trestle table base idea

Chris Mire

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looking for input on this idea for a base for a trestle table. instead of a mortise and tenon joining the pieces together, i was thinkin off a giant dovetail, kinda like the one tod helped marty with for the bell hanger at his shop. the question is...

1. do you think it would be a strong enough joint.

2. does it look good from a design stand point.

after i drew it and pfd'd it i got to thinking maybe it needs two uprights instead of one. :dunno:

so what say the panel??

chris


View attachment trestle base.pdf
 
looking for input on this idea for a base for a trestle table. instead of a mortise and tenon joining the pieces together, i was thinkin off a giant dovetail, kinda like the one tod helped marty with for the bell hanger at his shop. the question is...

1. do you think it would be a strong enough joint.

2. does it look good from a design stand point.

after i drew it and pfd'd it i got to thinking maybe it needs two uprights instead of one. :dunno:
Chris,

I don't see how you could have any stronger joint than you've drawn, but it doesn't appeal to me from a design standpoint. There are plenty of places for dovetails, but I don't think this in one of them.

Also, are you planning "pads" of some dimension under the ends of the feet? That area looks heavy now, but the pads would make it appear lighter.

If this is to be a dining table, one upright will work better from the standpoint of using the table. There will be more freedom of movement under the table.
 
bill, i probably would do pads, just forgot to draw it in. ...
That's what I assumed. The attached photo shows the profile of how I did the pads on my compass table. After considering some options, I used adjustable feet that can't really be seen (unless you're on the floor after a few barley brews!) In my case, I installed a fixed pad under the center column, then one adjustable pad on each of the four feet.
:)
 

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I'm new here (Hi to all), so take this for what it's worth. I don't know the dimensions of your base, but it looks like it is a 4x4 or 6x6 base. I don't see any way that one upright would work. You'll need two with a spreader between them. I personally think the dovetail would look good providing you use contrasting colors on the parts. If this is more of an "eating nook" type (small top) of table then maybe a cross-piece at the bottom would work. Russ
 
hey russ, welcome...don't hesitate to chime in, how long you've been here has no influence on how i feel about your views or opinions...and i think most everyone feels the same.

this would be a dining table, not sure of the exact size yet, it will be custom fit to my new dining room when the house is done.

the dimensions of each piece as it is drawn is 2"x4".

i really don't want to use contrasting colors because the wife will need to like it and she tends to like things all one color or species.

stu, i feel the same. it is mostly just an idea that i wanted feedback on, i thought of it and thought surely someone else has thought of this, but why have i never seen it.


thanks for the input
 
I've seen a couple of workbenches elsewhere of late, which featured a lapped dovetail for the jointery on the stretcher for the legs. Pop woodworking if I recall correctly. There's no reason to use contrasting tones if SWMBO lines single tones.
 
Dove tail?

I don't think a dove tail is the best joint for this use. It doesn't have good strength in the longitudinal direction, it becomes a sliding dove tail (great as a drawer slide). A trestle table's base needs to handle forces and moments in all directions (e.g. left, right, forward, backward, up, down, twist, tipping...). A single dove tail doesn't provide good support in all these directions. A second unit, with spreader will help, but still not as good as the traditional M&T joint, or even a screwed and glued joint.

If you want some design interest you might try an M&T with through dowels or treenails. Or fasten the stretcher with through M&T's with keeper wedges.

Dick
 
... I don't see any way that one upright would work. You'll need two with a spreader between them. ...
A single upright is commonly used for trestle tables. Google "trestle table" and look at the variety. Norm and David have built them with one upright on each end and I think they kinda have it together. :thumb:
 
yup, i think a mortise-n-tennon offers much more strength here and i like to make my feet slightly thicker than the riser.
I agree with Tod but would add one thing. Since the opposing side of the M&T joints will be located where they aren't seen, you have the option of adding screws to pull the M&T together and strengthen the joint even further.

Also, adding some shape to the uprights would be a good design detail; i.e., flare the top and bottom a bit, making it narrower in the center and wider on the ends.
 
tod, makes sense thanks

bill, just guessing but i think russ meant that one wouldn't work in this application, maybe not with the m&t joint.

i agree that a flared riser would be nice in most applications and is an option, however i tend to lean more towards straight lines in pieces, not that i don't like curves just my preference most times
 
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