Work Bench-Top Questions

Sean Wright

Member
Messages
902
Location
WNY, Buffalo Area
I have been considering putting a MDF top on my bench, and I have alot of questions.

I tried seaching the forum for info on this, but I must have done something wrong, as I know I have read that some people have done this.

As I recall, the MDF was doubled up (2 - 3/4in pieces). Were they gluded together, screwed, or both? If they were glued, what type of glue was used? Did you edge the MDF with wood?

What was the MDF sealed with? was it BLO? Did that keep the top from letting glue stick to it?

Did you put in dog holes? If so are they working ok?

Overall, how has the bench top held up?

I will be mounting a bench top Delta 12in Drill press to one corner of the top. Will this be a problem with the MDF?

Thanks!
 
Mine's here.

As I recall, the MDF was doubled up (2 - 3/4in pieces). Were they gluded together, screwed, or both?

4 sheets of 3/4" MDF glued and screwed. NOTE - keep an accurate layout drawing of your screw locations for dog hole and other additions later. I keep a hardcopy in an envelope tacked to a support member under the bench so my PC can't "lose" it ;-)

If they were glued, what type of glue was used?

Titebond II as it was on hand.

Did you edge the MDF with wood?

Yes and don't make my mistake here; I "saved" some money by buying KD fir at the BORG. Despite letting it acclimate, properly stored, in my shop for over 2 months there was so much waste I could have bought good quality fir at the lumber yard and been money ahead. To add insult to injury, the BORG fir has continued to shrink to the point where it will eventually need to be replaced; probably when I change to my new vises.

On the upside, I simply glued the edging on and it has been faultless.

What was the MDF sealed with? was it BLO? Did that keep the top from letting glue stick to it?

I used a 1:1 BLO and mineral spirits mix. Several coats, ALL surfaces. After a week to be sure it was all gassed off, I waxed the top. I have waxed it once more in the last year. Glue never sticks ;-)

Did you put in dog holes? If so are they working OK?

3/4" round. Working great.

Overall, how has the bench top held up?

This is after a year and a half: Top-at-18-months-1.jpg Top-at-18-months-2.jpg

I will be mounting a bench top Delta 12in Drill press to one corner of the top. Will this be a problem with the MDF?

No, but I would probably bolt through with fender washers. Again I emphasize support from underneath in the form of cross-members. JMHO.

Along that line, I used lag screws to hold my vises on after numerous folks assured me this was adequate . . . they were right.
 
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I bought a 72" X 30" X 2 1/4" Maple butcher block top from Global Industrial.
There are also other places that sell them.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs...ram.itemKey=30036330&infoParam.picGroupKey=52

601148_1wco.gif
 
I used a 1:1 BLO and mineral spirits mix. Several coats, ALL surfaces. After a week to be sure it was all gassed off, I waxed the top. I have waxed it once more in the last year. Glue never sticks ;-)

Glenn,

Thanks for all of the info! I've never used BLO before. Does it stink up the shop? My shop is in the basement, and has a forced air furnace in one end. (not the best set up for a shop, but my garage is out of the question for a shop--so its the basement or no shop at all:doh:) I would prefer not to have my wife complaining about my shop stinking up the house for a week or so. Plus, I wouldn't want an explosion/fire while it is off gassing.
 
Glenn,

Thanks for all of the info! I've never used BLO before. Does it stink up the shop? My shop is in the basement, and has a forced air furnace in one end. (not the best set up for a shop, but my garage is out of the question for a shop--so its the basement or no shop at all:doh:) I would prefer not to have my wife complaining about my shop stinking up the house for a week or so. Plus, I wouldn't want an explosion/fire while it is off gassing.

It is a bit aromatic :). The smell dies down as it dries but in a closed area you will notice when you walk in even after a few days. There is even one school of thought that BLO is "dry" when you can't smell it anymore when you stick your nose right up to the piece. In my experince, that would be a couple weeks or more!!!

If you go a little heavier on the mineral spirits, the mixture will "dry" quicker but you will need more coats so there may not be much improvement there as far as smell and duration.

There is danger of fire in the improper disposal method of rags that BLO and other like materials have. I have a metal bucket with a lid; I put a few inches of water in it and toss my rags / paper towels / whatever in there as I work and then take the whole deal outside to spread them to dry. Once dry, you can just toss them in the trash.

As for the heater . . . let me check the label . . . hmmmm, it says right on the can to not use or store near open flame or in "heater areas" whatever that means specifically. My gas water heater is in my shop and the shop is still here but, I am in a ground level drafty garage.
 
I salvaged a door when the office was beig re-modeled. It must be ~2.5" thick and very heavy. It is 3 feet wide and at least 7 feet long. Since the door is covered with arborite, I'm planning on putting either 1/4" hardboard or a thicker MDF piece on top.

Would a 1/4" hardboard be sufficient for a top?


I don't know if the core is solid lumber or chip board, but it is very heavy.

For the base I'm planning on building a box out of plywood with 2 compatments. The compartments can be used to mount drawers or shelves. With the plywood on 5 sides, I'm hoping that the base will not sag with legs only on the ends.
 
Sean

I used 1" salvaged plywood for the base of th top 3/4" high density chip board for the next layer up & 1/4" tempered Masonite for the top Wrapped in salvaged Poplar with the bench legs & stretchers out of salvaged Poplar. The original plane was out of Woodsmith where the legs were grooved on the inside & 3/4' plywood was glued & fastened between the front & back leg then I shimmed out & put a piece of peg board over the plywood. After 6 years or more its time to replace the Masonite top which is the great thing about this way of constructing the top. I'll just unscrew the Poplar end to get at the edge of the Masonite & pull it loose & replace it with a new piece. The top is approximately 3' x 6' finished with wipe on Watco finish which is nice I can just rub down with steel wool & wipe on another coat whenever it looks like it needs it including the top. I like simple & quickly replacable.
 

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Mine has two 3/4" sheets that are glued together and sealed with paste wax. Hard maple for the edges. If you where closer I could get youe full sheets with one good side for $3 each.
 
Bart and/or Glenn,

How did you fasten the masonite to the top of the workbench so that it could easily be removed?

I just used a few 18 Gage air nails when I replace the top I'll pull them if I can (probably not) or clip then & drive the rest below the surface with a nail set, or sand them flush or use a portable angle grinder to get them flush. I won't be detoured.:rofl:
 
I just used 4 strips of double sided turners tape years ago. It's never budged but it is framed; I framed the outer edge of the stacked plywood top with some oak trim that stood 3/16" proud of the top surface. The trim is pocket-holed on from underneath in case I changed my mind (never did). Put down four strips of tape and set the hardboard in place. Set a few paint cans, an old vise and whatever on it overnight; its still there. Here's a pic from a couple months ago.
 
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Id go with the cheapest ply and a sheet of 1/4 masonite.
If you spill something or cut into it, you wont be heartbroken, and can always replace it cheaply.
When I need a clean surface, I put a sheet of particle board or mdf on top and work on that.
buts that me, Im cheap and dont see the need to spend 100s of bucks for a work surface that meets drill bits and jigsaw blades now and then.
 
My 24x48" assembly table is 2 sheets 3/4 MDF plus 1/4" hardboard on top, edged with maple. Hardboard is screwed into the MDF (no glue) with 3/4 #6 screws making it easily removable and the hardboard is waxed so nothing sticks to it. No dog holes.
 
My bench top is 1" plywood donated to me & 3/4" high density chip board & then 1/4" Masonite . I pre-drilled/countersunk from bottom of the plywood & into the chip board . Spread the glue on the chip board & set the plywood on top & screw it together. After its set remove screws around the edges & trim to size.
 
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