Maple Plate

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Goodland, Kansas
Here is a maple plate I made. It is 11" across and is finished with Minwax Antique oil then buffed. I have 3 more to make and then they will be put into service at my table. That is according to the LOML.
 

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Thanks again. I am hoping I can get the others to match as a set. These are going to be used for eating. I e-mailed back and forth with Ernie Conover. He told me the only thing he uses on utility items is Antique Oil.
 
Thanks again. I got this piece of wood which was 8/4 and 49" long from Beautiful Woods in Denver. He said it had been laying around for a while. He gave me this piece 12 1/8" wide and the 14" wide 58" long piece I used for the cheese platter for $2 a foot so I jumped on both.
 
great looking plate bernie :thumb: i dont make many utility items-what size/proportion is that foot?

George the plate it 11" and the flat foot which is concave towards the middle is 5 1/2" or about 50% of the diameter. Mike Mahoney says to make it from 50 to 66 percent of the diameter. He makes a lot of utility items and talked with him at a demo he gave. He said you don't want them to be tippy.
 
beautiful platter!
I was apprenticed to Ernie Conover last summer and you are correct, that's pretty much all he uses to finish bowls and plates with. It's one of his favorite finishes for turnings.
 
beautiful platter!
I was apprenticed to Ernie Conover last summer and you are correct, that's pretty much all he uses to finish bowls and plates with. It's one of his favorite finishes for turnings.

Ernie is a really nice guy and is willing to share his knowledge. He told me he has never had a problem in all his years using Antique Oil on utility items used for eating. I figure if it is good enough for him it was good enough for me.
 
George the plate it 11" and the flat foot which is concave towards the middle is 5 1/2" or about 50% of the diameter. Mike Mahoney says to make it from 50 to 66 percent of the diameter. He makes a lot of utility items and talked with him at a demo he gave. He said you don't want them to be tippy.

thanks bernie :thumb:
 
I concur on the base proportions as well Bernie, I tend to form a simple bead on a relatively flat base, only problem that sometimes gets you is when the wood moves after a couple of days.

If I sense it is moving whilst finishing I often leave the bead higher then put it to oneside for a while and then rework the bead to get it to sit better.
 

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