anyone interested?

allen levine

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new york city burbs
I have drawn up a cutting list and parts list, and can give an easy step by step instruction to make a childrens adirondack chair.
Ive posted them way back. Ive seen similar styles made out of wood selling from anywhere from 49-89 dollars.
My design, can be made from 8 bf.
I generally use Pressure treated and deck screws, the 1x6s PT in the borg are under 5 bucks each, so it runs me around 10 bucks a chair, or you can resaw a 2x6x8 PT, that runs generally a bit under 7 bucks.
I use 3/4 inch stock.
I have every piece measured up, the cut list made, and so on, but on paper, handwritten, it didnt come out well I planned on putting it on here so anyone, even a novice (like myself)can build a couple of kiddie chairs easily over a weekend, probably in one day.
If anyone wants to play with some computer program and make it readable for general fww use, Id redraw it all if someone will offer to put it in a readable graphic easy on the eyes, like a sketchup, something I cant do.
Its just to share, 8 bf is not alot of wood, and its a beautiful outdoor chair.
these are my plans, I never took any of these out of a book, nor did I ever see a set of plans for a childrens chair, I just made a few samples and waited till I was happy with one of them.
I hit the search button and found my thread on it, I searched childrens adirondack chair, and the second thread had a picture of what I make. I can post more pics when I get home. I dont know how to link the other thread here.

I do know most have their own plans, so not a big dealio, Im just offering something simple, and if you have alot of short scraps of PT, this can be made with mostly short cuts, trash diving kind of boards.
 
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my son is sitting on a beach somewhere in california, when he gets home this week, Ill have him scan and put my drawings into something that can be posted here. Id rather not try to take pictures of sheets, it wont be as clear.
and I can post a picture of each step, or most of the construction.
 
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Add my "yes" vote to the mix. :thumb: I might also be able to help with the Sketchup parts.

By the way Allen, to post a link to another thread, follow these steps:

1. While viewing the thread that you want to link to, highlight the URL at the top of your browser. It'll look similar to this:

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=15363 (That's the URL for the thread you're reading this post in.)

2. Right-click on the highlighted URL and select Copy.

3. Start a post in the thread where you want the link to appear.

4. At the point in the post where you want the URL (and link) to appear, right-click and select Paste. The URL will automatically be turned into a link when you submit the post.
 
I will start getting to this tomorrow. I needed to get some projects out of my hair so I can do each cut and make sure they are exact, I have a tendency to tweak my measurements sometimes as I go along.
I purchased 2 pcs of 1x6 today, treated lumber so Ill go over the cut list tomorrow, then start assembly of one. Then Ill see if my son help me post it up here as a document
 
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It took me a total of 3 hours from start to finish today.
I had to take several breaks from the heat and to work indoors on the coffee table finish, but I timed whatever time I spent working on the chair.
My son told me he doesnt have the time anytime soon to try to put my written plans into any type of structured program, so when he gets home(hes been on vacation for 2 weeks, and hes very busy at work), hell scan it all and put it in a pdf file, and Ill put it here tonight, maybe over the next few weeks someone can make it pretty.
Heres some pics of the build today, and the finished product, only this time I used screws, no pins as suggested.

Theres always tons of little kids playing in front, today because of the 93 degrees, it was like a ghost town, so as I carried the chair out of the garage, I found a 120 lb kid to test it. She told me she thinks I should make the chair higher. I explained its not for someone 5 ft 10.
I also stood on it with one foot to put my clamps back on top, it held me.
So unless there is a 325 lb 6 year old around, I think strength wont be a issue.
Ill have all the measurements up later, just dont know how late. But its all written out and some pics drawn out.
 

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assembly notes:
if the boards are not true 1x6x96, if you fall short 1/4 inch or so, the second board uses all 96 inches, just make the back slats 1/4 inch shorter or 1/2 shorter. Wont make much difference.
After cutting all pieces and cutting the extra angles or cuts, I usually round over everything first.
Dont round over most of the top of the back legs, since youre attaching seat slats, and I dont round over the section of the front legs where attaching the front seat rail. Easier to attach.

first, attach the front seat rail to both legs, 9and 3/8ths from bottom of front legs.
Then attach rear legs flush with seat rail and exact height of seat rail, use 1 and 1/4 inch screws and glue.
Measure up 10 inches from back of rear legs, attach a seat slat.
Attach arm supports flush with top of front legs(I left this step out in pics)
Connect arms and back slat brace(support) as shown, leaving 1/2 inch space, and use 2 inch screws and glue to attach to top of front legs.
 

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place a side back slat in place against arms and rest on top of back leg.
Screw and glue(all 1 and 1/4 inch screws) one screw into back brace and 2 screws into bottom, the rear seat slat(bottom brace)
Attach the other side back slat.
By eagle eye method, place the middle back slat into place, equal between both side slats, and glue and screw into place.
Glue and screw another seat slat snug up against the back slats.
Place front seat slat into place, glue and screw.
Space out, eagle eye method again, remaining 2 seat slats, glue and screw in, done.

a note on front seat slat-since its a bit higher, I usually round over a bit more heavy on rear of slat.

I sand all the areas that touch skin or can touch skin, especially around the front rail where the kids legs come in contact with the wood, very, very smooth. I dont put plugs over the screw heads, but you can if you wish too.
I use stainless steel screws, I like the way they look uncovered.
Makes it more rustic for me, screw heads exposed, but all counter sunk below surface.
 

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I use 3 screw to hold back legs to front legs, 3 2 inch screws to hold arms to legs and arm support.
There are alot of options with shapes and things.
If you want to round over the bottom of the legs instead of cutting off 3/4 notches, thats great. I do it the fast way, and once rounded over with router, it looks close to round.
Arms also, you can round them all around in front, whatever pleases you.
I just cut notches and round over with router, quick, easy, looks good.

If I was making it out of white oak and selling them, Id probably cut plugs for the screw heads if the person requested.
Noone has ever asked me to cover screw heads.
maybe some day someone will actually be able to put this on a sketch up.
 
ok, now in the first cuts of the rear leg, what's the measurement from the lower left corner?


I go one inch in,(from back of rear leg) then cut 20 degrees to match front of leg cut.The front of rear leg, I cut from top corner at 20 dgrees. Then go down one inch and cut to 3 inches from front top of leg. Tough for me to explain.

in the drawings, under the front seat slat drawing, thats the ARMs. forgot to write it.
 
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