Pull Out SCMS Station.....?

Stu I am using HVAC fittings to match up my DC to the table saw,jointer, bandsaw. All have rectangular openings when one removes the plastic 4" port the machine comes with. What I am in the process of doing is taking floor HVAC outlets which are rectangular and then go to 5" and cutting the edge that normally comes through the floor and bending it back at 90 degree. Then using that bent back face to mount it.
I will use some neoprene strip to seal it up nice and tight. These type of fittings come in 6" too.

Well, I've looked for them here Rob, and the only ones I can find are hand made, and start at around $200 I'll make them myself for that kind of coin

I went and reread some of Bill Pentz's pages, and I found that the corners in a rectangular duct do create some loses, so I have to go a bit bigger.

I found this formula through a link in Bill's page................

Rectangular Ducts

For rectangular ducts the diameter - d - may be calculated as:
d = 1.30 x ((a x b)0.625) / (a + b)0.25) (1)
where
a = length of one side (inches)
b = length of the other side (inches)

Click to expand...

Or I could just use the calculator I found >> HERE <<

It seems a duct that is 4" x 8" is the same, flow wise, as a 6" ID round duct

Now I know what to build, I could even build it from plywood

Stuart Ablett said:

Well, I've looked for them here Rob, and the only ones I can find are hand made, and start at around $200 I'll make them myself for that kind of coin

Click to expand...

Wow can you believe it. Here I paid 5 bucks Canadian at HD.

I got the cut outs for the tables done as well, this gives me clearance to put the saw at 45 to the right and left

In thinking about the fence I flopped the saw over on each side.......

.........as you can see, to the left, I'll have no problem making a fence, to the right, at least close to the saw, I'll have to limit the height of the fence.

Cheers!

Why can't you use duct board? You can make it any size you want it. I have also used it and 3 and 4 inch PVC as DC channels. I have more trouble with the various fitting to equipment. I connected the PVC pipe to rectangular duct with AC tape.


Ray Gerdes

Hi Raymond!

Can you tell me what "Duct Board" is That is one I'm not familiar with......

I use 6" pipes right to my machines, so I do not want to reduce the cross section, that would only impede my DC working well. The space I have behind the sliding saw station is not big, so the round 6" pipe is out, I need a way to go from the round 6" main run of the ducting to a flat or rectangular section that will fit in the tight space I have.

Cheers!

Stuart,
Duct board is fiberglass product very similar to gypsum wallboard (sheetrock).
You cut off the length you need and score the fold lines and make a rectangular tube the size you want and seal it with an aluminum tape.
I have no idea if it is available in Japan; but check with a HACV supplier and they can help I'm sure. When I put a heat pump in the farm house I used it instead of metal (cost), after 20 years it is still good. What is really neat is you can use a hole saw and cut holes in to either service a vent or to ad a branch. I will try to get more exact info and I will post it.

I haven:t been back to Japan since 1949; camers and model RR locos were the big sellers then and jitney jeeps were a big enterprise for backyard shops. My biggest regret is I didn't pay more attention to the craftsmen; but a 19 yo kid has other interests. The main PX was on the Ginza and we used to sidewalk shop on Saturdays -- often ended in a Pachinko parlour.

Ray Gerdes

Stuart---Google air conditioning ductboard and it gives a long list. I didn't try to locate sources because they wouldn't be appliable to you. Hope this helps. The only second thought I have had is the exposed fiberglass in the duct --- will it load with dust?

Ray Gerdes

I've not seen anything like that for sale here Raymond, central heating is not common here, neither is insulation


I've gotten one of the wings covered with arborite, and installed, the first picture is with the saw at 45 degrees, the second is the max at 53 degrees.

In trying to fit in the duct work for the DC, I've come to the conclusion that I've got to move my support bracket on the right side, to make the duct work fit.


As you can see, using this wye, the support bracket is in the way, the part of the wye that points straight down, will be for the jointer, and the other one for the SCMS. If I move the support bracket further to the right, things will fit much better.


Here you can see a photo shop version of what I'm thinking........

Should work.

Could you put in 45, drop straight to the floor and then hook up the SCMS dust from below?
(and the jointer of course)

Moving that support just seems like a ton o' work.

Yeah, I agree, moving the support is a lot of work, I have been stuck on the idea of using the wye in place there, but maybe, I should rethink that, thanks guys!

Fresh eyes always help! Glad Art and Chuck helped before you had to move the bracket...nice save guys and looking good Stu.

Funny how easy it was to "move" it in Photoshop. Maybe we could finish all our projects in Photoshop.

Chuck Thoits said:

Customer "That doesn't look any thing like the picture."
Woodworker "No I fixed it in photo shop"

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Sounds like pictures on a dating site.
"Gee you don't look anything like your picture."
"No, I 'fixed' myself up in Photoshop."

Chuck Thoits said:

No on those you just use pictures of other people. There are just some things you just can't fix with photo shop

Click to expand...

Don't I know that!

I took your advice, and I think it saved me a ton of work, thanks


This is the solution, I think


It fit, but just, no much wiggle room at all, but then again, no wasted space either


I then added a piece of flex hose, to see how that would work, and I think this will work out fine.



I'll be putting a pan under the slide out table, and a deflector on the backside, as well as two shrouds on each side, to contain the dust. I think that this will work well.



It is a tight fit, and I do need to put a blast gate in there somewhere, so this s what I came up with. I cut a slot in the wye, and made and insert blast gate, with guides, or rails on the outside. It seems to work well, so far, and I hope that it does not clog up a lot.

Cont........

Once I got the blast gate done, I put the wye back in place......

Man it JUST fit, let me tell you, no space to spare


here it is open.

I did figure out, that I would not be able to put a second blast gate into the wye, but not before I cut a slot for it Oh well, that will get covered up when I put a regular blast gate in there.


These are a couple shots of the area behind the saw, where the flex hose comes out, I think that with a pan in there, making the flex hose area the low point, sloping back to the flex hose, and the shroud around the saw, I'll have a pretty good way to collect the dust.

When I was grinding the slots for the blast gate (one of which I'll not need) my el cheapo 4" angel grinder let the smoke out No big surprise, it was a $29.99 special, and the last of my cheap impulse buy units. I really did kill it the other day with the concrete floor grinding, that was hard on it, but today, it just did not stand up the regular use. The case on it is plastic, and I abused it so much that the plastic around the bearings melted, which let all kinds of other problems happen, my own fault, using a cheap tool like this on the job.

I went down to a local place, I happened to know they were having a sale even, and I bought a replacement, I hope this one lasts longer (the cheap one did last a fair bit, maybe two years). It was regular $80 on sale for about $50, not bad I guess


it is a name brand Hitachi, and it is has an all aluminum case.

I did notice one thing...........

....... yep, NOT made in Japan

OK two things, the other is that it is rated for 30 minutes of use.

Cheers!

Stu If you have the room add a hardwood edge to the gate & drill a 3/8 hole for a short dowel & add a turned handle to make it easier to open the gate.