Chuck Beland
Member
- Messages
- 800
- Location
- Rhode Island
I took parts from Cpt Eddie, Wayne Bower & Bill Bolen.
This is my version of the steel snake.
I used 1" square mild steel & also oil impregnated bearings from Enco http://tinyurl.com/clv3q9 for added strength. I also used thrust bearings http://tinyurl.com/d7zp8v in all of the joints for ease of movement. (I also made some washers from UHMW that someone from FW sent me (since my comp burped I lost the info on who sent it) the tailstock side is cut in 4" length & a hole put in the end for a Beal MT2 taper that is held in by set screws. I also had the ends machined to half the thickness & rounded off I hoped this would put it more exactly at the center line also no sharp edge to stop free movement. I still have to make the drawbar for the tailstock side.
Click pic for full size
This is the center it's 12" long
This is the cutting side it's 8" long I do want to add a laser system so I know exactly where it is cutting. It looks like it is going to cut just about exactly on the center line. Now I just have to figure out what cutters I'm going to use. Ron told me what type he uses & I will research what others use.
[highlight]I have to thank Cpt Eddie for his imagination in thinking up this tool. Also Bill Bolen & Wayne Bower for all of their help in answering all of my questions. (I also made some washers from UHMW that someone from FW sent me (since my comp burped I lost the info on who sent it) Last but not least Wizzy for his advice & also for sending me some grade 8 shouldered bolts in 5 different lengths with washers in 4 sizes.So to all of you I say Thank You very much for all of your help [/highlight]
This is my version of the steel snake.
I used 1" square mild steel & also oil impregnated bearings from Enco http://tinyurl.com/clv3q9 for added strength. I also used thrust bearings http://tinyurl.com/d7zp8v in all of the joints for ease of movement. (I also made some washers from UHMW that someone from FW sent me (since my comp burped I lost the info on who sent it) the tailstock side is cut in 4" length & a hole put in the end for a Beal MT2 taper that is held in by set screws. I also had the ends machined to half the thickness & rounded off I hoped this would put it more exactly at the center line also no sharp edge to stop free movement. I still have to make the drawbar for the tailstock side.
Click pic for full size
This is the center it's 12" long
This is the cutting side it's 8" long I do want to add a laser system so I know exactly where it is cutting. It looks like it is going to cut just about exactly on the center line. Now I just have to figure out what cutters I'm going to use. Ron told me what type he uses & I will research what others use.
[highlight]I have to thank Cpt Eddie for his imagination in thinking up this tool. Also Bill Bolen & Wayne Bower for all of their help in answering all of my questions. (I also made some washers from UHMW that someone from FW sent me (since my comp burped I lost the info on who sent it) Last but not least Wizzy for his advice & also for sending me some grade 8 shouldered bolts in 5 different lengths with washers in 4 sizes.So to all of you I say Thank You very much for all of your help [/highlight]
You'll find that can adjust your tool rest up and down a little bit with different cutters to keep the cutting part at centerline. (And you'll learn that making sure things are on the centerline will really help the cutting.)