Walnut Writing Desk

Really appreciate your posts Alex, thanks for sharing

larry merlau said:

once again you made a great chapter alex now you mentioned that you normally cut the pins before the tails and in this case you didnt why was that?

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Larry-
I wouldn't know how to lay out the pins first, I can't even picture how it would be done;if anyone knows another way to do angle dovetails I would be interested in knowing that--- I have a extensive woodworking library and I can only think of one book ,an old book published 1923 that shows how to lay out angle dovetails --
alex

Sawing the tails-I keep a piece of sticky 80 grit sand paper on the front of my bench to sharpen a pencil like shown, so I can darken the lines that were laid out with marking knifes so I can see them better



I start the cut at the back side of the end -not much just a couple of short pulls
then I bring the saw down at the angle of the line I'm cutting,this first cut is not deep,less than 1/16"then cut down the line-




I use a light touch,I don't cut on the waste side of the line but I cut the line and if I get off no big deal, this will be the templet for laying out the matching pins,just clean them up good with a chisel--if I've cut accurate the cuts should line up with the marks on the other side-

I cut the shoulder cuts and I'm ready to chisel out the waste-


I have ten of these dovetail corners to cut,today I will chisel the waste and lay out the pins.
alex

Great info, post, and pic Alex!

Nice Japanese chisels and saws too!

If you ever need some more, just tell me, I can get you some local!

Stuart Ablett said:

Great info, post, and pic Alex!

Nice Japanese chisels and saws too!

If you ever need some more, just tell me, I can get you some local!

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Thanks Stuart-I'll keep that in mind---but how about some of that dirty sake (nigori) I'll bet you have a stash of the really good stuff.
My drink of choice.
alex

Alex, in the winter I very much like the Nigori Sake warmed up, kind of a meal in a cup in the summer I prefer a drier sake that I can enjoy straight, on the rocks!

I supply myself with sets of Japanese chisels off of Yahoo auction here (Like E-bay over there) and they are often in need of some TLC, but for the price, you can't beat the deals with a stick!

What do you pay for the replacement blades in you Japanese pull saws?

Cheers!

Stuart Ablett said:

Alex, in the winter I very much like the Nigori Sake warmed up, kind of a meal in a cup in the summer I prefer a drier sake that I can enjoy straight, on the rocks!

I supply myself with sets of Japanese chisels off of Yahoo auction here (Like E-bay over there) and they are often in need of some TLC, but for the price, you can't beat the deals with a stick!

What do you pay for the replacement blades in you Japanese pull saws?

Cheers!

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I drink it cold and all year around-I buy my blades at Highland Hardware in Atlanta-a blade last me at least five years,unless I break a tooth-I pay about $25 for the short blades and $30 bucks for the 9" --- that auction sounds good and I would like to find some off-set chisels--but I don't read Japanese---

alex

edward alexander said:

...I buy my blades at Highland Hardware in Atlanta-a blade last me at least five years,unless I break a tooth-I pay about $25 for the short blades and $30 bucks for the 9" ---

alex

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Alex,
Tashiro Hardware in Seattle sells some very nice blades for very reasonable prices. I've been using his saws for several years now, and find them a cut above (pun intended) most of the others.

Before I start chiseling the waste from the tail boards I have to sharpen a few chisels-one of the chisels I will use has a little chip off the edge-I have been planning to grind it for awhile-this is a good time-all my chisels have been honed down till the hollow grind is about gone-so I grind a few of them (six)-I'm going to show how I go about grinding -first the grinder,I took a little 1/3hp 1725 rpm dayton motor,put the switch on the front, added a threaded extension for a 6" wheel,the wheel is dressed so the center is about 1/32 higher than the edges-the tool rest is from a delta wet dry grinder,I tapped holes in the top corners of the rest so I could add the piece of cocobolo-



to set the angle of the tool rest I use the chisel I'm going to grind-

first I grind the edge blunt,this grinds away any little nicks are chips,this blunt edge will be what I will grind to-


grind down to where the blunt edge is sharp again-I know there are all kind of jigs and contraptions to use to keep the tool straight and square when you grind and hone-for me I don't like messing with them,free hand is faster and with a little practice will be straight and square enough

I like the six inch wheel,it puts just the right hollow grind in -

more to come-
alex

With sharp chisels I'm ready to chop out the waste-this guide bar is steel with 60 grit sand paper glued to the bottom side-it weighs a little over seven pounds,so when you put it where you want it it don't move easy-

to set the guide bar I use the square that is still set for the shoulder mark-

clamp it down-

with the bar in place I start- I cut halfway are more then flip the piece and cut from the other side-to say chop out the waste is a bit heavy,it's lighter than that-you know tap,tap--it's not timber framing-



the other side

trim the inside of the tails


I clean it up with sharp chisels and little rifflers-


more to come
alex

As always, looks great Alex

That chisel you are sharpening, that is one stout mortising chisel, we are seeing fewer and fewer of them around here for sale.

I use an 8" slow speed grinder for my turning tools, but I certainly agree with you that the 6" wheel is better for regular chisels!

Cheers!

Stuart Ablett said:

As always, looks great Alex

That chisel you are sharpening, that is one stout mortising chisel, we are seeing fewer and fewer of them around here for sale.

I use an 8" slow speed grinder for my turning tools, but I certainly agree with you that the 6" wheel is better for regular chisels!

Cheers!

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I was using that chisel because the thickness made it easy to photograph--I also use a 8" wheel for my turning tools but would never use it for chisels are plane Irons-I hardly ever burn a tool with this set-up also when I grind I keep my fingers right there where I'll feel it start getting to hot and of course I have a little jar of water and after three are four passes I'll dunk it-if I should burn a tool it will be at the corner-I'll grind it back blunt past the burn and start again----but that never happens-

rounding off the sharp corners
alex

thanks alex for the detailed pics of how you do it,, i have a motor that is destined to do as you have shown.. much more economical than a brand name specailty rig.. what grit of wheel are you using?

larry merlau said:

thanks alex for the detailed pics of how you do it,, i have a motor that is destined to do as you have shown.. much more economical than a brand name specailty rig.. what grit of wheel are you using?

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larry-it's a 60 grit wheel-

alex

Alex,

Thank you again for continuing the sharing of details that are often overlooked. Always a pleasure to follow your projects.

Regards,

Lee

Hey Alex just wondering how the desk is coming along?