table top finish

Messages
1,456
Location
Central (upstate) NY
I'm about to start making a small table that is going to live in the bedroom. It's primary purpose will be to serve as a desk (and, in fact, it may grow up to be a desk someday) for my laptop computer while my mother-in-law is here for a semi-extended stay. She's going to be probably alternating between living with us and my wife's sister's family a couple hours away until the waiting list ends at some sort of senior living facility (I think it's more like an apt. with extra accessibility features than a nursing home - I'm limiting my question to when is she here and for how long at this point). Anyhow, my wife wants me to have a place to retreat to, so that is the main purpose of the table.

Wow, I'm getting long winded here.

Anyhow, my finish of choice is Bush Oil, which is a one third each blend of BLO, tung oil and urethane. Will this hold up well to the heat of extended laptop use and sweating beverages?

The top is going to be Merlau walnut - I'm sure everyone here knows that this is one of the fancier, more select kinds of walnut that one can find. :thumb:

Thanks!
 
I had, (gave it to my son) a 100+ year old Oak Round table with that finish, When you cleared the table after dinner, there would be circles where the glasses swetted. But by the time you cleaned everything the rings were gone. I loved the finish, after we got used to the ghosts rings.

BTW Dare not put Lacquer over the oil. Never put a solvent based finish over oil, as the oil needs to "breath" solvent finishes doesn't breath so .... Failure will insue. There re those that say but I always.... Blah Blah Blah. but Chemestry and science will prevail.

If you like the color the BLO and Poly provides then you can top off with Poly if you don't want to play the circle game.
 
...BTW Dare not put Lacquer over the oil. Never put a solvent based finish over oil, as the oil needs to "breath" solvent finishes doesn't breath so .... Failure will insue. There re those that say but I always.... Blah Blah Blah. but Chemestry and science will prevail...

How do finishes like Antique Oil do it? It's an oil, presumably BLO, mixed with a solvent-based finish (varnish) and thinners (solvent). Pretty similar to the homebrew Mark's using.

Granted, I don't have as many years of experience pushing wood as you do, but I've yet to see a failure putting a solvent-based membrane finish over a cured oil finish. :) Plus, there are a number of oil and solvent-based finish blends, too.
 
How do finishes like Antique Oil do it? It's an oil, presumably BLO, mixed with a solvent-based finish (varnish) and thinners (solvent). Pretty similar to the homebrew Mark's using.

Granted, I don't have as many years of experience pushing wood as you do, but I've yet to see a failure putting a solvent-based membrane finish over a cured oil finish. :) Plus, there are a number of oil and solvent-based finish blends, too.

I'm using a commercial product that seems to be limited to the Greater Albany, NY region.

Here's a link to the page from the supplier I bought my first quart from: http://www.lakeshorehardwoods.com/untitled1.html
 
Ah, I see...you're using real Bush Oil. My mistake. :eek: My questions to Bill still stand. I really am curious how the oil/varnish products work.
 
How do finishes like Antique Oil do it? It's an oil, presumably BLO, mixed with a solvent-based finish (varnish) and thinners (solvent). Pretty similar to the homebrew Mark's using.

Granted, I don't have as many years of experience pushing wood as you do, but I've yet to see a failure putting a solvent-based membrane finish over a cured oil finish. :) Plus, there are a number of oil and solvent-based finish blends, too.

Those are Oil based solvents. the Solvent based finishes such as Shellac and Lacquer are sealing finishes that will not bond to Oil Based finishes and will not allow the "breathing" or off gassing that continues for long periods of time.

Often appearance is concealing the fact that the Solvent based finishes do not Bond to the Oil based (similar to the lack of bond between unsanded Poly to the next coat, if it is allowed to harden too long), However when Oil is applied over Solvent Based materials, the oil will bond. This is created by the Off-gassing of the Oil (which may last years) and is why shellac and other finishes are often used as sanding sealers, not as top coats.
 
Last edited:
I tread lightly here, not going to offer you any advice other than before you put anything over an oil, you gotta really let it dry well.
Humidity in a shop that isnt controlled, can really delay dry time, just my thoughts, others here have forgotten more than I know about finishing, but thats been my limited experience, alot of drying time before anything else over anything with blo in it.
 
Is your concoction about the same viscosity as Danish Oil? If so, i think it would take a lot of coats to build up a wear resistant surface. On the other hand, i'm always resistant to adding a thick coat of poly or two because it buries the grain under a relatively thick coat of plastic. What i've found works really well is to use two or three coats of the oil/varathane mix to get the uniform oil penetration and preserve the color variations within the wood. Then, for durability, i like a gel varnish or gel urathane. Wipe it on, wait 15 minutes or so, and wipe it off. Let it dry overnight and repeat. The last table i did (black walnut) i used two coats of Danish Oil followed by 5 coats of gel urathane.
I like oil based products because they are durable, yet very repairable. I don't like lacquer because of how fragile it is. It scratches very easily.
This is one of those questions that has as many different answers as there are woodworkers. Good luck with it. Post a pic or two of the finished product when you can. We'd love to see it.
paulh
 
Shellac and lacquer are evaporative finishes that dry rapidly when the solvent evaporates. Varnish and the so called drying oils are reactive finishes the begin to react with the oxygen in the air when the solvent evaporates. The solvents in the lacquer thinner will often react with the oil or varnish,not so with shellac. Shellac is called the universal sealer,and I think it would stick to peanut butter. Shellac is a great finish.

Regards
Jerry
 
I like shellac quite a bit too, but not for a finish coat on a table top. It absorbs moisture, even when cured. Water will stain it cloudy. It will eventually clear, but it can take months to do so. Also, it softens in high humidity. I think it's a great product, but would recommend topcoating it with varnish or urethane to protect it from moisture and cleaning products.
paulh
 
gel urethane? wipe on....hmmmmm.......have to look into this, tomorrow, maybe today. Us brush challenged and sprayless woodworkers might find this handy.any particular brand you would recommend in high gloss?
 
I like shellac quite a bit too, but not for a finish coat on a table top. It absorbs moisture, even when cured. Water will stain it cloudy. It will eventually clear, but it can take months to do so. Also, it softens in high humidity. I think it's a great product, but would recommend topcoating it with varnish or urethane to protect it from moisture and cleaning products.
paulh

what ya using for eithr of these paul.. the gel coats you mentioned (pratt and lambert)?
 
I like Bartley's Gel Varnish or General's Gel Urethane. I've had great luck with both. I'm sure there are other gel products out there, these are the two that are conveneint for me to buy. They build up slowly, not like a thick poly coating after 2 passes. On the flip side, they're a LOT easier to control. There are not drips to flaten out or sanding / rubbing down between coats. I also like the fact that it allows the "feel" of the wood to come through once you're done. Because of that, you won't get a "piano" finish unless you use a filler before the finish coats, but that's typical of most any finishes.

You might pick up a small can and test it on some scrap to see how you like it before purchasing a large amount or trying it for the first time on your finish ready project.

paulh
 
It's ok, Vaughn - I've just gotten too many questions here about what Bush Oil is that I've started tossing out the approximate mix whenever I talk about it. :wave:

Is your concoction about the same viscosity as Danish Oil? If so, i think it would take a lot of coats to build up a wear resistant surface. On the other hand, i'm always resistant to adding a thick coat of poly or two because it buries the grain under a relatively thick coat of plastic. What i've found works really well is to use two or three coats of the oil/varathane mix to get the uniform oil penetration and preserve the color variations within the wood. Then, for durability, i like a gel varnish or gel urathane. Wipe it on, wait 15 minutes or so, and wipe it off. Let it dry overnight and repeat. The last table i did (black walnut) i used two coats of Danish Oil followed by 5 coats of gel urathane.
I like oil based products because they are durable, yet very repairable. I don't like lacquer because of how fragile it is. It scratches very easily.
This is one of those questions that has as many different answers as there are woodworkers. Good luck with it. Post a pic or two of the finished product when you can. We'd love to see it.
paulh

I added the bold to Paul's quote - see Vaughn, you've gone and got everyone confused now! :rofl: Or maybe I did. :dunno:

Never having used Danish Oil, I don't know. The Bush Oil is somewhere between heavy cream and warm fake maple syrup in viscosity. Actually, it's pretty similar to 10W-30 motor oil in viscosity.

I'll look for some gel varnish when I get closer to finishing this table. I'll refinish a canine claw marred threshold with Bush Oil followed by a gel varnish as a test piece before doing the table.

Thanks for all the advice!
 
I was in lowes today, the guy in the paint dept never heard of gel urethane
guess that discount card I got from them has to wait.
Ill try a local paint store that carries a large line of urethanes.
 
There are as many "Favorite" finishes and "Best" finishes as there are fellows to apply them. Each has his/her own "Good Idea" I used to LOVE sprayed Lacquer (and still do) but as an endurance finish it is lacking so I resort to Poly. and with skill I can make it look like Lacquer (without the glass circle rings) You can't do that with Shellac (Oops did I sense a few neck hairs standing on end?)

Try one you like, get good at the application, and go with what best suits your needs and personal techniques....
 
so what would your methods be for applying the poly to look like lacquer?

give us the start to finish that you suggest on a cherry piece of furniture that will see some wear and tear. please,, & THANK YOU:):thumb:
 
Top