Cutting bowl blanks

I was reading about Paul's good fortune and was wondering.... How do you go about cutting bowl blanks? I know that it depends on many factors here but in general, How do you cut for a particular size log? I also understand you have to know what shape you want to turn. Up the street there is some chunks of what I believe is norfolk pine that are about 18-20" by about 2-3' long. They have been on the ground for a few months now and think I'll talk to the owner about taking it away for him. :D The max my lathe will swing is 14"
 
While on the island of Kauai, Hawaii, we saw a lot of the trees shown below. They are quite impressive and, I estimate, get to as much as 60' tall. I guessed them to be Norfork pines but found out that they really are Cooks pines.
I saw some turnings from Norfork pine while we were there, it is beautiful stuff with dramatic grain patterns.
 

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Royal, here is a pdf my dad sent me quite awhile ago that shows the best ways to get blanks from logs.

>>>>Bowl Blanks from Log<<<<

Below is an article Bill G. did long ago, but it still holds true, for actually cutting blanks.

>>>>>How to cut blanks from logs<<<<


Thanks for the links Jeff, I've got to try and get that wood before someone else gets the same idea.

While on the island of Kauai, Hawaii, we saw a lot of the trees shown below. They are quite impressive and, I estimate, get to as much as 60' tall. I guessed them to be Norfork pines but found out that they really are Cooks pines.
I saw some turnings from Norfork pine while we were there, it is beautiful stuff with dramatic grain patterns.

Both trees are on the islands here. They do look very similar and hard to know for sure which is which. I've seen photos of both trees growing side by side and couldn't tell you which is which. The only reason I call this one norfolk is one of my neighbors pick up a chunk and said that was what it is. They do turn both here though so if nothing else I can practice on it:D

By the way Frank, in the photo you posted I believe you have both trees! The way it was told to me is the cook's pine is more symmetrical an has more uniform limbs. So I would say the trees on the right are Cook's pine and the one on the left are the Norfolk pine.
 
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Royall, Blanks are cut depending on the wood and what a turner wants to turn. I know one master turner who turns almost all of his bowls in the end grain. Most of the bowls turned from Norfolk Island pine I've seen were turned into the end grain. The conventional turned bowl is turned into the side of a log section. This seems to be the way the majority of turners make bowls. When I cut blanks I usually try to get the best figure oriented so it will show when the bowl is turned. Also the conflict exists where some of the best figure is around limbs which will move the most in the drying process. Turning wood with knots and crazy figure can be a real challenge and often results in misshapen and even cracked bowls. You charge more for those because they are artistic. :D
 
Royall,

I get really lazy about this (like with most other things... ;)

Usually, I just take a log, figure out how wide it is, and cut the round an inch or two longer (in case I slip, or angle the cut). Then I chainsaw the thing straight in half lengthwise, and that gives me the basic blank. Then I cut off the corners on the bandsaw. It's not the best thing to do (you can get some of the middle wood in there, and it moves differently when it's drying) but it works. If I were working with bigger trees, I think I'd do it the way Bill Grumbine showed.

On the other hand, I've never done it the way one of the pics in that other set of links showed, so that the finished bowl has horizontal rings. That looks way cool to me. I wonder why more people don't do it that way? There must be a reason...

I've seen some pics of some Hawaii turners doing local pine. Now that I think about it, that must be how they do it, to get the "eyes" all the way around...

Thanks,

Bill
 
Jeff pointed you to the two articles I had in mind. :thumb: Paul is right about Norfolk Pine...it's usually turned in whole log sections (with the center pith still in it) in an end grain orientation. I think most of the bowls and hollow forms out there were turned after the center pith had been removed, and with the wood in a face grain orientation.
 
Thanks for the links Jeff, I've got to try and get that wood before someone else gets the same idea.



Both trees are on the islands here. They do look very similar and hard to know for sure which is which. I've seen photos of both trees growing side by side and couldn't tell you which is which. The only reason I call this one norfolk is one of my neighbors pick up a chunk and said that was what it is. They do turn both here though so if nothing else I can practice on it:D

By the way Frank, in the photo you posted I believe you have both trees! The way it was told to me is the cook's pine is more symmetrical an has more uniform limbs. So I would say the trees on the right are Cook's pine and the one on the left are the Norfolk pine.


Of course, I planned it that way. :rolleyes: And I wear both a belt and suspenders. :rofl:
At one of the markets we visited on Kauai, I saw this turner with his wares for sale. He was busy so I didn't get to talk much with him. But, the two bowls at the far back, right are Norfork pine. They are incredibly thin, I would say about 1/8". Dunno how he did it without warping. Not sure about the one in foreground, it could be Norfork, was a little thicker.
 
The master turner whom I know uses almost exclusively self made scrapers for end grain turning. He is a retired toolmaker. To get the walls of those pine pots thin I think they shine a light through the side and gage the thickness based on how much light is showing.
 
Royall, Blanks are cut depending on the wood and what a turner wants to turn. I know one master turner who turns almost all of his bowls in the end grain. Most of the bowls turned from Norfolk Island pine I've seen were turned into the end grain. The conventional turned bowl is turned into the side of a log section. This seems to be the way the majority of turners make bowls. When I cut blanks I usually try to get the best figure oriented so it will show when the bowl is turned. Also the conflict exists where some of the best figure is around limbs which will move the most in the drying process. Turning wood with knots and crazy figure can be a real challenge and often results in misshapen and even cracked bowls. You charge more for those because they are artistic. :D

I think you're right Paul. When I think back of all the turning I saw at the woodturning show last month they were turned like that. All very, very thin. Also all the limbs come out of the tree in a circle around the trunk, nothing random like a fir tree or most any other tree.

Royall,

I get really lazy about this (like with most other things... ;)

Usually, I just take a log, figure out how wide it is, and cut the round an inch or two longer (in case I slip, or angle the cut). Then I chainsaw the thing straight in half lengthwise, and that gives me the basic blank. Then I cut off the corners on the bandsaw. It's not the best thing to do (you can get some of the middle wood in there, and it moves differently when it's drying) but it works. If I were working with bigger trees, I think I'd do it the way Bill Grumbine showed.

On the other hand, I've never done it the way one of the pics in that other set of links showed, so that the finished bowl has horizontal rings. That looks way cool to me. I wonder why more people don't do it that way? There must be a reason...

I've seen some pics of some Hawaii turners doing local pine. Now that I think about it, that must be how they do it, to get the "eyes" all the way around...

Thanks,

Bill

Bill I can do easy!:D Love EASY. That's why I have power tools:rofl::rofl:

Jeff pointed you to the two articles I had in mind. :thumb: Paul is right about Norfolk Pine...it's usually turned in whole log sections (with the center pith still in it) in an end grain orientation. I think most of the bowls and hollow forms out there were turned after the center pith had been removed, and with the wood in a face grain orientation.

I've got to take some time and look at those sites I was in the shop until 8:00 tonight trying to get things finished up and laid out for tomorrows work.

Of course, I planned it that way. :rolleyes: And I wear both a belt and suspenders. :rofl:
At one of the markets we visited on Kauai, I saw this turner with his wares for sale. He was busy so I didn't get to talk much with him. But, the two bowls at the far back, right are Norfork pine. They are incredibly thin, I would say about 1/8". Dunno how he did it without warping. Not sure about the one in foreground, it could be Norfork, was a little thicker.

Frank, some of the pine pieces that was at the turning show were so thin you could see more than just the shadow of your hand on the other side!:eek: I just don't know if I'd ever want to try to work that thin. I'd be too upset if I screwed it up:D
 
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There are several processes for getting Norfolk Island Pine thin and translucent. They usually involve multiple soakings and sanding sessions in either something like Danish oil or liquid disk detergent, along with a fine touch with the turning tools. With skilled hands, NIP can be made into some amazing pieces.
 
There are several processes for getting Norfolk Island Pine thin and translucent. They usually involve multiple soakings and sanding sessions in either something like Danish oil or liquid disk detergent, along with a fine touch with the turning tools. With skilled hands, NIP can be made into some amazing pieces.

Chuck, you probably already heard of him, but Ron Kent is a master with NIP and in your neck of the woods. I've had a few email exchanges with him. Very nice and helpful person.
 
Boy oh Boy there is so much info here my head is spinning. I have just been half way round the world and back to USA and ended up on a Blacksmith site. :D

I dont know about you guys but there is so much I would like to try and too little time or resouces to do it all. :(

Sometimes I think access to all this info is demotivating. One things for sure, I will never ever be bored.:thumb:
 
Boy oh Boy there is so much info here my head is spinning. I have just been half way round the world and back to USA and ended up on a Blacksmith site. :D

I dont know about you guys but there is so much I would like to try and too little time or resouces to do it all. :(

Sometimes I think access to all this info is demotivating. One things for sure, I will never ever be bored.:thumb:

Rob, I know what you mean...sometimes I'll go to the shop, get inside and then just sit there, not knowing where to start. Brain overloaded with to many ideas and directions to go, but as long as the lathe is working I'll be just fine. :wave:
 
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