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Bandsaw Blade Supplier Suggestions?

Vaughn McMillan

Vaughn McMillan

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Tod suggested in another thread shopping for carbon steel bandsaw blades based on price, since the different brands are so similar. So, I'm looking for some potential price shopping suggestions. I know the usual suspects...Suffolk Machinery (Timberwolf), Lee Valley (Viking. a.k.a. Timberwolf), and Highland Woodworking (Woodslicer and their "woodturner's" blade). I was underwhelmed with Olson blades, so they're not in the running at this point.

I'm looking for 105" long 1/2" 3tpi alternate set blades for cutting turning wood on a 14" cast iron saw with riser. Mostly green wood, but some dry and real hard. (I just picked up something that I suspect is gonna go through a few blades.) ;) Name brand doesn't matter...I'm looking for good prices. Any suggestions?
 
ellis mfg.co.
800-383-5547

they are a metalworking blade distributor that i use for the carbon steel blades i use, last time i ordered they didn`t carry 3 tooth blades only 4, but the price is right. i order by the dozen, ask where the price break is `cause i don`t remember:eek:
 
I have ordered from these guys, their prices are decent, www.SunbeltIndustrial.com and also an outfit called Supercut bandsaw blades, which I'm using now and like, don't have their site but you can google them. I get the best prices from a local saw shop that sells Lennox stock, but their choices are limited, and sometimes their welds aren't so great, but they will make up a blade for you while you wait, which is nice.
 
Question:
I'm also looking to get a few blades. I'm also very new to any type of wood working & I'm a bit confused. I have a bunch of green wood & also dry wood since I mostly do turning & am starting to do more flat type of work the confusion comes from this.

Type of teeth.
S = Skip Tooth H = Hook Tooth R = Raker Set W = Wavy Set. Positive & Negative tooth???

I don't do any precise work on my saw just general cutting. I have bent a few blades from I think hitting knots & also incorrectly cutting the material.

My questions are

1. What is the difference between the types of teeth?

2. I know more teeth = finer cut but I don't do resawing just general cutting & making bowl blanks.

3. What would be a decent all around blade from my research it's either a 3 or 4 TPI but what tooth pattern?

Any other advice is greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys for the suggestions. Now I just have to pick one of them and order a few. I don't think the ironwood I plan to cut up will be a fair test for any of them. :D

1. What is the difference between the types of teeth?
This page has a pretty good description of the tooth types (although I've notice other sites with conflicting descriptions):

http://www.ellissaw.com/Band-Saw-Blades/8/tooth-types-sets

In general for green wood and rough-cutting dry wood, I think most folks go for a hook tooth, since it's a bit more aggressive. Also important is the "set" of the teeth, or how they are bent from side to side on the blade. For your turning/occasional flatwork needs, a raker set would probably fit the bill. The raker set has one tip to the left, one tip to the right, then the third tip in the center. This pattern repeats for the length of the blade. This helps clear out the chips better and makes it easier to cut curves, as I understand things. You'll also see "alternate set" teeth mentioned by Suffolk Machinery (Timberwolf) and probably others. These are similar, but they simply alternate each tooth between a right and left set, with no teeth aligned to the center. I've had good results with alternate set blades from Suffolk, but I'm probably going to be trying a raker set soon, since I seem to be able to get them for less money.

2. I know more teeth = finer cut but I don't do resawing just general cutting & making bowl blanks.
3 or 4 tpi will fit the bill for both bowl blanks and general cutting.

3. What would be a decent all around blade from my research it's either a 3 or 4 TPI but what tooth pattern?

I think with your saw, I'd want a 3 tpi hook tooth blade with either a raker or alternate set to the teeth. It'd be a bowl blank eating machine, but still behave fine for the occasional flat piece.

Any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Wash behind your ears.
Look both ways before crossing.
Try the veal, It's excellent tonight.
Tip your mailman. :wave:

:rofl:
 
105" long 1/2" 3tpi .............Vaughn .........I use the same and get them from Louis Ittura.........forgot his website but just search his name....he is a guru on bandsaws...........
 
Dan Mosley said:
105" long 1/2" 3tpi .............Vaughn .........I use the same and get them from Louis Ittura.........forgot his website but just search his name....he is a guru on bandsaws...........
Click to expand...

As far as I know, Iturra still doesn't have a website. He does have a toll free number, 866-883-8064. He is very knowledgeable and helpful and is also very willing to take the time to answer any and all questions. His prices are also very competitive.
 
Thanks for all the recommendations, guys. Since I figure I'll be going through a few, I decided to try a couple different suppliers, SuperCut and Ellis.

I ordered two "Hawc Pro Resaw" blades and a "Premium Gold Carbide Impregnated" blade from SuperCut ($16.77 and $23.68, respectively). The Hawc Pro was what the guy there recommended for cutting turning blanks due to the set of the teeth, and I wanted to try the Premium Gold to see if it is worth the extra money. The Premium Gold blade won't be used on the ironwood...it will be reserved for cutting more conventional woods. I'll be sure to post my opinions of both blades after I use them.

Then I decided to call Ellis and see how their prices compare. As usual, Tod was right about them having good prices. Their 3 tpi hook tooth blade is $8.37 for my saw (105"). They have a minimum order of $50, so I stocked up with a few of those. At less than $10 per blade, I can afford to wear a few of these out on ironwood.

Thanks again - :wave:
 
Barry, the guy at SuperCut told me the Premium Gold wouldn't hold up real long against ironwood, but he told me I'd like it for other woods. I figured it was worth a shot, and if I get 2 or 3 times the life out of it, it'll be worth the extra money. Otherwise, it'll be a $15 experiment. :rolleyes:
 
hey vaughn,
how about doing a sqft of wood sliced by each blade `till dull?
i`ve never done that but off the top of my head it seems as though all of the carbon steel blades last about the same to me.
many years ago i used to have morse grind/set blades for me by the roll for cutting radiuses and they would really excell at curves but their life was still on par with the other blades.
now i just run off the shelf stuff in an effort to keep costs down.
 
tod evans said:
hey vaughn,
how about doing a sqft of wood sliced by each blade `till dull?...
Click to expand...

That sounds like a fun experiment. I'd need to come up with a standard way of measuring the dullness, but it would be real interesting to see the results. I'd be real curious to see how a $9 Ellis blade stacks up against a $17 SuperCut blade. (Too bad I don't have a new Timberwolf blade to include, too.) Based on my past experience with your observations, I'll bet you're right. Again. ;)
 
Vaughn any Feedback

Hey Vaughn do your have any feedback to offer since your purchase on Ellis blades. Whats been the experience of theirs by comparison to the others you purchased.

I am looking to give them a try, do you know if they will allow a mix in their order for the $50 min. or does it all have to be one size?

Thanks
 
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