Tackling a Piece of Box Elder Burl

Vaughn McMillan

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Curt Fuller sent me a gorgeous piece of box elder burl a while back, and I thought some of you might like to see a few pics showing the process I went through to get a couple pieces out of it last week.

This piece was pretty odd-shaped, so it took a little jockying to get it oriented with the major burl spikes aligned with what would become the top of the turning. I used a spur center at the headstock end...

Box Elder Burl Progress - 08 800.jpg

...and the live center at the tailstock end. I didn't get any pics of it, but I used my bandsaw sled to cut a flat spot (roughly) parallel with the top where the live center needed to go. Here's the tailstock view after the first few cuts with the bowl gouge. (I didn't use the Ci1 on this piece, since the wood was soft and I wanted to take light cuts. A sharp bowl gouge fit the bill.)

Box Elder Burl Progress - 07 800.jpg

Here it is about 10 minutes later. Looking more round now.

Box Elder Burl Progress - 09 800.jpg Box Elder Burl Progress - 10 800.jpg

Another half hour or so later, I had the outside finish shaped and a tenon made. This wood was relatively dry, so I planned to turn to finished thickness from the start. No DNA soak for this one.

Box Elder Burl Progress - 11 800.jpg

I also still hadn't decided what I was going to make now that I had the blank round, so I called it a night at that point so I could figure out my next steps. I debated making a set of nested bowls, one large hollow form, or some combination of the two. This blank was a great candidate for a set of 3 or 4 nested bowls, but I'm still on the learning curve with my coring rig, and I was hesitant to get too ambitious with trying to cut thin cores. This was too nice of wood to mess something up. I was also intrigued by the spiky top, and wondered how it would look on a spike-topped hollow form.

By the next day, I had decided to make a bowl and hollow form. I still hadn't decided if the hollow form would have spikes all over the top, or if it should just have a spiked collar. Before I made that decision, I still had some coring to do. BTW, the perspective of the first pic below is skewed...the handle on the coring tool is not as big around as a trash can. It just looks that way in the photo. :p

Box Elder Burl Progress - 12 800.jpg Box Elder Burl Progress - 13 800.jpg

In the end, I was real conservative with the coring rig, leaving the bowl walls quite a bit thicker than I needed to. That was still better than making a burl funnel, IMHO. :doh:

Box Elder Burl Progress - 14 800.jpg

After a few more hours of finish turning and sanding, I ended up with my bowl and hollow form. I ended up leaving the entire top of the hollow form spiky, because if I had cut away enough wood to get to a smooth top, the form would have been shorter and squatter than I wanted. Plus, I just wanted to see how a spike-topped hollow form would look. ;)

Here are the two pieces ready for finishing...

Box Elder Burl Progress - 15 800.jpg Box Elder Burl Progress - 16 800.jpg

They're finished and buffed out, and I took pics earlier tonight. I'll post the finished pics tomorrow in separate threads. The figure in this wood is gorgeous. Stay tuned...I think you'll like the pictures. :D
 
Wow is all I can say. How much do you have to hang onto the end of that tool to get down deep into the wood and not have it catch. I guess the tool rest is essential to keep the tool upright?

I thought elder was very hard once close to dry. Do you think the dryness helped turning this design or would it have been easier if it was greener?

Are these tools made with different bowl profiles or they all pretty much the same due to the arc?

Way too many question entered my head here.
 
That is a sweet piece of wood, you lucky dog! And excellent use of it! Bet it's going to look amazing when finished. I can see where that coring rig would pay for itself pretty quickly.
 
Thanks for the comments, guys. I've posted the results here and here.

How much do you have to hang onto the end of that tool to get down deep into the wood and not have it catch. I guess the tool rest is essential to keep the tool upright?

Rob, it's not so much a case of holding on tight, it's more a matter of feeding it smoothly and steadily. The tool rest captures the knife to keep it from twisting (for the most part), but it's still pretty easy to get a belt-squealing catch.

I thought elder was very hard once close to dry. Do you think the dryness helped turning this design or would it have been easier if it was greener?

As I understand it, box elder is a relatively soft cousin of maple. It's got a nice closed-cell surface like maple, but it cuts pretty easily wet or dry. The surface right under the spikes was pretty hard, though. I don't think this piece was completely dry, but I don't expect it to move much, if at all now that it's finished. It may wrinkle a little bit, as some burls like to do, but I don't think it'll warp significantly.

Are these tools made with different bowl profiles or they all pretty much the same due to the arc?

The coring rig I use (McNaughton) has a variety of knives, each with a different radius. Between the shapes of the knives, and the different angles at which you can approach the cut, there aren't a lot of limits on the shapes they can do in the hands of a skilled turner. I'm still at the point where I'm glad to get it done without making a lampshade. :p
 
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