Tung Oil finishing question

Tom Niemi

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I am in the final stages of some boxes for x-mas gifts and have put the first coat of tung oil on some curlie maple, wow that sure pops the figure. Now to my question, I will be putting on 2 to 3 coats of tung oil, should I be rubbing the wood with OOOO steel wool between coats or just wipe with a clean cloth?

Thanks in advance.

Tom
 
I am in the final stages of some boxes for x-mas gifts and have put the first coat of tung oil on some curlie maple, wow that sure pops the figure. Now to my question, I will be putting on 2 to 3 coats of tung oil, should I be rubbing the wood with OOOO steel wool between coats or just wipe with a clean cloth?

Thanks in advance.

Tom

I'never used steel wool between coats of tung oil, and I think it would make a mess, but my experience with it is rather recent, I wip it with a clean cloth.

One thing I discovered was that the smoother the finish before the first coat the better, it seems obvious but we always tend to oversee obvious things:(
 
I agree with toni that the smoother the surface, the better the finish,

I just finished last night my 6th coat of rub on minwax poly, over 4 rub on coats of tung oil.

although the box I made is not perfect, some of my own fault, some wood imperfections, the finish is as smooth as a babys skin. best finish I got in the few projects Ive done with smooth finishes.
I let the tung oil dry at least 2 days minimum at room temps, then very lightly sanded it with scotchbrite finishing pad.
I sanded in between each coat of tung, but I used mahogany.
but the surface came out beautiful, better than the box itself.
 
Thanks Toni and Allen :thumb: sounds like a light sanding between coats no steel wool. I had already sanded to 220 as you both have sugested. Nice and smooth. Just really want the curlie to pop. Will post pics when done.

Tom
 
tom are these boxes oak? if so stay away from them with steel wool.. steel schards and oak make blue black stains... use synthetic scrub pads..or wet dry paper..
 
Thanks Larry, I didnt know that the steel wool would stain :p that would have made me grumble a bit. 2 are curlie maple and walnut, 1 is cherry and curlie maple (both are the stuff you wide belt sanded for me) and 2 are qtr sawn red oak

Tom
 
Tom, are you using real tung oil, or a "tung oil finish" like Formby's or Minwax? The real tung oil takes quite a bit longer to cure. (Although in either case, the steps suggested by others here should produce nice results.)
 
Wow Vaughn, I guess I didnt know there are different versions. Ran down to the shop (not a pretty sight:p) and I have "Minwax tung oil finish". That is all my local borg had. I guess my question now is, what is the difference?

Tom
 
Wow Vaughn, I guess I didnt know there are different versions. Ran down to the shop (not a pretty sight:p) and I have "Minwax tung oil finish". That is all my local borg had. I guess my question now is, what is the difference?

Tom
Most of the "tung oil finishes" are essentially a wiping varnish...most (but not all) of them even have a little tung oil in them. That's not to say they are a bad thing. I've used the Formby's version on a number of my turned things. Pure tung oil can take a long time to cure, but tung oil finishes are like most other wipe-on finishes...they cure in a day or so. I also believe they are more durable, and can be built up into a glossier finish.
 
Wow Vaughn, I guess I didnt know there are different versions. Ran down to the shop (not a pretty sight:p) and I have "Minwax tung oil finish". That is all my local borg had. I guess my question now is, what is the difference?

Tom
Min-Wax Tung oil finish is an oil-varnish mix made with polyurethane varnish and linseed oil. Formby's is a thin wiping varnish made with alkd resin and soya oil. None of the major tung oil finishes contain any tung oil. If it doesn't say 100% pure tung oil- it isn't, not that there is anything wrong with these finishes, I'm just not fond of deceptive advertising. Bob Flexner's book explains this mess very well.

Regards

Jerry
 
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