roll top desk in pine

The steel wool is a problem especialy with water based finishes. I have switched to the synthetic pads from 3-M . Between coats I just rough up with 400 sand paper. I generaly will put 3-4 coats on most surfaces except table tops which get a min of 6 coats.

A good finial would be 0000 with wax, keep it in one dirrection and then buff with cotton rag.

Dave Hawksford said:

A good finial would be 0000 with wax, keep it in one dirrection and then buff with cotton rag.

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Do you mean adding wax to the pad like waxing a car? I have some paste wax I use for the tools, will that work? Strokes with the grain?

Don Baer said:

The steel wool is a problem especialy with water based finishes. I have switched to the synthetic pads from 3-M . Between coats I just rough up with 400 sand paper. I generaly will put 3-4 coats on most surfaces except table tops which get a min of 6 coats.

Click to expand...

I'm with you on the steel wool. I'll look into the 3 M products.

I use a good paste wax with Liberon 0000, I would not use any other kind of steel wool.

Ok, everyone. Another question. I am getting ridges showing through the finish . I suspect it is from the sanding phase of the project due to the difference in density in the growth rings. While sanding I felt I was being careful to not over do it and it felt very smooth / flat. Yet, here I am.
To date I have 2 coats of the polyshade, and 1 coat of clear poly. In between the coats I scuffed it with the steel wool (but I will stop doing that - thanks Don, Jerry ).
Is there a way to flatten the finish ?



Interesting what the flash will show you on the same picture ...