Metal Blast Gate Positioner

glenn bradley

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This is one of those things where if you have the behavior, it might help. If you don't experience this issue, you'll wonder if I've bumped my head on something.

My metal blast gates have a little stud knob to lock them in the open or closed position. My DC tends to suck the gate halfway closed if it is not held in the open position. I didn't like bothering with the turn-knob, especially if I were opening or closing the gate with a stick from a distance (as I normally do; custom built stick . . . even too silly to show here).

Remove the knob and get yourself a small barrel shaped magnet and a screw that will fit but not extend into the gate path; that is . . . a short one.

blast gate magnet 001.jpg

Mill your 'precision magnet placement appliance' into the proper dimensions and form.

blast gate magnet 002.jpg

Screw it on where the knob used to be.

blast gate magnet 3.jpg

and now . . . the gate stays closed (it used to do that anyway but it makes this sound more exciting than it actually is).

blast gate magnet 4.jpg

And the gate stays open (it didn't used to do that without turning the locking knob).

blast gate magnet 5.jpg

So, now I'm all happy and you all are thinking of banning me from the forum.
 
Sweet I will have to do this. I always had a problem when makin mold havin the gates rattle shut and chips start spewing all over the floor. Or worse sandin a panel and havin the gate close and fillin the shop with a dust strom.:doh:
 
Great solution to the problem, Glenn. I use the same type of gate but haven't had the problem you described -- yet. All of my gates are horizontal or vertical and the slider moves straight inline. I'll keep your idea in mind if any of my gates start acting up. :thumb:
 
i had that happen on one as well glenn but i over came it but repostioning the gate so it wanted to stay open.. but in your case your mathode works well in any position:):thumb::thumb:
 
With a single 20-foot flex hose that I move from machine to machine, I don't have any blast gate problems. :p Looks like your solution works for those who do, though.

...and you all are thinking of banning me from the forum.

But if we did that, who would we have to point at and snicker? :rofl:
 
Nice idea for keeping the gate from sliding, Were I to approach the delima, I believe I would take out the screw and pop in as small rubber ball (like the space balls used in panel construction) and reinsert the screw (perhaps a bolt and lock nut) to apply some tension on the gate plate yet allow to be pushed in and out with a stick. What the gate needs is som tension on the gate plate to stop the movement (you provide that with a magnetic attraction which can be overcome with a stick The rubber ball will do the same

Just another approach... Thanks for your posting and idea to consider. :thumb:
 
Great idea. Now if they only made plastic magnets so I could do this on my blast gates....:dunno::rolleyes::rofl:

I learned vibration analysis from an expert who started one of the premier vibration analysis companies back in the '50s. We use magnets to hold accelermeters to equipment while taking readings. To take readings on non iron materials, most of the time we use epoxy to hold the magnet, especially on concrete. He always told us if we came up with a concrete magnet that he would buy hundreds of them.

This guy is amazing. He is a nuclear physicist that worked on the Manhatten project for Einstien. His job was to make sure air plane vibration was isolated from the bomb so it wouldn't go off while in flight.

Sorry about the digrestion.
 
Mod to make blast gates "automatic"

I took this one step further. I used door lock actuators and two little linkage arms to build "triggers" to hold the gates open and to close them remotely. Now I don't have to run all over the shop looking for the gates I've forgotten to close. I use a 12V battery, a solar charger and pushbutton switches next to each of the two DC switches. Rubber bands make perfect springs to pull the gates closed (after trying $30.00 worth of different springs). Now when I turn off the DC, I push the putton and Voila!, all the gates are closed.
 

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Hi Gary

First of all Welcome to the family. :wave:Hope you enjoy your stay.:thumb: You find we love lots of pics here so you already dun good.

Now I have no knowledge of a door lock actuator so i had to look it up. I only use one everytime i get into my car eh! Duh.

So i studied your pictures for a long time and i am still none the wiser on how this actuator opens the gate. I can see the bands pulling it closed but the arm of the actuator appears to be screwed to the gate casting so how does it attach to pull the gate open?

I presume the stoke of these actuators is too short to drive the gate directly?

Any ballpark figure on what the actuators cost? I guess one could get them from a scrap car dealer.

This is a great idea you have and by the looks of it could also be wired to a remote control.

My dust collector is currently in the corner waiting for ducting and then i will be tackling this element of my shop fit out.

Thanks for posting. Now you have started I bet there are a dozen more projects you have in your shop you could enlighten us to.:D:thumb:
 
glenn bradley;177338 [ATTACH said:
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So, now I'm all happy and you all are thinking of banning me from the forum.

Why should we? Because nobody thought about it before? We should be not banning you but banging our heads against the wall, ( Well not me because I do not have a DC or cyclone... yet) So I can take advantage of from your post.

Thanks a lot Glenn.:thumb::thumb:

Another less elegant solution would have been bending or curving the gate slightly so that it would stay open or closed thanks to friction and its own springy or elastic properties.
 
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My gates only close automatically - for now

I placed each one (angled it) so they're easy to get to. Some are mounted to the DC main runs and some are mounted on the tools. I'm working on a fully automatic system. The door lock actuators won't work to open the gates so I'm thinking of using a windshield wiper motor and limit switches to open AND close them. Then they'll be connected to current sensor relays on each tool to open when it's turned on and close when it's turned off. The circuit's floating around in my head - now to get the butterfly net and catch it! The actuators are on eBay for about $3.00 each. I have a solar-charged car battery to run them and also my powered "paddle cleaner" for my Wynn Env DC filter. I just finished it and will post photos soon. I've attached the dimension drawing for the two linkages you'll have to make if you want to automate your blast gates. I got my blast gates from Blastgateco.com for $5.28 each.
 

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I've tried - and gave up

The throw on the 9 I have - three different brands but identical construciton - is only 3/4". They have enough power but between bellcranks and such, the aluminum gates bind up. I've tried 4 different configurations and I can't solve the "must be absolutely linear and true" issues. That's actually why I ended up with rubber bands. Every spring I tried had issues - wouldn't stretch enough without distortion, pulled on one side and bound the gate up, expensive, etc, etc. The rubber bands stretch a long ways and it was easy to arrange them to pull evenly.
 
You are a bona fide trip Glenn.

I have a blast gate that buzzes and is very irritating so I screw it down...annoys me yet again when I have to screw it down. I'll look into your solution as a way of peaceful blast gating.

Cheers.
 
Keep in mind when planning a system that automatically turns your DC on and off that you need to consider the manufacturer's recommendation for motor cycling. For instance, Oneida recommends no more than six starts within a one hour period on my 3hp SDG. I have two remote start/stop fobs, one atop my miter saw cage and another on the front wall, so I only have to take a couple of steps to operate the DC.
 
Keep in mind when planning a system that automatically turns your DC on and off that you need to consider the manufacturer's recommendation for motor cycling. For instance, Oneida recommends no more than six starts within a one hour period on my 3hp SDG. I have two remote start/stop fobs, one atop my miter saw cage and another on the front wall, so I only have to take a couple of steps to operate the DC.

Gee Bill, that is an average of 10 minutes between applications, considering the time to do the task and the wandering through the shop from machine to machine, let alone the time to do the task, I shouldn't think that would be a great problem. I guess Mr Peter Rabbit might leap from tool to tool like a Buck in Runt, but this old WWer can't move that fast. Let alone think that fast, Or climb over my junk that fast to get to the next application.

You are, indeed, wise to consider the limitations of the equipment but for most of us, I fear not the cycling restraints. But a good point.
 
Gee Bill, that is an average of 10 minutes between applications, considering the time to do the task and the wandering through the shop from machine to machine, let alone the time to do the task, I shouldn't think that would be a great problem. I guess Mr Peter Rabbit might leap from tool to tool like a Buck in Runt, but this old WWer can't move that fast. Let alone think that fast, Or climb over my junk that fast to get to the next application.

You are, indeed, wise to consider the limitations of the equipment but for most of us, I fear not the cycling restraints. But a good point.

Your averaging approach, while seemingly valid, is not necessarily a "real world" situation. Take, for instance, a series of basic milling operations with a rough chunk of wood.

1) Turn on jointer - face joint and joint one edge - 3 minutes.
1a) DC turns off

2) Turn on planer - clean up the opposing face - 2 minutes.
2b DC turns off

3) Turn on tablesaw - rip to width - 1 minute.
3a) DC turns off

4) Cut first piece to length at mitersaw - 30 seconds.
4a) DC turns off

5) Cut second piece at mitersaw - 30 seconds.
5b) DC turns off

6) Run pieces through drum sander - 2 minutes.
6b) DC turns off

So far, you've taken the DC through 6 cycles for a total of nine (9) minutes of operation. It would have been much easier on the DC to have left it on throughout those operations, then turn it off when finished. The inrush current during startup creates heat. Failure to operate the motor properly can cause failure from heat buildup.

The old "lather, rinse, repeat" might be fine for your hair but I'll heed the manufacturer's recommendation for my DC. ;)
 
Did you include travel time between operations? Inspecting the results of each process, answering stupid questions like these, and all the other mimimal distratching procedures that also occur during the process? Makes it w/i the time frame and a safe operation. I agree, On/Off operation is not the best way to go. Or For instance, the start up of the motor takes considerable more energy than to keep it running between operations. The few seconds it takes to reach over and open or close a gate is not worth the effort & cash it takes to set up a On-Demand system. Of course most of us are not as effecient and as a Hobbiest one wonders about the shop enjoying the process and not trying to eliminate time on task (quit that the instant I retired) I would wager most are not faster than a speeding bullet and would not over shoot the number of tasks per given time.

As I said, a thought worth considering, but I feel a Moot point.
 
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