how do you paper mount?

Frank Fusco

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I've tried hot glue on an aluminum faceplate with varying degrees of success and some launches. I don't like wasting nice wood and eschew screws because I would rather use tenon wood as a foot, or whatever. Have heard some of y'all speak of using glue and paper.
Someone please explain the technique to me. That will make it easier and lazier for me than experimenting. :rolleyes:
 
Frank, I've never tried to glue a blank directly to the faceplate, but instead a waste block or glue block and then screw the faceplate to that. I just picked up some 5/4 poplar cutoffs and cut up some blocks. I've used medium CA glue and accelorator for glue, but others use Titebond or similar.

Here is a photo tutorial I found on the method....

No Chuck Bowl
 
Hi Guys,

I may be wrong but what I think Frank is referring to is glueing a waste block to the blank to be turned with a sheet of paper between the two pieces of wood. The screws from the faceplate are screwed into the scrap.

When finished the scrap is easy to separate by pulling apart at the paper joint.

Regards,

Mike C
 
You shouldn't use paper between a waste block tenon and bowl blank.

You do use paper for split spindles. example: Let say you want a half spindle on each side of a mirror. You glue two pieces of wood together with paper sandwiched in between. You then turn one spindle and split it in two along the paper line giving you matching halves for each side
 
Just glue a waste block to the side that is going to be the bottom. Mount the blank with a screw center and turn a tenon on the waste block to fit your chuck. Shape as much of the bottom of the bowl as you can without interfering with the tenon.

Take the bowl off the screw center and mount it in the chuck. Hollow the inside and finish.

Now reverse the bowl by using a doughnut chuck, Cole jaws or other method and finish turning and shaping the bottom removing the remnants of the waste block and any glue residues. You will lose a little wood from your original blank but not much.

By the way, back in the olden days when I took shop in school I turned a bowl that was glued to a waste block with paper between the blank and the waste wood. A faceplate was then screwed to the waste block. After I shaped the bowl as much as I could which was not much we split the bowl off the waste block and sanded the bottom flat. My mom still has this wonderful bowl.....:eek: I think she keeps the dog leash in it...;)
 
You shouldn't use paper between a waste block tenon and bowl blank.

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Been gluing paper to the waste block & the to the bottom of the bowl for years Ron. Before chucks this used to be the mounting of choice so that it would be easy to separate with a chisel. I've even used 3/4" plywood for a waste block works fine. This is a method they use to teach in school shops.

So what your take on it & why do you recommend against it?
 
Been gluing paper to the waste block & the to the bottom of the bowl for years Ron. Before chucks this used to be the mounting of choice so that it would be easy to separate with a chisel. I've even used 3/4" plywood for a waste block works fine. This is a method they use to teach in school shops.

So what your take on it & why do you recommend against it?

Wood to wood is a stronger joint. Someone who doesn't have good control with a bowl gouge runs a risk of breaking a paper joint with a light catch. Knowing Frank's troubles with bowl gouges I thought he would be better off.

I know many people still use this method, I just believe there are better ways to glue on a tenon to a bowl blank than sandwiching paper between the two.

My question to you is why would you want to weaken the joint between a tenon and a bowl blank?
 
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My question to you is why would you want to weaken the joint between a tenon and a bowl blank?

I've never found it to be weak, in fact I've never had one not take a reasonable amount of work to pop apart with a hammer & chisel. I don't use regular paper its usually cut from a used manila folder, or paper similar to a 3x5 file card.
I have had some pretty good catches with a bowl gouge in red oak with no problems. My personal thoughts are your fears are for naught. If you'd seen some of the things my Dad turned this way you wouldn't be worrying so much.
 
I too, learned with the paper method and have never had a problem, or heard of one, and I've mounted some mighty bit segmented work using it. I say give it a try Frank! Jusyt apply a thin coat of yellow glue to each surface and clamp with a piece of newsprint in between. If your not comfortable with that, glue the wood the pieces directly together, then bandsaw them apart when your finished turning.
 
I have several 2" red oak waste blocks that I use epoxy and glue to my bowl blanks. when the bowl is done I just part off the bowl with a narrow parting tool and then I clean up the face of the glue block with a spindle gouge. The red oak hardly even gets dents in it from my spigot jaws. I have reused one waste block I know 3 times. I am not cheap but if it keeps working I will keep reusing. This would work the same with a small faceplate connected to the waste block.
Good Luck

Alan
 
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Have done this for for most of a half century... The best paper is Brown Paper bags (Grocery sacks) It is thick and slick on both sides yet absorbs the glue evenly, (the hot rolling of the press in the manufacturing process creates a two ply effect so it seperates easily) Simply apply any glue to the sacrifice piece smooth on a layer of paper, apply another layer of glue to the work piece and sandwich them together, clamping overnight (glueup takes a little longer than traditional laminations as the paper absorbs so much moisture, so don't expect to turn the same day. or it may fly off)

Make your turning and then when finished, tale a sharp wide chisel, using the flat side against the work piece, a few taps will start the paper to seperate into two sheets, One on the scrap and one on the work. This will require sanding off the glue and paper residue from the bottom of the piece, If you have a chuck for bottom finishing, then clean up as usual.

If you use a white glue to secure the paper then some work with vinigar water will soften the paper and glue for a slimy release.

This has beeen the staple of school shop projects for many a year, although some dislike it because of the overnight wait or the bottom finishing but it is a way that you can chuck up or faceplate a small piece where cutting a talon or glueing directly to the faceplate limits your possibilities.

Just like all the other mounting methods are not the sole, only, or exclusive method of attaching a work piece, it is a simple alternative to keep in you store of solutions.

As for Spindle Split turning, There is no better method to secure small segments, And they seperate so easily.

Again the secret is a slick faced paper like grocery sacks and package wraping paper, and White glue for easier cleanup with warm vineger water.
 
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Let us assume for the moment that using paper is a good idea and all shop teachers know what they are talking about.

What purpose or benefit does the extra step of adding a piece of brown craft paper between a tenon and bowl blank accomplish?
 
I too used this method at school as it was before chucks were used on wood lathes. The point is that you can spring the joint easily using a chisel or as suggested reverse and turn the waste wood off. Strength is OK in the turning it's weakness is when pushed away from the joint (if that makes sense. Don't try and do it with CA or a quick glue though. Personally I wouldn't use hot glue either as I never seem to get the blithering stuff to stick. Use a proper wood glue and be patient. In school I sem to remember we used cascamite or a glue we had to heat in a a glue pot that stank to high heaven

Pete
 
Well you take some paper see & spread some good wood glue all over the dog's back & apply the paper the add more glue on top of the paper & put the wood disc on top of the glue then take a base ball bat & beat the living daylights out of it. I doesn't do you any good & the dog doesn't like it either:eek::):D:thumb::rofl::wave:
 
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