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Birth of a shop - The Final Trimester

Marty Walsh said:
Frank,

Reading the blurb on the CIL website, it appears that the stain you used is similar to the Olympic Solid I used, except...mine is acrylic based, your is oil based. I suspect there's a difference in the coverage of the two...especially after seeing the difference in the Olympic Oil we tried to use first time around.

I'm not sure if there's a difference between Pine and Cypress in terms of the 'bleeding knots', but that could also contribute to our different results. Also, the Cypress I'm using has been kiln dried. Was your pine?

But then again, my Cypress hasn't been stained all that long. I may have similar results in the near future. I'll be sure to let you know.

- Marty -
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Most of my pine had not been kiln dried but some of it had been.. This seemed to make no difference to the bleeding.
 
Doug Sinjem said:
Marty you said if you get rain this week you'd be moving inside on the electrical. Do you already have a layout for your machinery? How are you going to feed the power to the machines out in the center of the shop or rather the machines that won't be close to walls?

I just did my shop and it's quite a monumental task to get all the electrical laid out and in the proper place. Then again the way you do things I'm sure you've got it all figured out.

Doug
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Doug,

I have almost all the electrical done for lighting, outlets, etc. When it comes to powering the machines, even those that will live next to a wall all their lives, I plan to run 'columns' down from the attic. These columns will house the 6/3 romex as well as dust collection piping. The romex will come out of the coumn and get wired into a fused disconnect that will then power the machine.

I'm working on the actual layout now, and will be attempting to minimize the number of columns by having machines in close proximty where it makes work flow sense.

I agree it's a challenge. I'm hoping my 'colum' method will make it less of a chore, and even if I find that I missed something in the initial layout, I can always add or remove a column here and there.

I'll be posting as I come with ideas...
- Marty -
 
Stuart Ablett said:
Wanna bet he has a SketchUp drawing of it :D

It is tough, I've still not done all the wiring I need to in the Dungeon, and rely on a few powerbars here and here :rolleyes: :eek:

Cheers!
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Stu,

Believe it or not...I do NOT have a Sketchup drawing of the wiring...yet ;)

I've been spending time in the shop spcae trying to visualize where things will go and how work flow will be. That's pretty tough since the only real tool I have in the space is my slider.

I'm not sure if I will Sketchup the wiring. It may not be worth the time, if I can come up with a minimum number of drops.

We'll see...
- Marty -
 
Your electrical code is so different to mine that I won't comment directly except to say that an outlet/connection that you put in today but never use will be a lot less expensive than one that you don't put in until later. Whatever layout you come up with add extra and intersperse them. Once the shop is full of tools its a real pain to do stuff like that. DAMHIKT:(
 
Norman Hitt said:
Boy, it sure is great to find this "Book" again that I was reading about building a shop and I was only about 2/3 finished with.:D You and Denise have really been busy in that time, and it is REALLY taking shape now, what with all the window and door moldings and that nice gray siding covering up that Ugly Tyvec advertising, and LIGHTS with Ceiling Fans, whoo weeeee. I sure like the piling "Treatment" you and Tod came up with and it will really add a lot of Class to the lattice work underpinning when it is done, especially since the pilings would have still shown through the lattice.
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Thanks Norman. I'm pretty happy with what we've gotten accomplished since my updates stopped on the creek. ANd boy am I ever glad to see that Tyvek disappearing!!!! It's almost all gone...well except for half of the back wall, and the entire east gable wall. But those will be going away soon too...;)

You're so close to finishing your gable ends now that it might not be worth the effort, but I had an idea of making a standoff the width of the cypress that you could screw to the cypress about 2/3 of the distance up from the bottom and hook a rope to it and then run the rope through a small pully connected to the top rung of the ladder, then stand the board up against the wall under the ladder and then pull it up in place and tie it off on the ladder. You would then have both hands free to adjust it sideways and nail it. (I'm sure this isn't a very clear explanation although I can see it in my mind). The stand off could be screwed to the cypress close to each edge of the board so the screw holes would later be under the batten, and the standoff should stick out from the cypress board nearly the same distance as the top rung is from the wall, and this would let the board lay up flat against the wall without you having to push against it while trying to nail it in place. Using the rope & pully should be easier than Lifting them also.

(The above was Just another of my hairbrained ideas:D )
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Not such a 'hairbrained' idea, since Denise tried talking me into almost the exact same idea! My main problem, for those of you that don't recall or never read, is that I'm AFRAID OF HEIGHTS!! :eek:

It doesn't matter much what method I use, or what it is exactly that I'm having to do. If I'm up on a ladder, it's going to be slow and painful! :(

As you can see from my post last night, I did the only sensible thing I could think of. I enlisted Denise's hand and got most of the double courses done. I have one or two more to do this morning, and then it's back to (somewhat) lower work to finish the gable end.

Incidentally, I have now "perfected" my procedure I mentioned to you a while back for trimming out the back of drywall where it will be covering a protrusion of some sort that is thinner than the drywall.;) Last week, I had bent some 1/4" x 2" metal strap for hangers for a loft frame that I bolted to the top of some horizontal wall framing that was a combination of a 2 x 4 metal purlin with a 2 x 4 (wood) both above and below it and it was then bent down for 8" and then bent out 90* for 2 1/2" and that 2 1/2" would protrude through the drywall. Since the strap would keep the drywall from mounting flush to the framing and give me a 1/4" "Bump" in the drywall I needed to "Rout" the back of the drywall so it would fit flush against the wall frame, Sooooooo........I marked the area of the drywall 3/8" larger than the strap, cut the through hole where the strap would come through and then used a box cutter to cut the paper (and a little deeper) around the area, then cut the paper away by making angled cuts and popping the paper and some of the "Rock" out and then.......I used my "Neanderthal Non Powered Router/dado cutter" set to 5/16" and cleaned it up. I couldn't believe how fast the thing worked and left a nice clean flat cutout.:D Just thought this might come in handy for something when you get to finishing out the inside of the shop.
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I remember this discussion, and appreicate you bringing this back up. Since my plans have changed (yet again) due to the cost of material, I'll be using OSB on the walls and ceilings. I'm interested to see how much of a bump those hurricane clips actually create under the OSB. If they're bad enough, I can just use a Roto-Zip or a razor knife to partially notch out the back of the OSB. But, I suspect the OSB will lay fine over the straps. We'll see...

PS: I like the Daily updates too, but will settle for whatever you have time for. I hope the weather cooperates and you can get your siding finished before it rains. (It's got all winter to catch up on that raining thing).:rolleyes: :D
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Well, as you can see, daily it is...;)

Thanks...
- Marty -
 
Frank Pellow said:
Most of my pine had not been kiln dried but some of it had been.. This seemed to make no difference to the bleeding.
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Frank,

I think the main difference is in the materials we each chose. Pine is a SAPPY wood, dried or not...Cypress isn't.

As I said, I'll be watching and if I have a problem, you'll know it...;)

- Marty -
 
Ian Barley said:
Your electrical code is so different to mine that I won't comment directly except to say that an outlet/connection that you put in today but never use will be a lot less expensive than one that you don't put in until later. Whatever layout you come up with add extra and intersperse them. Once the shop is full of tools its a real pain to do stuff like that. DAMHIKT:(
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Ian,

As always, you speak the truth, regardless of code differences...

And as with everything else I've done building the shop, I'm greatly overdoing the electric. In that one picture I posted last night, there's a guy in a red shirt standing next to me. That's my neighbor, who happens to be a master commercial electrician. He and I walked the shop last evening for him to check out my handi-work. About all he did was shake his head and commend me. He did question why I had "SO MANY" seperate 30 amp circuits strung about. Because I have the space in the two boxes, and because I can...;)

Once I get back to work on the electric, I'll take a lot more detailed pictures, and supply a lot more details about the choices I've made and the methods I've employed.

But you're certainly right. I'm over-doing it now, while I still have access inside the walls and ceilings.

- Marty -
 
Marty,

What are you going to be doing about three phase power? I'm pretty sure your new slider is 3 ph. I was fortunate enough to be able to steal 3 ph from my other shop across from my wood shop. We were able to splice in to the existing panel.

I thought I remember you saying you couldn't get three phase. So I guess you are going to use a phase converter. The rotary ones are pretty noisey. I have a friend that just got a phase perfect, it's digital and quiet, but pricey.

Doug
 
Doug Sinjem said:
Marty,

What are you going to be doing about three phase power? I'm pretty sure your new slider is 3 ph. I was fortunate enough to be able to steal 3 ph from my other shop across from my wood shop. We were able to splice in to the existing panel.

I thought I remember you saying you couldn't get three phase. So I guess you are going to use a phase converter. The rotary ones are pretty noisey. I have a friend that just got a phase perfect, it's digital and quiet, but pricey.

Doug
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Doug,

Your memory is correct. Well, I "could" get three phase to the shop from the grid, but it was going to cost between SEVENTY AND EIGHTY THOUSAND DOLLARS!!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

I opted for a rotary converter, and plan to put it up in the attic. That's part of what I'm trying to plan as I lay things out.

Unfortunately, pricey isn't an option for me. It it were, I wouldn't be building my own shop! :rolleyes:

- Marty -
 
Marty Walsh said:
Stu,

Believe it or not...I do NOT have a Sketchup drawing of the wiring...yet ;)

I've been spending time in the shop spcae trying to visualize where things will go and how work flow will be. That's pretty tough since the only real tool I have in the space is my slider.

I'm not sure if I will Sketchup the wiring. It may not be worth the time, if I can come up with a minimum number of drops.

We'll see...
- Marty -
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Well what can I say........... I'm shocked..... SHOCKED I SAY!!!!

;) :D

As you said, Ian is right (Boy you do that a lot Ian, please make a few mistakes everynow and then!! ;) )

Putting in too many on you own house/shop is the way to go.

You want to talk about "Different" codes, here is my workshop panel......

panel1.jpg


Well that is half of it :D Perfectly legal here :rolleyes:

I went shopping for a "Panel" and I could only fine comercial ones, or ones with maybe 3 or 4 breakers, or I could paid something like $1500 for a custom built one........ yeah right....:D

Cheers!
 
Steve Clardy said:
I never seen anything like that before.

Especially the wires coming off the main breaker, into a connector, then splitting off to each breaker.
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You and me both, let me tell you, I was NOT happy about it, but the options are not really there.

Trust me I've looked.

I can buy a plastic cover to go over it........ that is what one electrician suggested I do..... :rolleyes: Yeah, that will make it all better, just cover it up :D

Now, another tidbit of info, my father worked for 29 years for the Province of BC as an electrical inspector, all but one of my uncles are electrical contractors, with one even having the license to run the high voltage lines through the forest say to a mining camp etc. so I grew up doing that kind of work. As you can imagine, doing it this way just simply rubbed me wrong :mad:

When in Rome..... :rolleyes:

I'm confident we will see a much higher standard out of Marty :D
 
WOW WOW WOW

My have you been busy Marty. As usual you have been very hard at work. Your dedication shows and the shop is turning out wonderful. The cypress siding looks great.

Just wanna say thanks for the invite, it's very funny because I was getting coffee at work this morning thinking that I needed to email you and see how progress was going and when I logged on there was your email.

Won't be long before you'll be making some good dust in that awesome shop.

Keep it up

Chris
 
Stuart Ablett said:
Well what can I say........... I'm shocked..... SHOCKED I SAY!!!!

;) :D

As you said, Ian is right (Boy you do that a lot Ian, please make a few mistakes everynow and then!! ;) )

Putting in too many on you own house/shop is the way to go.

You want to talk about "Different" codes, here is my workshop panel......

panel1.jpg


Well that is half of it :D Perfectly legal here :rolleyes:

I went shopping for a "Panel" and I could only fine comercial ones, or ones with maybe 3 or 4 breakers, or I could paid something like $1500 for a custom built one........ yeah right....:D

Cheers!
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Stu,

That scares the...well, it's scary looking! I hope at least it's way out of harms reach.

I can't say anything else...sheesh! :eek: :eek: :eek:

- Marty -
 
Chris Mire said:
WOW WOW WOW

My have you been busy Marty. As usual you have been very hard at work. Your dedication shows and the shop is turning out wonderful. The cypress siding looks great.

Just wanna say thanks for the invite, it's very funny because I was getting coffee at work this morning thinking that I needed to email you and see how progress was going and when I logged on there was your email.

Won't be long before you'll be making some good dust in that awesome shop.

Keep it up

Chris
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Hey Chris,

Well, as I said in an earlier post, my posts over there stopped...but my work certainly didn't. And now you can see for yourself, huh? ;)

Thanks for the kind words. Now it's back outside to hang that piece of Cypress I just cut and stained the cut edges of...

- Marty -
 
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