base idea scratched, breadboards were a failure!

allen levine

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If I make a base for a coffee table like this picture(sorry for the rough sketch)
measurements arent exact yet, just estimates.
I want to allow for movement since the top will be glued up maple or ash, not sure yet, and Id prefer to not have any type of clips exposed to view.
The top will be approx 24x56.
If I just put floating tenons? in the stretcher, mortise them only into center board of top, will that be enough to hold the top down if table is lifted by top?
I thought about boring into the bottom of the stretcher, but if the top is only 1 inch or less thick, theres not alot of wood to grab.
Its a learning process for me. I dont want to use a standard apron and legs.
any help would be appreciated.
Pocket joints would be exposed, dont want to put plugs in if I can prevent it.
 

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Allen they make something called a figure 8 cause it looks like an 8. You mortise out on top of the legs and fasten it with a screw , place your top on and fasten it down with the other hole but don't make the screws tight to allow for movement. I'll try to find a picture of one for you.
 
hi allen! based on your measurements in the sketch, i did it up quick in sketchup. i went with a width of 8 inches for your cross brace, and added 2 inches in length for the stopped dovetails. the stopped dovetails are 6 inches, and the remaining 2 inch overlap hides the end of the stopped dovetail dado nicely. i went with the dovetails because they are a good strong joint. as for attaching the top, i'm kind of iffy about that, since in the sketch, you only have 8 inches supporting a top that would be 24 inches wide. to me, that would be a fairish amount of stress on the glue joint. here is what i came up with, with measurements, and exploded. hope that will help.:thumb:
 

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nice sketch dan, looks pretty much what base Im looking for.
Alan, I have a box of the z-clips. they work like the figure 8 clips.
Im thinking there might not be any other way to attach it firmly, eitherfigure 8 or z style clips.(just didnt want anything exposed on underside either, since none of the underside is really hidden)
just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing anything or some secret.
 
only other way i can think of to attach the top, is to borrow from breadboard ends, and drill a couple of elongated holes on each end, secure the top with something like a lag screw, or panhead type of screw, then cover up the opening with a decorative insert.
 
if you use dovetails you could run a female on the cross member and screw a male in the bottom of table top. made it the same lenght as the exposed crossmember and when you slide it down in the legs it stops left/right and up/down movement plus lets you take it apart.
 
putting screws at different locations to secure the dovetail to bottom, will that allow all the wood movement Id need?

Put one screw in the center and the screws on the ends just elongate the holes and when you insert the screws don't tighten them just snug them up to allow movement.
 
Im not sure what Im doing, (but Im having fun), making this base with a table with "American classic", uh, traditionall breadboard ends.somethine like retro meets classic.
Natural birch top, (there were just too many colored soft maples, and I was too lazy to search for all the same colors), walnut breadboard ends, maple bases and stretcher.
Got the top glued up, figured before I destroy it attempting to put the breadboard ends on, might as well take a picture.
Im also working on,at the same time ,an end grain small corner/end/lamp table.
My wife wants all the tables to match, but I told her thats just too boring for me, I want to play with wood and experiment.
Failure is only a little wood on the fire, Im not using large amounts here.
The end grain top, havent decided on a base yet, but I selected the following woods:red oak, white oak, ash, walnut, soft maple, spanish cedar, mahogany, sapele, and anything else I find in the pile thats is 2 inches thick and at least 20 inches wide.
Even if I get the breadboard ends close, I cant cut a large dovetail for the base, I keep trying, I keep failing.
 

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ARe you accusing me of being someone who actually knows what they are doing?(Im winging it, dont matter in the end, Im getting alot of pleasure out of trying to do something new)

If I had any talent, Id follow the magazine coffee table plans with the end grains, but I lack the knowhow and ability to build anything that beautiful, so Im just keen on the tabletop idea "look"

I will try to build it simple, something I can handle. Simple aprons and legs, but first I want to see how the endgrains come out. If I dont like the top, I wont proceed with the project.
 
use simple wooden buttons attached from underneath, they allow for movement, hold the top down, and are quick-n-easy to make.
 
Im lost with that tod, I onlyknow buttons that cover screw holes.
the base pieces on eadh side are going to be 16 inches high, and 2 inches thick, how do I pass a screw the bottom into the table top?
 
I'm not a furniture builder so tell me just to stay out but
I am a little skeptical of the design. I've seen allot of home made furniture come through the shop for repair and we do allot of structure enhancements. This looks like it could use 2 support bars on the inside of the ends, one piece bars that sent into the crossbar. You screw the top down from under the support bars.
 
if I enhance the base, by adding two stretchers, if I 3 cross pieces between each stretcher, I can screw in from bottom of that. Id still like to know what a button is and how to make it.(if its not abutton to cover a hole)btw dave, my wife wants to know why I have this base idea, she wants 4 legs and aprons, says theres no reason to change a table, just make it simple and clean.

Im going to run it by her again tonight, if shes really against it,(she hates to tell me she doesnt like my designs, but Id rather her be happy then my curiosity be satisfied)
 
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thanx tod, dan, those buttons are the same as z clip

If I use 2 stretchers, i can go with those inside or just a cross piece with screws.(uh...buttons are easy and fast, z clips, best way for me to go, just add a stretcher)
 
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