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Let's see your TS switch safety upgrades

Thank You very much Daniel. Thats just what I want to make. I will use you design if you dont mind thats the best combination I have come across. First I will try to track down a blower. I already have one of those furnace filter frames. Used it on my furnace and then swopped it out with a different type. Appreciate the detailed pics.
 
Daniel West said:
It is my design. The holes are 1" Dia. with a 1/4" round over on a 3" center to center staggered pattern. I can sand large items and if I am sanding small items, I place pieces of plywood over some of the holes to create greater suction. You can see the sloped surfaces that direct the sawdust toward the center area where the filters are.

I have a small removable door for access to the filters. The first filter is a washable one to catch most everything and the second is a finer one to catch smaller particles. The blower blows the air out through the grill that is shown.

The fan is a salvaged squirrel cage from a furnace. It is wired through a timer switch so I can leave it on after I leave to help clean the shop air.

If you have any other questions, just ask.
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Great looking table. :thumb:Looks like you have the same saw and fence as I do. I don't need the down draft part but love the size of the table.:D Question, what is the pipe flange on the side for?:huh: What is around the other side? storage? Sorry Rennie for hijacking your thread my bad.
 
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Royall Clark said:
Great looking table. :thumb:Looks like you have the same saw and fence as I do. I don't need the down draft part but love the size of the table.:D Question, what is the pipe flange on the side for?:huh: What is around the other side? storage? Sorry Rennie for hijacking your thread my bad.
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The flange is to mount a poor boy clamp for holding items to be sanded. It is just the movable part of a 3/4" pipe clamp mounted on a 6" pipe nipple. I just screw it into the mounted flange when I need to clamp a board.

The other portion of the clamp is just an oak board with two dowels. The will fit into the holes in the table for a wide range of gripping width. The dowels are mounted off center in the width so the board can be rotated end to end to make an even finer adjustment because the jaw on the pipe clamp does not have a lot of range.

In case you noticed the slightly different colored rectangle in the table top, that is a removable plate. It comes out and a new plate with a Porter Cable oscillating spindle sander mounted on it goes in. This allows me to spindle sand with the downdraft table taking the sawdust away.

Almost forgot your question about the other side. It has four large drawers for storage of additional sanding sleeves, saw blades, feather boards and other items.
 

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Rennie Heuer said:
Thanks Stu - I think this is the type of arrangement I'm leaning toward, but I also think I need to move my switch to the right.:huh:
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Rennie where do you stand in order to keep the material against the fence. The width of the widest material you will rip or cross cut will determine where you put your switch & off paddle. If the paddle is buried underneath the material where you can't get to it it won't do you any good.
 
Bart Leetch said:
Rennie where do you stand in order to keep the material against the fence. The width of the widest material you will rip or cross cut will determine where you put your switch & off paddle. If the paddle is buried underneath the material where you can't get to it it won't do you any good.
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Good point - I'll run a few tests.
 
Daniel West said:
The flange is to mount a poor boy clamp for holding items to be sanded. It is just the movable part of a 3/4" pipe clamp mounted on a 6" pipe nipple. I just screw it into the mounted flange when I need to clamp a board.

The other portion of the clamp is just an oak board with two dowels. The will fit into the holes in the table for a wide range of gripping width. The dowels are mounted off center in the width so the board can be rotated end to end to make an even finer adjustment because the jaw on the pipe clamp does not have a lot of range.

In case you noticed the slightly different colored rectangle in the table top, that is a removable plate. It comes out and a new plate with a Porter Cable oscillating spindle sander mounted on it goes in. This allows me to spindle sand with the downdraft table taking the sawdust away.

Almost forgot your question about the other side. It has four large drawers for storage of additional sanding sleeves, saw blades, feather boards and other items.
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Daniel that table of yours is a treasure chest of ideas. Given the surprises and ingenuity that you have you now owe it to us to do a shop tour and show us all your other neat ideas that are hidden in that shop of yours. It gets better with every post. The Pipe clamp is fantastic and the rest makes me stuck for words. Go on please do a shop tour.:clap::thumb:
 
An intersting thread that has grown like Topsy.

My own comments for a switch that is easily accessible and wouldn't be hidden by the material is to have a floor switch. This could be a pressure or strip switch of some sort.

A floor switch is commonly used for appliances where the operator is not moving around, and is often configured as a "dead man" switch. i.e. a switch that is only "ON" when it is pressed.

The only problem is that it would require some logic so that it would only be able to turn the saw OFF and not ON.

Anyhow, a rather have baked idea to through into the mix.
 
Paul Brubacher said:
An intersting thread that has grown like Topsy.

My own comments for a switch that is easily accessible and wouldn't be hidden by the material is to have a floor switch. This could be a pressure or strip switch of some sort.

A floor switch is commonly used for appliances where the operator is not moving around, and is often configured as a "dead man" switch. i.e. a switch that is only "ON" when it is pressed.

The only problem is that it would require some logic so that it would only be able to turn the saw OFF and not ON.

Anyhow, a rather have baked idea to through into the mix.
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Given the widths of material cut or ripped on a T/S I think any emergency shut off should be in a fixed position & with a magnetic type switch a floor switch may not be the best idea.
 
Bart Leetch said:
Given the widths of material cut or ripped on a T/S I think any emergency shut off should be in a fixed position & with a magnetic type switch a floor switch may not be the best idea.
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Actually, if the floor switch were wired in series with the off button on the magnetic switch, it would function properly - it would turn the saw OFF, but you'd still have to use the "ON" button to start the saw.

All the "OFF" button typically does is break the circuit for the magnetic relay 'hold-in,' so the floor switch in series would just act as a second OFF switch. You could even wire a couple of them in different "likely needed" places.
 
Thinking about the wooden paddles that others added to their switches made me realize that it is not necessary to purchase a pressure mat switch. Simply fasten 2 1x6's or a 1x6 and 2x6 ,together with hinges and add a switch.

The switch could be made to whatever length is best. It should be fastened to the CS base so that it doesn't get loose and become a tripping hazard.

A momentary single pole double throw switch would provide both logic states. i.e. normally closed and normally open. To use in series with the off contacts
of a magnetic switch, it would probably require the normally closed contacts. When the switch is pressed, the circuit opens and the magnetic switch turns off.

A spring might be required top fine tune the action of the swtich.
 
Not yet Bart, the floor mounted switch was simply an idea that I had after reading about the concerns of not being able to hit the switch when large material is being cut.

I'm not certain what size of switch would be best.

Jim's comment about adding extra shut-off switches in series with a magnetic switch could be quite useful as well.

Anyhow, since I just got laid off work, I have a bit of spare processing power and time.
 
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