Birth of a shop - The Final Trimester

Marty,

I would use steel I beam or steel pipe filled with concrete, the concrete piers would crack easy when bumped with a side load.

If the your weather is the same as ours in North Georgia there will be little work done outside today, looks like a good day to work on finishing the electric.

Ken

Ken,

I'm thinking 12" QuickTubes filled with concrete, with half a dozen lengths of 1/2" rebar embedded in the concrete. Do you think that still wouldn't be solid enough?

Cardboard is sure cheaper than pipe..:rolleyes:

A friend of ours has some railroad rail on his property that we could avail ourselves of...but that stuff is HEAVY and I have no way of getting it lifted to get it into a hole in the ground...never mind cutting it to length! :confused:

As for today's weather, as you'll see in a few minutes when I finish my daily update, the distance between you and I makes all the difference in the world. There's supposed to be some SERIOUS weather heading our way...but it's not due until late tonight.

- Marty -
 
Decision made on the garage door trim...

...and it was NEITHER the small NOR the large backband:

DSCN5243.jpg DSCN5240.jpg DSCN5241.jpg

I used BOTH the thin and thick backband! :thumb:

Since I already made the thinner stuff, I held it up there while I was making my decision this morning. It then ocurred to me to rip the thinner stuff down a 1/4" to give me the stepped effect you can see in the picture.

Thanks to everyone that offerred up their opinion. You all helped me decide that the small backband wasn't enough. But once I saw the combination of the two, I decided that was the way to go. I like it...and that's all that matters:laugh2:

In spite of the work you can see I got accomplished today, it was very frustrating. What would have taken me 10 minutes with a helper, took me about two hours. Dealing with the molding on top of the door was a major chore. The span was too large to even hang my Stanley Fat Max tape from end to end. I had to resort to this nonsense:

DSCN5238.jpg

I'd climb up one ladder and use a quick clamp to attach the end of the tape to the starting point of my measurement. I'd then climb down, and climb back up the other ladder, holding on to the tape measure as I climbed. I'd get my measurement, climb down, then climb back up the other ladder to release the clamp so I could use my tape to measure mark and cut.

And I won't even bore with with the circus that ensued when I tried to hang about 60-75 pounds of 5/4"x8"x13'8". Comical and tragic, all about 15 feet off the ground....:(

Well, once I got the trim around the door done, I could move on with the rest of the siding. I had to notch and lap the next piece, then lap and cutout for the pier on the bottom. Then I ran the boards across the bottom of the door sill (I had had enough of the high work for a while):

DSCN5244.jpg DSCN5247.jpg

That last picture shows that the thinner backband would have been LOST on that large door. I'm happy with my decision...oh wait, I already said that...:rolleyes:

Ok, so it's only 4-4:20 in the afternoon, and I've quit for the day. What's up with that???:dunno:

Well, three reasons:

  1. I'm out of ring shank nails. I've gone through a box and a half, over SEVEN THOUSAND NAILS, on the siding alone, and will probably need at least half of another box.
  2. I'm almost out of stain, and I only have two more boards pre-stained.
  3. There's a MAJOR weather event heading my way, and it was getting WINDY out there. I'm to the point were everything I need to do now is at the TOP of the long extension ladder, and I'm not comfortable up there to begin with. Add 30-40 mph winds, and did the only thing that made sense. I set the ladder flat on the ground and called it quits! :doh:
  4. I'm plane tuckered out and wanted a break! :bonkers:

Oh, and here's what I face when I go out there next. As I mentioned, I have to find a way to deal with siding the haymow door and the mounting flange for it.

Well, I think I have it:

DSCN5245.jpg

That pictures attempts to show that the haymow door sits proud of the siding. (See that little scrap I put up there?)

What I'm thinking I'll do is rabbet the back of the short boards that sit on the top of the garage door. The rabbet will be at the top, and allow the boards to fit over the mounting flange and close up to the bottom of the haymow door. Then, when I side the actual door, I'll let the siding run a little long, by an inch or two, which will then cover the top of the shorts that I rabbet. This should give me a no-nonsense weather-proof seal, without all that much effort. Oh, and I'll need to rabbet the next board that goes up there, since as you can see, I need to deal with the side of the mounting flange.

Well, there you have it. Yet another day of siding. And there'll be a few more until I'm done.

Oh well...
- Marty -
 
Marty,

If ya'll are getting the weather we got early this morning until around lunch time....bunker down cause it was very nasty!!

I hope it passes you by.

chris

Chris,

That's EXACTLY what's heading my way. The storms from your region sometimes take a more northerly path, which spares us. But this one looks large enough that we're gonna get it.

Oh well, we can sure use the rain...and my shop's all dried in...:D

- Marty -
 
No J-flashing under the siding above the garage door and trim Marty ?
 
...
...
The span was too large to even hang my Stanley Fat Max tape from end to end. I had to resort to this nonsense:

View attachment 818

I'd climb up one ladder and use a quick clamp to attach the end of the tape to the starting point of my measurement. I'd then climb down, and climb back up the other ladder, holding on to the tape measure as I climbed. I'd get my measurement, climb down, then climb back up the other ladder to release the clamp so I could use my tape to measure mark and cut.
...
Been there, done that.
 
Ken,

I'm thinking 12" QuickTubes filled with concrete, with half a dozen lengths of 1/2" rebar embedded in the concrete. Do you think that still wouldn't be solid enough?

Cardboard is sure cheaper than pipe..:rolleyes:

A friend of ours has some railroad rail on his property that we could avail ourselves of...but that stuff is HEAVY and I have no way of getting it lifted to get it into a hole in the ground...never mind cutting it to length! :confused:

As for today's weather, as you'll see in a few minutes when I finish my daily update, the distance between you and I makes all the difference in the world. There's supposed to be some SERIOUS weather heading our way...but it's not due until late tonight.

- Marty -

Marty,

I've seen what you are thinking about tried in parking lots when they are protecting something, if it is bumped into much it will break off at ground level. Check with the machine shop you have been using, maybe they have a torch you could use to cut the rail track with and then use a tractor to drop them in the holes:huh:

Ken:

Ken
 
Marty,

That look's great. Things are really starting to take shape. It's amazing how that siding is changing the overall charcter of the building.:thumb:

Keep up the good work.
 
Marty,

I've seen what you are thinking about tried in parking lots when they are protecting something, if it is bumped into much it will break off at ground level. Check with the machine shop you have been using, maybe they have a torch you could use to cut the rail track with and then use a tractor to drop them in the holes:huh:

Ken:

Ken

Ken,

I can see in a public parking lot that my method might not stand the test of time. I've seen some of the stuff that happens in parking lots! :eek:

I KNOW the machine shop has the capability to cut the rail. But I don't think I have the capabilty (or desire) to man-handle it.

I think I may just go with my method and if problems arise, I'll consider your advice and go with either an I-Beam or pipe filled with concrete. My method is relatively cheap to try. And I don't plan on having all that many trucks coming here...

Thanks...
- Marty -
 
Marty,

That look's great. Things are really starting to take shape. It's amazing how that siding is changing the overall charcter of the building.:thumb:

Keep up the good work.

Thanks Randy...

Not only is the character changing (being formed), but more importantly, THE TYVEK IS DISAPPEARING! :clap:

I was getting VERY TIRED of seeing that field of white out there.

A few more trips out there, and I hope to have the siding done. Then the fun begins...:rolleyes:

- Marty -
 
Marty,

Do I detect a note of the "missing Joe's hands" in some of todays posts? I wish I was helping you rather than dealing with the stuff (insert bad word) that I have been doing this week. I should be out from under the corporate pain by weeks end. I will try and get back down there next week. Do you know how to cook a turkey (don't say it)? I may have some time off for maybe a full day. I will let you know.
 
Marty,

Do I detect a note of the "missing Joe's hands" in some of todays posts? I wish I was helping you rather than dealing with the stuff (insert bad word) that I have been doing this week. I should be out from under the corporate pain by weeks end. I will try and get back down there next week. Do you know how to cook a turkey (don't say it)? I may have some time off for maybe a full day. I will let you know.

Joe,

With all due respect, you detected a note of "I hate working alone" in my post today. Having to go up and down two different ladders, three times, just to take a measurement put me in a sour mood all day.

As for cooking a turkey, I know how. Lead Joe to spa, turn control to boil, and sit back and chuckle.

As always, if you care to venture south, your help would be deeply appreciated.

- Marty -
 
As for cooking a turkey, I know how. Lead Joe to spa, turn control to boil, and sit back and chuckle.



- Marty -

:rofl:

that was great...wasn't expecting that...sorry joe


the 3rd option looks great marty. i knew you'd figure it out.

when you say fun....i assume you mean hanging a bunch of sheets of osb on the ceiling of the shop...how many was it...80? WOW, but i have total faith in you to not only get it done, but to make it look easy and great!!

enjoy your rest
chris
 
Marty, Since I have a LOT of experience backing Semi's up to docks, let me point out that most good drivers will back VERY slowly to creep up against a dock and stop as they feel it touch, (since he can't see back there), but concrete will chip easily and will look like _____, well you know, quickly, (especially since ALL truck drivers are not equally talented).:rolleyes: I would HIGHLY recommend for both the building's safety AND continued good looks, that you sink PIPE 42" in the ground and fill it with concrete. Even if it gets a scratch, a dab of paint will quickly restore it, but the concrete piers aren't that easily repaired, and will also deteriorate from any cracks/chips that moisture can get into and then freeze. I know it will be a little more expensive to start with, but will be less expensive and less hassle in the long run. I don't think you will like the looks of the railroad track rails matched up with your building either. (Just my .02)

If you put the "Piers" 1' away from the door, how are you going to traverse that gap with a dolly or pallet jack when unloading a truck?:dunno: Do you have a dock ramp plate to span that gap from the bldg to the truck? You can sometimes find used aluminum ones that have been removed from service by freight co's that run forklifts across them but would still be adequate for your use, and much less expensive than having one built or buying new, and I'm sure your machine shop could repair any cracks or damaged areas easily.

I'm sure you've already thought of these things, but just thought I'd mention them anyhow.;)
 
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