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The #5 plane is 14"

The other plane is 8 1/2" if you do not count the little part that comes out under the handle. If you count that little part it is 9 1/2 ".

If it is a #3 is that good for smoothing, and I can use the #5 for jointing?

Thanks
Dan
 
Hey Dan...sorry, but I used to be on the spinny end, but a Stanley #60 should do the trick. A panel face should be planed, not shaped, so a low angle (60 degrees) does a great job without working to hard on angle or depth. Remember, it's 60 degrees from straight up moving down. When time permits, I'll send you some pic's of the old old old Stanley's I've restored...In fact...the urge is hittin' me now...pics in the a.m. and some of the one's in progress of restoration.

Cheers!:wave:
 
Jim DeLaney said:
Actually, measuring the width might be better. The 4 & 5 are the same width - the #3 is about a quarter inch or so narrower.
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Dan Thibert said:
The #5 plane is 14"

The other plane is 8 1/2" if you do not count the little part that comes out under the handle. If you count that little part it is 9 1/2 ".

If it is a #3 is that good for smoothing, and I can use the #5 for jointing?

Thanks
Dan
Click to expand...

Jim's right about the #4 & #5 being the same width. Not sure what you have there, but it does not matter for use. Whether it is a 3 or 4, they are both smoothers. People just have personally preferences that they develop. Since this is the only one you have, it is your personal preference.:D

You bet the jack plane will work as a jointer! I would not get too hung up on specific planes for specific uses. The longer the board the more inclined I am to pull out my jointer, but if I did not have one I could make my do with my jack. No problem.
 
Looks like a #3. You can do a great deal with a jack and a smoother. If you want to get the most out of them, i recommend the Rex Mill website (www.rexmill.com). There's some great information on sharpening and tuning them to get the most from them. If you're not familiar with using planes, starting with a dull tool that's out of adjustment will cause you to pick up drinking and cussing habbits until you finally swear them off after a 12 step program.

Taking an evening to clean up the plane, sharpen it, and finely adjust it will do two things for you. First you'll be really familiar with your tool before you really rely on it to work well. Additionally, the tool will be capable of precise predictable work.

Once sharp and tuned, grab a piece of scrap or two and start going to town. Play with the settings so you know how it responds.

One mistake a lot of people make is setting the lever cap too tight. You should be able to adjust the depth of the cutting iron without loosening the lever cap. If you over-tighten the lever cap, you're puting tremendous stress on the frog casting (the piec the cutter/chip breaker assembly seats on). Iron is brittle and it does crack.

In general, the main issues with tuning a plane are sharpening the iron, adjusting the chip breaker so that it seats properly at the cutting end of the cutting iron, seating the tote and knob snug to the sole casting, making sure the toe, throat, and heel register flat along a straight edge, setting the throat opening properly, and making sure the frog seats flat to the sole. Rex Mill explains how to do all of this. The main goal is to have a tool that can be finely adjusted and works without chattering.

If you wind up liking hand planing, an aftermarket thicker A2 cutting iron and possibly an aftermarket chip breaker will go a long way to reducing chatter and reducing the time between sharpenings.

Have fun with it. I developed a strong appreciation for hand planes after picking up my first $10 smoother at a flea market.

Paul Hubbman
 
Rob Keeble said:
Wow Jim. Next time Loml asks why I need two I am going to bring up this thread and ask you to explain it to her.:rofl::rofl::rofl: What a collection. :thumb: I take it you have no electricity in your place and prefer to do things the old way. Me I support Thomas Edison.:rofl::rofl::thumb:
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Rob,
So far, I'm still having some trouble explaining it to my own LOML. If you come up with some good answers, please share them with me! :rofl::rofl::rofl:

As for the electron killers, I have a lot of them - saws, sanders, routers, etc. - and I use them a lot, but I very seldom complete a project without using a plane or scraper on it somewhere.

Some of the planes in the display don't get out very often, but others see regular use. All my "go to" planes and scrapers live on a shelf suspended just above my bench. They're the ones that really see a lot of use.

Just in case, though, Every One of those planes is sharpened and tweaked, ready for use if/when I need it. Sometimes, my sharpening sessions last for days... :D:rolleyes:
 
with what you already have, a low angle stanley 60 1/2 is the go to block plane for many. they are out there used all over for a reasonable price. and its one that you could defianatly use in your arsenal.
 
Where would I look for a used plane? I do not go to yard sales, and it seems the few times I even look at ebay the cost is more than a new one?

I can get a new Stanley at Amazon.com for $36.30 with free shipping, the ebay ones have 11 hour of more to go and the price will be climbing. :dunno:
 
I have another plane, probably a #3 since it is the same size as the one in my pic but it is missing the blade and chipper. Where can I get replacements for these parts?
 
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Dan Thibert said:
Where would I look for a used plane? I do not go to yard sales, and it seems the few times I even look at ebay the cost is more than a new one?

I can get a new Stanley at Amazon.com for $36.30 with free shipping, the ebay ones have 11 hour of more to go and the price will be climbing. :dunno:
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Don't get a new Stanley, they are just not the same quality as their ancestors. You are located in used hand tool heaven (Northeast). They have giant flea market sales of used hand tools like the Patina in Maryland and others, I am sure. You also have many dealers in used tools. Patrick Leach (author of "Patricks Blood & Gore") of The Superior Works http://www.supertool.com/oldtools.htm is one and I am sure someone on the forum will suggest others. I would stay away from ebay until you have a little more knowledge.

Dan Thibert said:
I have another plane, probably a #3 since it is the same size as the one in my pick but it is missing the blade and chipper. Where can I get replacements for these parts?
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Get Larry Merlau to tell you (and all of us, hint hint on a new thread) how to turn this #3 into a scub plane. I think he owes the forum his thoughts on the two he made from an old #3 and jack plane at Steve's on his Tour DeWood 2009 trip.
 
Dan,

My big plane is a #8 Stanley.

I have 3 stanleys all made in 1929-1932

All three came from Ebay at no more that $35 each including shipping.

I looked and looked for a low angle block plane - ebay, craigslist, antique stores, yard sales, but could never find one.

I eventually bought a Veritas low angle block plane. Cheaper that Lie Nielson but every bit as good.

BTW - the stanleys can be tuned up to perform to about 85% - 90% as well as the Lie-Neilson. If you want - you can get A2 replacement blades. I didn't, but I might some day.

The little plane I showed you was a #3 smother 9-1/2 long x 2-1/8 wide

If anybody has a #1 or a #2 for sale at like $100 or less let me know
 
Dan Thibert said:
Hi Jim,

So you would recommend a low angle plane?

How about this one http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1247 :rofl:

OK so that was is way to rich for my blood:bonkers:

This may be more my speed http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-960-Contractor-Grade-Angle/dp/B0000223QX

Another option http://store.mannyswoodworkersplace.com/1992020.html


Your thoughts?
Dan
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Well Dan, you've posted links to two very different types of plane - smoothers, and block planes.

For a bevel-up smoother, I have and very much like this one.

So far as a block plane, there are several I like: The Stanley #65, the Stanley #60½ (old ones, only) and the Lee Valley block or Lee Valley apron planes. The 60½ will be the cheapest, and the easiest to find.

In another post, you asked about a new blade and chipbreaker for a #3. I like the Stanley replacement blades from Lie Nielson (pricey, though) or Hock (also pricey) A 'regular' blade and breaker is available from Highland Woodworking.
 
Jim,
It is like a squirrel is running around in my head :rofl:

I go from one thing to another.

Those are beautiful planes you showed especially the smoother, before I bought that though I woudl have to make sure I build the dog house I would be living in :bonkers:

That low angle block plane is also a work of art and I woudl hang it over my TV when I am not using it.

This plane is on ebay, but probably not worth bidding for?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stanley-Plane-N...ryZ13874QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Now I want a Veritas plane :bang:
 
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