First turning chisels

Ben Lauer

Member
Messages
2
I'm relatively new to turning. I've been turning pens off and on for a while now, but all of my tools (and lathe) are borrowed. I'm borrowing the lathe from a student and the chisels from the shop I manage.
Recently I lost access to the chisels because a class needs them, so now I'm looking to take my first baby step and actually buy my own tools (what a concept).
Should I spend an arm and a leg buying higher quality tools? Or, since this is my first chisel purchase, should I go with a cheap set that sells for 30$ or so?
I do plan on doing more turning in the future and even invest in my own lathe, which points toward buying higher quality tools that will last a life time. On the other hand, money is tight as everyone knows, which would point toward the cheaper option.
I guess this all boils down to--will I get decent enough results with a cheap set and will they last long enough to fulfill my turning needs until I get better ones?

Thanks.
 
Experiences vary, or at least the reports do, concerning so-called 'cheap' sets. I started with one and still have one or two of the tools left. I have no complaints with them. Using them will teach you how to sharpen as it is needed more often than with high quality (expensive) steels.
For advice......I'm a thinkin' as I'm a typin'.....ye know.....I believe, knowing what I know now and starting out with the budget I had....I would do the same thing....buy an inexpensive set and build from there.
Only thing I would do different is that I bought a fairly good set of micro tools. That proved to be a waste. Some might like, but keep in mind, a point is a point is a point. Ye can make tiny cuts with big tools. A 1" skew can be yer nearly 'everything' tool.
Watch for garage sales and classified ads in your local area. I have picked up a bunch of excellent tools and never paid more than $5.00 each for them.
 
I started out and am still using the $40 Harbor Freight set. I have supplemented it with a few more expensive tools that I don't really find to be any better, except for the Dave Thompson bowl gouge I just bought. It's a good started set, and like the man said you don't mind practicing sharpening them.
 
Ben, I'm going to change the direction of this discussion just a bit. My suggestion is to buy the tool that you need. If you are turning pens then a parting tool and a spindle gouge or a bowl gouge are the tools of choice. When you branch into bowls, a bowl gouge or two will certainly be in order. If you go to turning balusters and the like, then you'll want a good skew at that point. Other tools will be recomended from time to time for specific uses. I have them too, but for starting out, you really can get by with very few tools.
 
Ben, I'm going to change the direction of this discussion just a bit. My suggestion is to buy the tool that you need. If you are turning pens then a parting tool and a spindle gouge or a bowl gouge are the tools of choice. When you branch into bowls, a bowl gouge or two will certainly be in order. If you go to turning balusters and the like, then you'll want a good skew at that point. Other tools will be recomended from time to time for specific uses. I have them too, but for starting out, you really can get by with very few tools.

Ben, now we are entering the confusion zone....:eek:
I do quite a few pens. There is only one, very limited, use for a parting tool that I have ever encountered. Bowl gouge for pens? Thet's sumptin' new. Pens are straight spindle turning, fuggit the bowl gouge until ye get to bowls.
Yes, a spindle gouge is needed, I like and recommend a 1/2". As I said, a 1" skew is top priority from git go.
 
Hey Ben...welcome aboard. :wave:

I also started with the $40 Harbor Freight set, and still use the parting tool that came with it. If you're unsure about what you plan to turn in the future, that's an inexpensive way to get several of the basic tools, the the quality of the HF set is OK. Not great, but very workable and you'll get your money's worth from the set. It does not have a bowl gouge, though.

If you already have an idea what direction your turning will go, I'd suggest Doug's advice and concentrate on getting just the tools you need for that type of turning. If bowls are in your future, save some time and money and just get one or more of Doug Thompson's tools from the get-go. If spindle turning is more to your liking, buy a spindle roughing gouge, good skew or two and a detail gouge (Thompson also sells skews and detail gouges).

As far as what tools to use for what types of turning, that's all a matter of personal preference. No disrespect to Frank, but a bowl gouge works great for pens. With the right profile and presentation, it cuts like a skew. A skew works great for pens if you're comfortable using one. A parting tool is indeed useful for some penturning operations (like cutting the tenon for a Flat Top American twist pen). Bottom line is there are multiple ways to get the same end results on a lathe...different folks have different methods for getting there.
 
I have an older Craftsman lathe that was my Dad's & a even older 1930" Delta double duty lathe & a door prize Jet mini lathe. I have the original 8 piece Craftsman set from Dad's lathe as well as I think a 20 piece HSS Craftsman set someone purchased at a garage sale as well as a set of 5 or 6 from Grizzly. I would recommend a reasonable inexpensive HSS set of 6 or 8 tools & a Wolverine Sharpening Jig & Accessories.
 
I don't know how you know what you will like to turn with until you try various tools. Pen turning, I use a roughing gouge and a skew 90% of the time. Didn't know that is what I would prefer until I tried other tools to do the same job.
 
... but keep in mind, a point is a point is a point.

Frank,

I totally agree with you on this. I think the "point" can be extended to the "cutting edge". The blank is spinning round, only one point on the cutting edge is cutting at the tangent. The wood is not smart enough to behave differently in response to what we call the name of the tool that is cutting them at the moment. We need cutting edge of different shapes because of mainly accessibility. A bowl gouge can be presented to wood with the same cutting effect as a skew or a spindle roughing gouge. The only difference is the tool may have to be presented to wood in a different orientation. Of course, a bowl gouge won't be able to cut a tight V cut like a skew. On the other hand, a skew won't be able to do a tight cove.
Bob Rosand uses a bowl gouge as spindle roughing gouge in his turning video. I have seen demos from Stuart Batty and Jimmy Clewes doing the long stem goblets; both of them chose to use bowl gouges to do the long stems which are pure spindle work.
 
thanks

Thanks for all your advice.
I'll probably just buy a cheap set to begin with and work/learn from there...

Thanks again!
 
Frank,

I totally agree with you on this. I think the "point" can be extended to the "cutting edge". The blank is spinning round, only one point on the cutting edge is cutting at the tangent. The wood is not smart enough to behave differently in response to what we call the name of the tool that is cutting them at the moment. We need cutting edge of different shapes because of mainly accessibility. A bowl gouge can be presented to wood with the same cutting effect as a skew or a spindle roughing gouge. The only difference is the tool may have to be presented to wood in a different orientation. Of course, a bowl gouge won't be able to cut a tight V cut like a skew. On the other hand, a skew won't be able to do a tight cove.
Bob Rosand uses a bowl gouge as spindle roughing gouge in his turning video. I have seen demos from Stuart Batty and Jimmy Clewes doing the long stem goblets; both of them chose to use bowl gouges to do the long stems which are pure spindle work.


Agreed. But my advice, for a beginner stands. Wait on the bowl gouge. I have used bowl gouges for spindle work. Baseball bat, rolling pins and some other items, it seems to be superior to my roughing gouges. I think a bowl gouge, in the hands of a beginner on pens would guarantee quite a few blanks ending up in the trash and one very discouraged turner.
 
Ben here is the first set I bought. It has all the tools you need including a bowl gouge. I bought it 3 1/2 yrs ago when I started and still use them even though I have purchased a bunch of new expensive tools since. They are a few dollars higher than harbour freight but I feel it is a more complete set. I agree with Gordon. I use a bowl gouge on spindles more than I use a spindle gouge. I watched Jimmy Clewes, Mike Mahoney, Al Stirt, Larry Hasiak and others use a bowl gouge rather than a roughing gouge. Just my $1.298.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCHSS8.html
 
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Respectfully disagree. A lot of time, which tool is more difficult to learn has to do with what we have been told.
The first Club meeting I went to was a demo by Nick Cook. I was amazed by the versatility and almost no sanding required finish of the oval skew. After the demo, I bought an oval skew and skew turning DVD. Without knowing any better, I started on the skew before a spindle gouge. Of course, I had a lot of catches. But they were no more than learning to use the spindle gouge.
Each tool has a learning curve.
On a tight budget, I may get a stronger, larger bowl gouge to double duty as a spindle roughing gouge. On the other hand, I would never suggest to use a SRG on side grain bowls.
If you follow this http://www.woodworkingchannel.com/dolphin/vidego_video_library.php
link, and click on the AAW tab, the second video by Andre Martel. At about 4 min 30 sec area, Andre demonstrated using the bowl gouge as a roughing tool on spindle. It is worth a look.
I believe there is more than one correct ways in woodturning. Sharing ideas is what forums like this good for.
 
I mentioned a bowl gouge for pens because that is what I was taught to use. I can go from very rough square blank to barrel ready for 220 sanding in just a few seconds. No, I can't make V-cuts or roll tight beads, but for a simple smooth pen, I'll stick by my bowl gouge, either 3/8" or even an 1/2" (Sorby measurments). Plus I've heard fewer new turners complain about being able to learn a bowl gouge over a skew. The parting tool is for those kits that need a tenon or even the barrel turned away. Gives a nice sharp line and is very precise. After all, it's a tiny scraper. I've taught many folks to turn pens. Everyone using a bowl gouge and a parting tool. I stick by it every time I'm asked.
 
I mentioned a bowl gouge for pens because that is what I was taught to use. I can go from very rough square blank to barrel ready for 220 sanding in just a few seconds. No, I can't make V-cuts or roll tight beads, but for a simple smooth pen, I'll stick by my bowl gouge, either 3/8" or even an 1/2" (Sorby measurments). Plus I've heard fewer new turners complain about being able to learn a bowl gouge over a skew. The parting tool is for those kits that need a tenon or even the barrel turned away. Gives a nice sharp line and is very precise. After all, it's a tiny scraper. I've taught many folks to turn pens. Everyone using a bowl gouge and a parting tool. I stick by it every time I'm asked.
I'm going to agree with Doug on this one, I too use my bowl gouge doing pens, I find I can very quickly turn down a pen blank to the point where I have to start sanding with my sharp bowl gouge. I like my skew for this too, but it takes longer :rolleyes: :wave:

We should each do what we are most comfortable with, but, at the same time, not be afraid to try new things that may or may not work for us.

Cheers!
 
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