45º stop cut on the band saw question

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Hi there.

I have to make four pieces like the one shown in #1 to make the four legs of a dresser I'm planning to make.
pota01.jpg


Hence I need to cut those stop cut corners at 45º angle, and I do not have a table saw.
I figured out a jig like in #2 would help me to make those cuts, I would make one cut on the right side of the saw and the other one on the left side.
jig01.jpg
However I have the doubt if the piece will not be supported enough to cut it safely.
Is there any other way to do it?

I've thought about inverting the jig so that the piece would point downwards but then I could only make the first cut and then I would need to stick a sheet of plywood that would give me the reference corner to slide on.

Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 
Toni,

Could you make the cut with a router and finish up the end with a chisel?

I think your jig would work fine if you could clamp the work to it. I would extend the piec the work lays on beyond the blade and cut it off in the first pass. That would make it effectively zero clearance.
 
Toni,

Could you make the cut with a router and finish up the end with a chisel?

I think your jig would work fine if you could clamp the work to it. I would extend the piec the work lays on beyond the blade and cut it off in the first pass. That would make it effectively zero clearance.

Do you mean using a bit like this? or one similar without the bearing?
bit01.jpg

this one is too small for it, do you think it would be better getting a bigger one than using the bandsaw?
 
Yes. A bit like that would work. It could even have the bearing if you want. You'll need some sort of fence though. Router table or, if hand held, a fence on the base of the router to guide against.

As far as better, I don't know. With an even feed rate you should get a surface that requires less clean up but if you go too slow there's the potential for burning in spots. If you use the bandsaw you'll need to clean up the saw marks. Not likely to get any burning but you'll have those corners to get into to clean.

Is there any chance you could glue on pieces of wood to make the stopped bevel?
 
Can you give us a sketch of how these integrate into the dresser? If they're to make a joint with another 45, I'd be leery of the bandsaw method. Even with my MM16 and carbide blade with zero drift I dont know that a BS would give tight enough cuts for joints without following up with a hand plane and shooting board of sorts. The router method might be a bit more exact for joinery, but maybe if we saw how these fit in we might get some other ideas.
 
Toni, If you use the jig on the BS, consider turning it 90 degrees counter clockwise from your pic -- that puts the workpiece on the table and will eliminate the tendency of the blade to pull it downward or try to rotate it as you cut.

Myself, I would explore the router solution first. I've had very good success using the router in a table for chamfering / rounding over edges.

Tony
 
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Router with a straight bit

I would look at using my router table, with a jib something like you sketched out to hold the work piece at the 45 deg. angle, but use a straight bit. Of course the corner would need to be cleaned up with a chisel. You might consider roughing the cut out on the band saw to keep from having to remove a lot of material with the router.

Dick
 
Hi Guys.

Many thanks for all the suggestions. The idea of a straight bit on the router fancies me. It would leave an almost perfect finish, and chiseling the corner would not be a problem.

But those chamfers are about 1.5 inches wide, are there router bits that long?

Just to help you I include a rough idea of how the web frame is going to be.
As it is going to be a frame and panel structure I'm planinng to use two different woods one brown for the frame and a light coloured one for the panels.

The final shape of the legs is not defined yet but I want them portrude from the top that's why I need that final ends without the chamfer.
 

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My first reaction when I saw your jig was :eek: "Don't Do It" and here's why... leverage, the piece is a long way from the support of the table and the saw will want to flip it over, and with leverage adavantage, it will do it. resulting in (at the least) kinking the blade, but before that, you will try to stop the tilt and the blade will get flesh in the process. (and possibly bone) I would feel it is not a safe jig due to its small size and the elevation of the cut above the supporting table.

Best way I would think would to tilt the table to 45 degrees and construct a jug to slide though the miter guage slot or use the miter guage, to feed it squarely. That way the cut would be at the table surface where it should be and the miter guage or jig will support the piece and create the perfect cut. Hands intact.
 
Hi Guys.

Many thanks for all the suggestions. The idea of a straight bit on the router fancies me. It would leave an almost perfect finish, and chiseling the corner would not be a problem.

But those chamfers are about 1.5 inches wide, are there router bits that long?

.
yes toni,, cmt makes one .500 shank and its no is 806-690. they are made in italy so you should be able to get them over in spain.. i am sure othe companys make them as well.. they are used for panel template use.
 
My first reaction when I saw your jig was :eek: "Don't Do It" and here's why... leverage, the piece is a long way from the support of the table and the saw will want to flip it over, and with leverage adavantage, it will do it. resulting in (at the least) kinking the blade, but before that, you will try to stop the tilt and the blade will get flesh in the process. (and possibly bone) I would feel it is not a safe jig due to its small size and the elevation of the cut above the supporting table.

Best way I would think would to tilt the table to 45 degrees and construct a jug to slide though the miter guage slot or use the miter guage, to feed it squarely. That way the cut would be at the table surface where it should be and the miter guage or jig will support the piece and create the perfect cut. Hands intact.

I had the same thoughts, hence my post. However, if I'm right tilt¡ng the table will allow me to cut only one of the sides, because my table only tilts to the right, or tis there a different way that I don't know:dunno:
 
One cut on the downhill side, one cut on the uphill side. Do all four legs with the fence on the downhill side first, then switch the fence to the uphill side and process all four legs again, carefully maintaining fence contact since gravity will be working against you. A featherboard or two will help.

Bob
 
One cut on the downhill side, one cut on the uphill side. Do all four legs with the fence on the downhill side first, then switch the fence to the uphill side and process all four legs again, carefully maintaining fence contact since gravity will be working against you. A featherboard or two will help.

Bob

Now I see it, I think I have figured it out. I could even use on the fence on the right side of the table and didn't need to work against gravity.
Please see the sketch and correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Your approach could work, but imagine if the workpiece in your first cut figure was actually the fence. Then you could run the workpiece against that fence flat to the table, and cut your stopped chamfer on the other face.
 
Now I see it, I think I have figured it out. I could even use on the fence on the right side of the table and didn't need to work against gravity.
Please see the sketch and correct me if I'm wrong.

Toni,
That will work, but I'd reverse the order of the cuts. A you've got it illustrated, the second cut will have the stock riding on the point of the angle - very little support.

By reversing the order of the cuts, the full edge of the board will be riding on the table for the first cut, and the full side ofthe board will be ridig on the sw table for the second cut. Both easier and safer, I'd think.
 
Toni,
That will work, but I'd reverse the order of the cuts. A you've got it illustrated, the second cut will have the stock riding on the point of the angle - very little support.

By reversing the order of the cuts, the full edge of the board will be riding on the table for the first cut, and the full side ofthe board will be ridig on the sw table for the second cut. Both easier and safer, I'd think.

You're right Jim, actually when I drew it I was thinking the same, but I do not how it eluded my mind.
 
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