Need some help from the experts.

Chuck Ellis

Member
Messages
6,997
Location
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
A friend gave me some oak. I couldn't get any of the main trunk, it was 52" dia and my chainsaw would not cut through it... matter of fact I went through two saws trying to get what I did get. This was a little burl I took off the main trunk.. it's spalting some and full of inclusions and holes.

The bowl is still rough. And I Need to go back and take out some tool marks on the bottom and do some more sanding, but I'm leaving it thick and heavy on the bottom because it's trying to crumble a little.

Need your recommendations as how to finish the wood. I'm thinking a spray lacquer, but would have to be rattle cans, I don't have a compressor or spray system. Take a look and let me know how you would finish it. Thanks all.
 

Attachments

  • oak 004.JPG
    oak 004.JPG
    71.7 KB · Views: 16
  • oak 008.JPG
    oak 008.JPG
    85.1 KB · Views: 15
  • oak 010.JPG
    oak 010.JPG
    74.9 KB · Views: 7
  • oak 013.JPG
    oak 013.JPG
    71.7 KB · Views: 8
  • oak 014.JPG
    oak 014.JPG
    71.7 KB · Views: 9
  • oak 020.JPG
    oak 020.JPG
    74 KB · Views: 4
  • oak 015.JPG
    oak 015.JPG
    77.1 KB · Views: 6
  • oak 016.JPG
    oak 016.JPG
    73 KB · Views: 13
  • oak 018.JPG
    oak 018.JPG
    67 KB · Views: 6
  • oak 019.JPG
    oak 019.JPG
    70 KB · Views: 7
Boy Chuck, a lot going on in that piece!

Wax does a good job, but I think it is better on a smooth piece, with a piece blessed with voids, I think you would be better off with the rattle can lacquer.

One point to remember with the rattle can is to keep the can in the house overnight to keep it warm, before you spray, if your shop is cool or cold, the can will be too, and cold spray cans don't work as well as warm ones. Also, with that piece, you might want to think about a non-shiny finish, so a semi-gloss, would be better than a gloss finish, IMHO.

Cheers!
 
I'm a fan of Bush Oil - it seems to be a commercial bland of 1/3 each BLO, tung oil and urethanes. Easy wipe on application, wipe on an excessive amount, let it soak in for 15 - 30 mins, repeat, then wipe off remaining excess. Let dry overnight - 24 hours, no further treatment necessary for nice satin look. Adds just a hint of amber as it really pops the grain. Does not hold up to canine claws when used on a flooring piece in a canine direction change area.
 
i would be using lemon oil until the piece was dry and stable then either a danish oi or organoil to build up to a satin sheen
 
Top