I've had very good luck with DNA soaks. I will say that with some woods, it just isn't going to be completely dry at 2 weeks no matter what. I haven't tested with a moisture meter, but some bowls that I've turned are noticeably MUCH lighter a month or two down the road from finish turning. If I'm really trying to make something quick, I turn to a little less than that 10% figure, but not too much; sometimes things move a lot more than you thought they would. Apple and sycamore move a lot no matter what, at least IME. Anyway, I don't cut out the middle of the (brown paper grocery bag around the ) bowl; I just crumple the end so that it is loosely closed, and even opened the bag very slightly a couple times after a few days; I haven't had one crack from drying too fast yet, but I usually stack several on a shelf together after a day of roughing out blanks, so there wasn't a huge amount of airflow there. I have finish turned a couple pieces just 5 days after soaking; a 15" oak bowl, and a 13" natural edge hickory bowl. The oak bowl moved very very little after finish turning, and not until a week or two after sanding & varnishing was it noticeable. When laying it flat on its face, it is only 3/16" or so out of round. I don't have pics of it; sorry. Just be careful, and if your shop is heated, and there's low humidity outside, cover it extra well, and put it in a corner, or somewhere out of airflow.
EDIT: Minwax Antique Oil is GREAT stuff; I love working with it; if I really sand well up to 600-800, then slight synthetic steel wool buffing, I can get a nice shine even before the varnish; this way, if I get a really soaking first coat, after sanding any rough spots after it dries, it looks great with just one or two more coats; with more coats, sanding lightly in between, it really takes on a really reflective surface. I don't use a beall buff system (yet--maybe in the future. I modded my lathe with a jack shaft pulley--topspeed is now less than 1500RPM).