how do you paper mount?

Well you take some paper see & spread some good wood glue all over the dog's back & apply the paper the add more glue on top of the paper & put the wood disc on top of the glue then take a base ball bat & beat the living daylights out of it. I doesn't do you any good & the dog doesn't like it either:eek::):D:thumb::rofl::wave:


At least the last sentence makes sense.
 
I gather if you're using this glue block and paper method, you don't do any finish tooling to the foot of the piece after separating it from the glue block. Is this correct?

Personally, I prefer a finished (concave, with some definition) foot instead of a flat one.

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You can "finish" it Vaughn, and as long as your waste block matches your foot (mates well together) you should be OK.

I think the biggest advantage of block gluing is not losing thickness of your blank by not needing a tenon.

I understand the idea of using the waste block to avoid losing thickness of the blank, but if I make a concave foot and manage to make a convex waste block to fit it, the paper will wrinkle when it's glued between the two pieces. Doesn't seem like a very robust joint.

Vaughn

You can turn the back side while mounted to the glue block to form the outside of the concave, then using a jam chuck & if need be bringing up your tail stock & turn & shape & clean up the inside of the concave.

If you'd going to jam chuck (or donut chuck) the piece to clean up the foot, then why bother with the paper in the first place? Why not just cut the block away with turning tools (or even a saw)? :dunno: Also, I typically have small feet (2" diameter or smaller) on my bowls, so I don't think I could start the outside of the concave part with the block in place. (Unless I was using a 1" diameter waste block.) If I was making a 6" foot on a 9" bowl, maybe yes, but personally, I don't like that look.

The few times I've used a waste block, I've made my finish cuts as close as possible to the waste block, then used a donut chuck to finish off the bottom, including cutting away the waste block. I just can't picture a previously-glued bottom that doesn't need some cleanup with turning tools after the waste block has been removed. :huh: So for me, the paper would add no convenience, and perhaps add the to risk of the joint coming undone.
 
I've tried hot glue on an aluminum faceplate with varying degrees of success and some launches...

Frank I don't know that I can be of much help here because everyone has given great points beyond my knowledge so far, but, working in mainly commercial carpentry (lots of mcdonald's too) I come across a lot not so average carpentry materials I have to work with... things like corian chair rail and window sills, stainless steel, and a decent amount of aluminum from time to time, and I have never had much success getting a variety of glues to stick to aluminum. I specifically remember a time trying to get aluminum hot glued to another piece of aluminum and it was just nnnooott happening. I have had success with a caulk tube of silicone to get stainless steel to stick to stuff though, maybe that would work well with aluminum also :dunno: It's worth a shot I suppose, but at the same time silicone, even when fully cured, can be a little "jelly" and have some play to it. Now that I've rambled on, it sounds like everyone's idea of the glue block of wood is the better option anyway, just thought I'd share :wave:

How 'bout them Red Sox?

Frank, you could always opt for the double faced turners tape. That stuff holds a ton.

Lol nice Dale try to break up the tension a little. Although it's getting a little heated in here, there have been some good points made. But yeah, can't we all just get along!? :):):):):)
 
It is really quite unbelievable how difficult some of you are making this. It is an age old method that thank goodness we don't have to do since the advent of scroll chucks.

40 years ago when I was in shop class there were no scroll chucks. If you wanted to turn a bowl you either glued a waste block to the bottom of your blank and attached a face plate to the waste block; glued a waste block separated by paper to the bottom of your bowl blank and attached the face plate to the waste block; or attached your face plate directly to the bowl blank.

After shaping the bowl as much as you could from one side you could then remove the face plate and try to shape the bottom. In my shop class that consisted of splitting off the glued waste block separated from the blank with paper and sanding the bottom flat. If there were other options for finishing the bottom, and I am sure there were, we were not taught them. Folks this was the olden days before most of you were born.

Today you could still choose to do all of those things but you have many more options to turn and finish the bottom. You could jam fit it and turn the bottom; you could mount it in a donut chuck and turn the bottom or you could use Cole jaws. I am sure there are other methods that I don't know. For that matter you could just mount it between a rounded and padded waste block and the live center and turn the bottom to your heart's content.

Gluing on a waste block is not the preferred method today but it worked for many years. I sometimes use a waste block on short pieces of end grain stock when I want to turn a box and there is not enough length for me to cut tenons on both ends as I like to do.

Again, it is not the best way but it worked for many years and if you look in some of the older turning books you will see it described.
 
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Mike, this will be for upcoming projects that won't lend themselves to using a chuck for initial turning. If successfull, I'll share later.

Johnson, have you seen the price of that stuff??? :eek:
 
Again, it is not the best way but it worked for many years and if you look in some of the older turning books you will see it described.


Mike, you know me well enough to know I know that.

As we both know, just because it was "always done that way" doesn't mean it's the best way.

So Long Folks
 
paper glue joint

You can use titebond II glue and coat both sides of newspaper to make up a glue block. I have also used hot glue successfully. Safest route is glue block.
 
Frank,
I have been using a paper mount successfully for quite a while. I use brown Kraft type(shopping bag) paper and Titebond II. I glue and clamp for 24 hours before turning. I have successfully used it on bowls up to 10" x 3" hardwood.
I made a Poplar reusabale 'plug' that I mount on the blank and the other end fits into my chuck; the paper disk is about 2" in diameter. When I'm done, a wood chisel inserted right at the paper line and tapped removes the 'plug' leaving two surfaces to have the paper sanded off of.
HTH,
Jerry
 
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