drill press & Bandsaw table

I have a very basic table on my saw, I looked, but I did not see a post about it, maybe I missed that one:huh: :dunno:

I'll take a few shots and post tonight about it.

It is very basic but works fine.

Cheers!
 
I fabbed up my own fence for my Gilliom Bandsaw...you know one of those bandsaws you make from a kit. Anyway I used a fence from an old tablesaw and grafted it onto the bandsaw table. I don't have a picture of it though.:doh:
 
OK Larry, here you go...........

dp_table_1.jpg
Here is the basic table, I used two 15mm thick pieces of plywood, glued together.

dp_table_3.jpg dp_table_2.jpg
Before I glued the two pieces of plywood together, I drilled holes and inserted four bolts, this way I had an easy way to attach the auxiliary table to the steel table on the drill press.

dp_table_5.jpg
Here is the router set I bought from Rockler to make the "T-slots", I've used these many times, a very useful purchase :thumb:

dp_table_4.jpg dp_table_6.jpg
You can see the simple fence I made, and the back side of it, works well, took minutes to make.

dp_table_7.jpg
The sacrificial insert is 10cm x 10cm I drilled the holes on the corners to make it easier to take the insert out.

dp_table_8.jpg dp_table_9.jpg
You can rotate the insert to give you a fresh bit to drill into.

dp_table_10.jpg
You can also swing the table a bit to one side to use another fresh space on the insert..............
 
One last pic, I just wanted to mention this, I did not put any finish on the table, I figured this is really a "prototype" so why bother.......... I'll most likely use if for years to come :rolleyes: :D

I do a fair bit of metal work as well, and instead of removing the table each time I want to drill some steel, and use cutting oil, and to keep the mess at bay, I have a small lid from a cookie tin.........

dp_table_11.jpg
.......simple, easy and cheap, I like it :thumb:
 
Stuart you continue to impress me with your shop capabilities.

I really like your simple, functional, design and your clever use of a cookie tin lid to capture metal filings. Do you, or have you, thought to stick a magnet on the outside of the tin to help capture the filings; and can be removed when it is time to dump the filings?
 
Thanks everyone for their input. Stuart that is exactly what I'm looking for, I appreciate the time and trouble you went to to post it. Now all I need is the same type table with a fence for my Bandsaw.
Once again THANK YOU
Larry
 
Well done Stu. I never cease to be amazed by what I learn on this Forum. And it just gets better and better. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to post it. I have this on my to list. I like the idea of adding a magnet.
 
Guys, you are all welcome, I'm just paying this forward, as I too have learned so much on this site and others, I cannot hope to repay the various individuals, but I try to repay the community the best I can.

I did do the magnet thing, it worked, not great but it worked, I've found for the amount of steel I do, the magnet is not really needed. If you do put a magnet on there, think about putting it in a small thick plastic bag, then, when you want to remove the shavings from the magnet, you take the magnet out of the bag, and the shavings will just fall away. Picking sharp shavings off a strong magnet gets old fast DAMHIKT :doh: :rolleyes: :wave:

Cheers!
 
One last pic, I just wanted to mention this, I did not put any finish on the table, I figured this is really a "prototype" so why bother.......... I'll most likely use if for years to come :rolleyes: :D

I do a fair bit of metal work as well, and instead of removing the table each time I want to drill some steel, and use cutting oil, and to keep the mess at bay, I have a small lid from a cookie tin.........

View attachment 25801
.......simple, easy and cheap, I like it :thumb:

SHAMELESS THREAD-JACK!!!

Stu, that idea with the cookie tin lid is great! I always cringe when I have to do metal stuff due to the fuss in cleaning up (I set a magnet nearby but what about the oil???). What a wonderful solution, thanks!

P.s. Is there something wrong with your camera? The lettering on your oil bottle looks all funny :rofl:
 
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OK - how about this one?

A couple years ago, I finally decided to upgrade my Delta 8" benchtop drill press with a "more capable" one. I was a sucker for the less-than-$200 price tag on a 12", variable-speed Delta DP350:

Delta_DP350.jpg



I didn't put much thought into the metalworking table at the time, but since then it has become a bit of a pain. Most of my old clamping methods don't work, or are less effective. I'm sure there must be some way to mount an auxiliary table on this thing, but it would have to be done somewhat differently than Stu's example above.

A540_1322_DeltaDP350_Table_Top.jpg
A540_1323_DeltaDP350_Table_Bottom.jpg



Before I go to a bunch of trouble, can anyone point me to some standard ways of securing workpieces to tables of this type? I'm already familiar with sliding tables, but what about for larger workpieces? Should I just "bite the bullet" and work on an auxiliary table solution?
 
Kerry, I'm going to try to answer your resuest as best I can, but I am afraid I won't be able to provide illustrations to go with this. (I am not quite computer literate enough to do that yet)

Anyway, You should be able to use your "T" slots very well for fastening an auxiliary table to your drill press. You will need some metal (I'd recommend steel) blocks that will fit the wide part of your slots and about 2 or 3 inches in length. Drill and tap a 3/8"-16 hole in the center of each of 4 of the blocks.

Measure and layout the slots on your aux. table top. Drill and countersink four 3/8 or 13/32" holes at about mid way in the length of each layed slot. Countersink so the flat head will be just shy of the table surface.

Using 3/8"-16 slotted (easier to clean than philips or socketheads) flathead machine screws of a length to go through your aux table and into, but not bottoming in the T slot, you position the drilled blocks in the T slots aligning with the 4 holes drilled in the aux table and screw the flathead screws into the threads of the blocks.

If the screws hit botton before tightening the aux table down, cut or grind some of the length of the screws for clearance. Be sure to clean up the screw treads if you cut them off.

If you mark the table in someway (a scribe mark will work) or record the measured position needed for the block placement you should be able to just about drop the screw threads right into the block holes any time you need to re-install the table.

I apologize for no drawings but I will try to come up with something, unless someone else can do it first from my text.

Hope this helps. I know it worked for me.

Aloha, Tony
 
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Thanks for another very helpful reply, Tony! :thumb: I need to hit the hay, but I'll be coming back to re-read this info more thoroughly in the next day or two.
 
Oh well ... I'm still not sleepy enough to nod off! :dunno:

Tony, your description is plenty clear and makes perfect sense. I happen to have a good-quality tap & die set for 8 common SAE(?) sizes. The biggest supported size is 1/2" ... the next size down is just what the doctor ordered:3/8"-16. :thumb: I've only used the set a time or two since I bought it ~15 years ago, but I just knew it would come in handy someday! :)

I'll take some measurements and see what my options are for the steel blocks. If I get real lucky, maybe the extra T-slot blocks that I bought for my Shopsmith fence will magically fit.

Meanwhile, I had an idea for (re)positioning the auxiliary table, in addition to your "scribe some marks" method. I could cut 4 lengths of 3/8"-16 threaded rod, maybe 1" longer than the machine screws used to hold the table in place. After screwing those rods into the metal blocks (say, 3 turns each?) I could drop the table onto them, and then replace them one at a time with the machine screws. Just a thought....

If I'm able to pull this together I will take a series of photos and post the step-by-step in a new thread.

Thanks again! :wave:
 
Ha Ha Ha, Kerry, you are a smart one. That is a good idea for aligning the table and blocks. (I'm glad I thought of that, LOL)

Make sure you use plenty oil when you do the tapping so you don't snap your tap. You will need a 5/16" drill for your tap hole. When you tap, turn it about half a turn, back off 1/4 turn to clear it and turn another half turn, and so on. You should do ok.

After thinking about it, those bars do not need to be more than 2 inches long.

Yes, I would look forward to seeing a series of pics showing how the project was done.

I'm going to hit the sack now. I know it's morning where you are but it's just tomorrow here now.

Aloha, Tony
 
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