Turned Salt Boxes

Let's bring it over here for a bit. The WS ones are finished in oil. What kind would you folks think is appropriate; mineral, danish, etc?
 
I think so Jim. Lots has been said about food-safe finishes, but here we are fighting the caustic effects of salt. The outside could be anything that looks nice, but, as above, we would have to finish the inside so the salt doesn't react with it.
 
Hmmm, I was going to use a friction polish on the outside. Seems simple enough.

For the inside, I was just going to leave unfinished. I'll sand it up to 320 to get it nice and smooth.

Was just headed out to the garage to look for some suitable wood.

I'm thinking though that I'll probably have to do a glue up...
 
Making boxes on the lathe is probably my favorite thing to do. When I plan on using them for food, I leave the inside unfinished.

I use boxes for everything from loose tea and herbs to sugar or vitamins.

On the outside, I use my favorite finish, or can use your favorite as well.
 
Why this didn't strike me is beyond me Ron.
I'm still in the skill enhancement phase, and these are perfect for finishing, hollowing, and fabrication skills.
Those are some really great ideas Ron and I agree with unfinished, but would salt pick-up moisture and warp the unfinished interior of a salt box?
 
I'm starting to get into the box mode. But I can't figure out how to get the smell of the wood out if used for food purposes. My english walnut is very fragrant, one would think salt, tea or herbs will take on the scent. Any ideas on how to neutralize the scent/oder? :bonkers:
 
I haven't placed salt in a box yet, but I would think it shouldn't be a problem.

A box with a good fitting lid is air tight so moisture form the outside shouldn't be able to enter.

Like all boxes, the wood should be dry before finish turning them. Even though there is still some moisture in the wood I'm guessing it shouldn't be a problem. I'm going to have to give this a try.

Imparting flavors can be a concern. I would never make a box from camphor that will be used with food. Having your food taste like Vick's Vapor Rub would be horrible. I've had success with maple, elm, birch and Russian olive. With bubinga, black walnut, and cherry, I kept the lid off for a month or two and when it passed the sniff test I deemed it usable. The bottom line is you need to pick the right wood. Just because aromatic cedar looks nice doesn't mean you should use it with food.

I've also used wax on the inside to seal out the wood's smell. Kiwi clear shoe polish at one time contained Montan wax (harder than carnuba). Lately, I stated using "Turtle Wax Platinum Series Paste Wax" which contains both carnuba and montan wax. Once it passes the sniff test I feel comfortable using it with food.

BTW, I also love to cook.
 
Great hints Ron. I like the idea of a wax interior, and I agree they can be air tight. I'm thinking two set of magnets would really make it close tight.

I love to cook also, but to keep my shop from getting an inferiority complex, I am buying as many tools for the shop as I have in the kitchen.
 
Let's see if we can find a cooking forum we can join! :rofl: I'm the main cook in the house and wouldn't have it any other way, it's just another way to bleed off stress and be creative.
My brother (flatworker) made a square salt box out of maple with a walnut interior several years ago that we use to this day. No finish on the inside that I was able to detect, with a friction fit lid. I have never had a moisture problem...guessing the wood absorbs the moisture from the salt, kind of a pressure gradient thing. Would bee's wax work on the inside?
 
The boxes I make use a mortise and tenon fit. I like to make them so I can pop off the lid while holding them in one hand.

I would think bees wax will work, but because it is soft it would wear off quickly and may be to be reapplied.

Barbara, I never worked with Paulownia, but I hear it is very stable and "warp resistant". This may be a good choice.
 

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Let's see if we can find a cooking forum we can join! :rofl: I'm the main cook in the house and wouldn't have it any other way, it's just another way to bleed off stress and be creative.

Ditto Jim....

I'm doing a glue up of some maple and cherry (I think). Just need to figure out an interesting way of putting it all together before turning.

Since Salt is so hygroscopic, I'd think that any moisture in the wood would be gone in no time. Maple seems pretty neutral (Very little smell, unless I burn it on the table saw blade or drum sander) so I think it'd be a good choice.

Ron, Thanks for all the great tips!
 
A continued great conversation and a great looking box Ron.
I'll guess cooking skills translate to woodworking skills, according to us, and hey, we are the experts right?

I'm going to try one today with some beautiful quarter sawed cherry blanks I bought on eBay. While they are still a bit 'moist' I can get started and they do finish beautifully.

These are 4" round by 3" thick blanks, around $4 each:
(The seller is riverridgesawmill)
 

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I'm going to try one today with some beautiful quarter sawed cherry blanks I bought on eBay. While they are still a bit 'moist' I can get started and they do finish beautifully.


The majority of the time I start with green wood, rough it out, let it dry, then turn to finish. When I start with "dry" wood I do the same.

Also, the best grain orientation to use is having the lid end grain. Quarter-sawn will act like a bowl and will move.
 
Making boxes on the lathe is probably my favorite thing to do. When I plan on using them for food, I leave the inside unfinished.
Same here. I made a box from locust that we use for churning butter. Three years and still going.

Another option is shellac if you want to try sealing it up. It's safe to eat (used for pill coatings).

-Joe
 
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