Let's get the ball rolling.....brick stack and such....

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I'm supposed to build an oval kitchen table for a lady at work. The ends of the table will be radius'd....sound familiar Tod? :rolleyes:
I'm trying to figger the length and width of the boards I gotta cut to makeup the brick stack that Tod recommended in the place of trying steam bending, gluing up veneers and such as that.

Table top width is 38"....subtract 4" from each side for the outside of the radius....that leaves me 30". Outside radius will be 15" and the inside radius will be 14.25". I will need to mortise / tenon join these to the turned legs of the table. I fried my brain while trying to figure out what size boards I needed to cut and make a 22.5º angle on each end to make the 180º radius. Best I can figure...which ain't too good, is I'll need 144 pieces.....4-1/16" long by 2" wide by 3/4" thick. Does this sound right to you?

Should I just wrap it all up in duct tape and call it done? Cutting 144 pieces with perfect 22.5º angles on each end seems like a big stretch of my skillset.

What say ye???
 
hey dennis just grind it up and add some glue and then pour it back into a mold :) figured i exercize my fingers while i found a hole to crawl into here with.. will set back and let the elders take the torch now:)
 
I say that I want to see pics of the process once you get started :D

LOL!!!!! I'll be SURE to take pics and post the process once I get it all figured out. I guess I'll wait for Tod to jump in here and help make it more clear to me on how to figger the math to get the length of the boards correct before I start cuttin up all that wood. :rolleyes:
 
I'm supposed to build an oval kitchen table for a lady at work. The ends of the table will be radius'd....sound familiar Tod? :rolleyes:
I'm trying to figger the length and width of the boards I gotta cut to makeup the brick stack that Tod recommended in the place of trying steam bending, gluing up veneers and such as that.

Table top width is 38"....subtract 4" from each side for the outside of the radius....that leaves me 30". Outside radius will be 15" and the inside radius will be 14.25". I will need to mortise / tenon join these to the turned legs of the table. I fried my brain while trying to figure out what size boards I needed to cut and make a 22.5º angle on each end to make the 180º radius. Best I can figure...which ain't too good, is I'll need 144 pieces.....4-1/16" long by 2" wide by 3/4" thick. Does this sound right to you?

Should I just wrap it all up in duct tape and call it done? Cutting 144 pieces with perfect 22.5º angles on each end seems like a big stretch of my skillset.

What say ye???

Dennis - hopefully tod is better at the math than all of us but for me this sounds like a job for a full size template whatever. I would draw it out on a sheet of ply - full size - then experiment with your calculated value by cutting the pieces out of cardboard with a pair of scissors. It may be primitive technology but having seen guys lay out really complex runs on stairs like this I would always use it as a proof even if I had the maths off pat.
 
dennis, i`ll drag out a piece of mdf in a bit and walk you through the layout...i`m gonna have a cuppa.......or two and sit on my butt and read before i head to the shop....tod
 
okay, gotta little caffine in me.......let me try and discribe the picturers without going to the trouble of explaining each one:eek: ,one finger typing an all...... basic layout tools, trammell points(or a stick) bevel guage, tape measure, miter box, clamps.
first off draw your finished piece, then draw lines 1" toward the pivot point and 1" away from the pivot point. this extra inch each way is scrap but will permit you to fudge the pieces during glue up.
using a straight edge bisect the arcs "yea" far apart, the distance doesn`t matter!
now using the straight edge again connect the two points where the inner radius crosses the lines you just drew. this line will give you all the information needed to cut segments for a given radius.
set your bevel guage using the only straight lines available and measure the distance between the two points describing the "short-side" using the bevel guage set your miter saw to the proscribed angle.
go back to your drawing and measure from your "spring-line" to the furthest radius.....this will be the width to rip your stock.
once you`ve ripped stock cut one angle, flip the board not the saw, measure the short side and cut one segment.......check this against your drawing! if correct cut lots and start gluing `em together....once the stack is to tall and the glue is set use your trammell to discribe the cutlines, then only cut the outer! apply veneer to the overthick substraight then cut to width and thickness......

i`m sure i didn`t do a good job discribing the proceedure so ask all the questions necessarry:eek: .......tod

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EXCELLENT Tod!!!!!! That dawg will "hunt".!!!! :D

I'm going to experiment in the shop with that one a bit today. Thank you so much for taking the time to document and provide the pics. Greatly appreciated buddy! :D :D
 
dennis, glad you where able to make heads or tails out of my couple of cup ramblings.....let me know if you`ve got any questions..tod
 
dennis, here`s a coupla pics of a brickstack glued up ready to be cut on the bandsaw and veneered.......this is a jamb extention for a vinyl window...tod

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Hi Dennis,

I have done a brick-laid skirt on several pieces and like others have said, a full sized template is the way to go. However, when I made the "federal period card table" that is posted at another site, I didn't use any clamps at all. I simply used plenty of good old PVA and did a "rub" fit and allowed it to dry over night. It worked perfectly.
 
Thanks Tod!!!! So I see that you cut the curves on your pieces where I've still got the "corners" on mine. Maybe I need to wack them off?
 
Thanks Tod!!!! So I see that you cut the curves on your pieces where I've still got the "corners" on mine. Maybe I need to wack them off?

dennis, depending on the radius and the material i`m using is whether or not i "round off" the sides.... in this instance i was making a substraight out of scrap baltic birch and the best use of material was achieved by cutting actual radius segments.....if i`m using solid wood most times i use square stock `cause it`s faster to flip-n-cut miters on the chopsaw......this route requires cutting on the bandsaw then chopping the miters "freehand" on the chopsaw.....more time consuming but better material usage out of the plywood......tod
 
Dennis, could you please document what you are doing while you go? I think I understand what you are doing, but sometimes I'm a little dense. Pics would help alot!
 
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