Mahogony finishing...

Jason Vanick

Member
Messages
25
Location
Cary, IL
I'm going to be starting my first foray into finishing Mahogony... the pieces i have are quite red with beautiful grain patterns.

I know to use grain filler... but what's next? Does somebody have a good description for somebody that's VERY green at finishing wood?

My previous experience has been just using the minwax poly-stain products... the piece i'm building is too nice for such basic treatment, so i'd like to do something new.

I have scrap to play on, so I'm not scared about trying something new.

I'd like to do something to bring the reds through, as well as enhance the grain.

-J
 
A lot of folks are more knowledgeable about finishing than I am, but I've done a couple of items. I recently finished a mantel top I made from mahogany. The first step was some Transtint dye to tone down the redness a bit. I sealed the dye with a couple of coats of dewaxed shellac. Next, I applied two coats of waterborne sealer and then topcoated with two coats of waterborne conversion varnish. Looks great.
 
Wgat are use going to use for a finish? Different finishes need diferent steps. I use oil mostly and will sand the wood to around 320 for the first coat and 600 for the second coat. This will leave a glass smooth finish.
 
Honestly I'm not sure what final finish I want to use... that's part of the advice I'm looking for.

I'd like a very smooth either semi-gloss finish. The top on the table I'm building will be corian, the legs and rails are what need finishing.

-J
 
Tod must be busy installing these days. He was working on a very large overhead thing for a window seat last time I was at his shop. Beautiful. Don't know how he handles a lot of that stuff by himself. But, I digress. :eek:
 
i`m here:eek:.....been busy
i really need more information on what the wood in question is being used for and what type of equipment and experience the finisher has to work with.
whether or not fumes from the finish curing will cause problems...etc..

for the o/p on legs-n-apron of a corian topped table i`d suggest a solvent based gym floor poly applied with a good brush, thin the first and maybe second coats 50% then lightly sand and apply full strength successive coats sanding between coats untill the desired luster is achieved......
now for folks with spray equipment the whole drill changes `cause i really hate poly:eek:
 
tod, what do you think of Tung oil rubbed in, maybe 2 coats with plenty of drying time, and something like Waterlox Tung/poly mix 2-3 coats for a tabletop? No spray equipment, very limited, almost non existant experience in finishing any wood besides splashing on Epinfanes or McCloskeys marine varnish.)
 
what kind of table allen?.......if it`s going to be used then that finish will offer very little protection.........but it`s easy to apply and looks great.
 
what kind of table allen?.......if it`s going to be used then that finish will offer very little protection.........but it`s easy to apply and looks great.

main dining table, mahogany, and its going to get more use than any other piece of furniture in the house.
What hard gloss finish is best?(Id love to put one of those high gloss gym floor shine on it, Id purchase any brand that is applicable with a brush,pad or rag)
 
Last edited:
best?.......probably a conversion varnish;) (spray application)
to not answer your question another way when i use poly which is very rarely i just go to the borg and get varathane in the oil based formula....
please understand that i don`t use poly often enough to be versed in any of the latest chemistry advances, i know that the oil based stuff that`s fresh works as well as any polyurethane ever does, that`s why i buy my once every 4-5yr one gal purchase from the borg...i figure they move the stuff quicker than a real paint store.
maybe somebody with more experience with poly will chime in for you?
 
See the earlier posts on this forum... an awesome Mahogany table that was first finished with oil, which got too dark, then refinished with shellac, blah, (post 15 of this thread) then refinished with about 10 coats of Target Ultima Spray Lacquer. (post 16). I believe no filler was used. Sam later added a couple coats of Target water base conversion varnish for a harder finish but it didn't change the look.

http://www.familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?p=110368&postcount=16

I normally spray gloss USL, with the first few coats treated as filler and sanding sealer. When done, if I want a softer finish, machine sand to 600 for satin, or to 800/1000 for semi-gloss. A couple other woodworkers have told me that USL also brushes well, but the batteries must be dead in my paintbrush... I have to move the brush by hand, so I use a spray gun instead.
 
IM honored that you would show me a picture of that table.
The two men working on that piece have forgotten 5 times more about woodworking and finishing than I even know at this point.
I am building this is an open garage, no spray equipment, and zero experience.
I dont even know the differences between all the Varathanes, varnishes, lacquers, polyurethanes, not a clue.
If I could make a table that looked like that, well, enough said.(Id be a king amongst woodworkers to say the least)
I appreciate the input. I really do.
 
Allen, you have a couple of pro's giving you some advice!

Just a confirmation from someone with lesser ability and experience, you can brush on an excellent finish. You just need to do more leveling (sanding between coats). My wife and I have both done it. In a couple recent projects we used General Finishes Polyacrylic (a water based product). It was judged by Fine Woodworking in a review of waterborne finishes to be the best brushable finish. I am not suggesting Polyacrylic for the top of a table. I don't know if it would not work, I just have not looked into it. I used it on some cabinets and also on some bookshelves. The bookshelves get a lot of abrasive action and have held up well, but you need to also consider heat, light acids and other potential abuses. I have also used their product High Performance Polyurethane. It is their most durable water based product. It worked well for me.

The key for us was using a special brush. I will get the information and a picture of the brush we used when I get home tonight. You will really need to watch the temperature of your shop. Room temperature has a big impact in your results (in my limited experience). Considering the time of year, I would recommend moving the finishing inside the house.
 
Last edited:
The person who sold me the wood, also suggested I spray on the finish.
I explained my situation, and he went on to tell me to get some 600 grit sandpaper, carefully but lightly sand in between each coat of varnish I put on, suggested I put on a minimum of at least 4-5.
I questioned him about what I saw someone in his place putting on tables, an outdoor marine varnish, and he told me I could go with that also.

Bill, I cannot thank the top notch talent here enough for sharing their thoughts on finishing.
Cant get that in a book.
Next time any of the pros are around Long Island, Id be thrilled if they want to hang out and Ill put up the burgers and steaks on the grill.
(be warned, my grilling is worse than my woodworking)
But I know how to keep beer cold.
 
Last edited:
The person who sold me the wood, also suggested I spray on the finish.
I explained my situation, and he went on to tell me to get some 600 grit sandpaper, carefully but lightly sand in between each coat of varnish I put on, suggested I put on a minimum of at least 4-5.

600 grit? Holy clogged sandpaper Batman! I have a hard enough time with 400 grit between coats.

Next time any of the pros are around Long Island, Id be thrilled if they want to hang out and Ill put up the burgers and steaks on the grill.
(be warned, my grilling is worse than my woodworking)
But I know how to keep beer cold.

Hope that also applies to me Allen (the offer not the pro status)! I am all over the place. Just point me to the grill, you just take care of the beer. I like them with some body to them. No light beer for me (maybe a hearty micro or a bottled Newcastle Ale , just ask Larry Merlau. I promise not to suck down all the good stuff...like some people.;):D
 
Allen, this link should take you to a 3" Golden Taklon Wash Brush that was recommended in a magazine article for waterborne finishes. www.misterart.com/store/view/000/group_id/7815/SILVER-BRUSH-Sterling-6014S-Blend-Wash-Brush.htm . I got this brush for much less but I can not find the link or it went up some.

Homestead Finishing www.homesteadfinishing.com also sells a similar brush, but their website is not working right now. This is Jeff Jewitts commercial website and is a great source for finishing information.

I can understand Sam Blasco not using filler on that beautiful wood, but my understanding with open pore wood is you generally use a filler. But since I have not finished any mahogany I will bow down to the superior knowledge and experience of others.

Just a side note on all of this. I have a link in my favorites (Finishing folder) that has been there for some time. It is an excellent primer on finishing. Actually it is pointing to his reasons for going waterborne, but he points toward his primer in this link. Here it is: www.plesums.com/wood/tips/waterbase.html . You might notice the name. Yes it is a link to Charlie Plesums' website. We really do have a wealth of experienced information here!
 
Top