3520B remote

Kevin Brown

Member
Messages
111
Location
Monroeville, IN(Fort Wayne)
OK a little gloat here, I just got my self a new Powermatic 3520B :thumb:

It came with the remote, but the wiring diagram doesn't match with what is there, does anybody remember what yours looked like?

The schematic shows the white wire from the remote connects to the blue and white wires in the wire nut, and the black goes to #1 on the start stop switch.

The lathe is wired different, the blue and white wires are connected to the start / stop switch at #2 instead of going into the wire nut, and there are 3 or 4 wire nuts taped in a bundle so I'm lost :huh:

here's the http://www.osolnikmachinery.com/remoteswitch3520binstructions.aspx, if that helps
 
Woo-hoo! Congrats, Kevin! You're gonna love that lathe. :thumb: (At least I love mine.) And the remote switch is a very handy addition. I use mine more than the main on/off switch.

Like you, I discovered that the wire colors don't match the diagram. Without opening mine up, I'll try to describe how I did it. I'm going to assume you have a general idea about reading the wiring diagram. The wire colors on the remote switch don't matter at all. The switch simply makes or breaks contact, so the power can flow through it in either direction.

Notice on the lathe that there are two wires coming from the push/pull power switch. You'll see one of them goes to the center tab of the forward/reverse switch, and the other disappears into the bundle of other wires. With me so far? That bundled wire is the one we're interested in.

If you look at the diagram, the remote switch is simply making or breaking the continuity of that wire. To add the remote switch to the circuit, cut that wire a few inches away from the switch, strip the freshly-cut ends, then use wire nuts to connect the new stripped ends to the leads coming from the remote switch. That's all there is to it. When both switches are in the On position, the power flows to the circuits. If either of the switches are in the Off position, the power is interrupted.

I should mention that the actual switch in the remote box doesn't seem to last very long. I wore out two of them within the first year or so of buying my lathe. When the first one stopped working, Powermatic gladly sent me a replacement for free. The replacement only lasted a few months before it died, too. Instead of bothering to get another one from Powermatic, I bought a different switch (another push/pull switch) and mounted it in the remote box. I got a 12v dashboard switch from a boating and ATV supply place on eBay. (I think it was intended for headlights or running lights.) The control circuit on the PM is only 10v, so any 12v automotive switch should work. Mine has worked flawlessly.

I hope this helps, but let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Congrats on the Lathe and welcome to the Musterd club. I can also relate to the time thing. But I am optomistic one day I will loose my job or retire and have time ;)
 
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