2 on 16" centers. Then 3/4 plywood ring nailed to the 2x2s Told you it was old (now would have use tap-cons onthe 2x2s and Deck screws on the plywood. At the time I tiled over the plywood. After a number of years the tile went bad and I came across a good buy on laminet flooring. It is a light oak color. So it reflects the light well and is a breeze to clean. Have been very happy with it for the past several years. Living in Minnesota we get all kinds of weather so far so good.:thumb:
 
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