Frank Fusco
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Couldn't open yer pics.
How to question......
- Thread starter Royall Clark
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Stuart Ablett
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Royall, that is great news, glad it worked out!
From now on, when you are done with the Bandsaw, release the tension on the thing, maybe the replacement part will last longer
From now on, when you are done with the Bandsaw, release the tension on the thing, maybe the replacement part will last longer
Royall Clark
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Can't really complain too much Stu.... I've had it about 20 years and it was well used before I got it
I did find a name on it. "Intergram" or something to that effect
I've never heard of it before. One of those "here today gone tomorrow" import companies.
I did find a name on it. "Intergram" or something to that effect I've never heard of it before. One of those "here today gone tomorrow" import companies. 
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...From now on, when you are done with the Bandsaw, release the tension on the thing, maybe the replacement part will last longer
FWIW, Stu, In the 28 years I've had my TaiChi 14" saw, about the only time I've ever released the tension has been for blade changes. I really don't think it's made any difference to the wheels/tires/castings. An 'urban myth,' perhaps?
My Laguna 16" has also had the tension left on ever since I've had it - about five years - and I don't see any change in it, either.
I doubt many (any?) commercial shops ever release the nension on theirs, either - it'd just be too time-consuming/troublesome for them, I'd think.
Royall Clark
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That has been my experience too Jim. Not that I purposefully leave it under tension, I just forget and the BS is not used that often, so when I go back to it, oops!
It is a hassal to re-tension when you want to use it backing off all the guides and then resetting them for a 2 minute operation. This year I bought a set of the orange urethane tires and a link belt. What a difference those two changes made Took a lot of vibration out of the machine with the use of the link belt.
It is a hassal to re-tension when you want to use it backing off all the guides and then resetting them for a 2 minute operation. This year I bought a set of the orange urethane tires and a link belt. What a difference those two changes made Took a lot of vibration out of the machine with the use of the link belt. 
Tony Baideme
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How to question...... /blade tensioning
People,
I have to admit to not releasing tension on by bandsaw blades except for blade changes too. That goes for metal saws as well as wood saws. I have never had any problems from it either.
I also installed orange urethane tires and a powertwist belt on my 14" Delta bandsaw with very pleasing results. My original equipment lower upper tire, which was not really flat (both tires were not that great) and made the blade bounce, let go one day and that was a noisy eye opening experience. I had already seen how the orahge tires worked so I got a pair. Good investment. That was about a year ago and the tension has been on the saw nearly all the time except for about 3 blade changes. I have looked for any impressions in the tires from leaving the blade tight all the time and sometimes even not using the saw for weeks has not left any marks.
I am thinking, maybe those tales of needing to release tension are not all that important. I do use decent blades like Olson and Timberwolf. I never used any of the higer class blades yet, but never had a blade break or other problems because of tensioning.
When I was "growing up", using my first bandsaws, both 12" Craftsmans, I used Craftsman blades, and did have a few break, mostly at welds. Figured they were cheaper blades. I never detensioned either of my old saws either. I'm talking total of over about some 45 years history.
Did I wander off topic here some?
Hope not. So, I guess my opinion would be to forget about releasing tension on your saw. 
Aloha, Tony
People,
I have to admit to not releasing tension on by bandsaw blades except for blade changes too. That goes for metal saws as well as wood saws. I have never had any problems from it either.
I also installed orange urethane tires and a powertwist belt on my 14" Delta bandsaw with very pleasing results.
My original equipment lower upper tire, which was not really flat (both tires were not that great) and made the blade bounce, let go one day and that was a noisy eye opening experience. I had already seen how the orahge tires worked so I got a pair. Good investment. That was about a year ago and the tension has been on the saw nearly all the time except for about 3 blade changes. I have looked for any impressions in the tires from leaving the blade tight all the time and sometimes even not using the saw for weeks has not left any marks. I am thinking, maybe those tales of needing to release tension are not all that important. I do use decent blades like Olson and Timberwolf. I never used any of the higer class blades yet, but never had a blade break or other problems because of tensioning.
When I was "growing up", using my first bandsaws, both 12" Craftsmans, I used Craftsman blades, and did have a few break, mostly at welds. Figured they were cheaper blades. I never detensioned either of my old saws either. I'm talking total of over about some 45 years history.
Did I wander off topic here some?
Hope not. So, I guess my opinion would be to forget about releasing tension on your saw. Aloha, Tony
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...It is a hassal to re-tension when you want to use it
Yeah, that's my thought, too.
My 14" still has the rubber tires - probably 15 yearss old. When the time comes, I'll replace them with the newer urethane ones, but not until they wear out and need replacing.
I put a link belt on it several years ago, when I switched up to a 1½hp motor, and it did smooth things up quite a bit.
Stuart Ablett
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Hey, they are your saws, you can do what you want, but I will remind you why we have this thread here, a weak link in the Royall's saw broke, that think cast aluminum part cracked, and it is funny that the part on my saw that was busted was busted in exactly the same spot
I'm not worried about that part on my saw busting again, as I fabricated one out of steel, should last, and I'll bet that the guys with the Laguna saws need not worry either, as their saws have a well built tensioner, but some of the Tiachi saws do not.
Again up to each guy, what to do with his own saw, I was just saying
I'm not worried about that part on my saw busting again, as I fabricated one out of steel, should last, and I'll bet that the guys with the Laguna saws need not worry either, as their saws have a well built tensioner, but some of the Tiachi saws do not.
Again up to each guy, what to do with his own saw, I was just saying
Tony Baideme
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Stu,
I'd almost be willing to bet that constant blade tension on Royall's band saw was not the cause of the part breaking. I would venture that the vibration, caused by grossly out of shape tires on the saw.
In a phone conversation with Royall this afternoon, we talked about this and about the same vibration that my pretty strong Delta 14" had, before I replaced and properly setup new tires on it. The original rubber tires were glued on, but were way out of round shape, and causec a repeated tightening/looening of the blade, so much so that while the saw was running you could actually see a fluctuation of the saw frame. Of course, if I had left this as it was, I could probably have expected a failure of the same part as Royall. It looks as though that pivot is the weak link in the top wheel mount.
I agree with you that your shop-built "Phoenix" saw is built so this would not happen. In the commercially made saws, the part is made of diecast material. If it is subjected to the stress of blade tension AND the stress of constant vibration at the same time, it is going to fail. I don't believe that the part would fail from the tension alone. Now, this is coming from my experience with OTHER parts of similar materials, not the band saw part in question. I don't think there could be enough tension put on that part by the system of the saw.
Just stating my somewhat educated opinion, for what it's worth.
Aloha, Tony
I'd almost be willing to bet that constant blade tension on Royall's band saw was not the cause of the part breaking. I would venture that the vibration, caused by grossly out of shape tires on the saw.
In a phone conversation with Royall this afternoon, we talked about this and about the same vibration that my pretty strong Delta 14" had, before I replaced and properly setup new tires on it. The original rubber tires were glued on, but were way out of round shape, and causec a repeated tightening/looening of the blade, so much so that while the saw was running you could actually see a fluctuation of the saw frame. Of course, if I had left this as it was, I could probably have expected a failure of the same part as Royall. It looks as though that pivot is the weak link in the top wheel mount.
I agree with you that your shop-built "Phoenix" saw is built so this would not happen. In the commercially made saws, the part is made of diecast material. If it is subjected to the stress of blade tension AND the stress of constant vibration at the same time, it is going to fail. I don't believe that the part would fail from the tension alone. Now, this is coming from my experience with OTHER parts of similar materials, not the band saw part in question. I don't think there could be enough tension put on that part by the system of the saw.
Just stating my somewhat educated opinion, for what it's worth.
Aloha, Tony
Stuart Ablett
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And it is worth a lot Tony
I was not aware of this tire problem with the saw, your explanation makes sense.
I agree that releasing the tension and then re-tensioning the blade each time is a pain, I don't do it
I was just concerned that the die-cast part might again suffer and Royall would be back to where he was again.
Cheers!
I was not aware of this tire problem with the saw, your explanation makes sense.
I agree that releasing the tension and then re-tensioning the blade each time is a pain, I don't do it
I was just concerned that the die-cast part might again suffer and Royall would be back to where he was again.
Cheers!