Personally, I don't like or use blade guards. I learned on saws that didn't have them, so I've never gotten along well with saws that do had them. They get in the way of push sticks or push blocks like the Grrrippers (especially when ripping thin strips), and to me cause more safety issues than they solve. There are other folks, however, who don't feel comfortable without a blade guard, and I fully agree that they should use whatever method works and feels best for them.
I am in the always, always, always use a splitter clamp. ...I have a old Unisaw over head guard that I keep on the saw. But with many narrower cuts I have to flip them back out of the way, but most of the time they are down. Figure if I hit it with my finger I will stop before I hit the blade. I am all for guards but many times they are in the way. That's why I like my overhead guard. I can just flip it out of way and then flip it back down.
I am new to woodworking been doing this since Janurary. Just lately I took the gaurd off my table saw since it seemed to get in the way more often than not.
So should I put it back on? is it that much safer with it on that the inconvienience is worth it?
Thanks
Dan
I am new to woodworking been doing this since Janurary. Just lately I took the gaurd off my table saw since it seemed to get in the way more often than not.
So should I put it back on? is it that much safer with it on that the inconvienience is worth it?
Thanks
Dan
Since we have already hi-jacked Ned's original thead;. . . . like some others, I use the MJ splitter and Grr-Ripper(s) and other various pushing implements depending on the cut. I do have an overarm guard that I use whenever possible but, like others find it only safe when there is adequate material on either side of the guard to allow control. The guard easily swings in and out of use so there is no excuse for not using it when safe.
Most thin or small cuts negate the use of the guard BUT, the splitter and some form of block is always present. The "no finger" zone always applies.
Thanks all for your replies. I am getting very comfortable with my table saw, but I have to admit when I took the gurad off my comfortable feeling decreased quite a bit.
I use push sticks and rarely put my hnads near the blad, the only time I did recently was cutting some 3/4" X 3/8" oak to use as a runner for a cross cut sled. I basically fed in from one side and reached over the saw and pulled it through. I could not figure another way around it. Made me nervious but I got through it
I appoligize for hyjacking this thread but I got some great advice.
I think my guard is going back on for now
Thanks again
Dan
my saws have no guards.
Will it cut a Winnie?
Although I respect the work you do and also have seen fellows who profess to be in constant awareness to their saws and practice keeping the didgits ay bay, I also know some oldtimers who have difficulty scratchin' or pickin'.
I prefer not the new sawstop as I feel it allows complacency with the operator, but I prefer the guards whenever possible. Yes there are times when they are in the way but so are crosing guards at intersections and security guards at airports, it is just something to deal with.
Not having guards requires you to be aware of possible dangers and prevent kickbacks and such. Being prepared for kickbacks is what prevents them, not so much the guards. Simple devices such as a push stick that not only grips the piece but pushes down and past the blade is a great preventive measure.
I would dare to say the instigator of this string had forgotten to reach for his pushing device before starting the saw and may have even been pushing from the offcut side and allowed the piece trapped between the fence and blade to be free floating. I don't know this as fact of the chain of events but I do know as fact that that procedure will cause those exact results (or worse) proven by the nice dent in the fridge door in my dust bowl shop.
BTDT but always with a mind toward the possibilities.
...and after it had cleared the back of the saw and fallen out behind, the tip of the pusher contacted the blade when It dropped down. gone in a blink of an eye.
Just got the new issue of Shop Notes yesterday Vol. 18 Issue 105, it has an article on avoiding kickback.
Dan
Will it cut a Winnie?
.
I believe the trick to operating a saw safely and other heavy machinery is similar to driving a car.
You must never let your mind drift or get distracted.