can this seat be saved?

Frank Fusco

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Mountain Home, Arkansas
Our kitchen breakfast table is a round antique oak table with four chairs. Recently, the chair I use started sagging. I found that it is virtually disintegrating. The wood is dry from age and simply crumbling. I would like to save the seat for it's antique value and reinforce it so we can continue using it. The seat is a plywood about 1/8" thick and glued around the edge to a small lip. The center is unsupported. I could add a thickness and sandwich the two together but that would make the seat thicker and not look right.
I'm not sure adding something to the bottom would give the strength needed. The seat could be replaced but then we would lose the antique value.
What say the jury?
 

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Since there's no existing support members on the bottom to get in the way, I'd use a thicker seat. You could take a piece of 1/2" plywood and rabbet the edge so it fits on the lip. If you want to salvage the existing seat, you could laminate a piece of 1/4" plywood to the bottom for added strength.
 
Looks pretty much un-saveable to me, Frank. Maybe try making a new seat from 3mm baltic birch ply, and adding some bookmatched white oak veneer to get the original look?

BTW - gained a little weight lately, Frank? :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
It can definitely be saved... one layer of thicker plywood, rabbeted around the edge for the right seat height OR two-three layers with the lower layer(s) smaller diameter to fit down through the hole, either way. Use GOOD plywood for it, and you won't regret it. Don't buy the poor stuff (eg Chinese birch ply, which is shot full of voids). This wants NO voids anywhere.

The rim will be under shear stress, while the body of the seat will be under tension/compression stress. Wood's shear strength far exceeds what you'll need for that seat unless you start piling anvils on top of it or something.

I'm gonna' say that, since the existing seat is only 1/4" thick & it's lasted this long, then 3/8" to 1/2" total thickness will give you a very solid-feeling, rigid-feeling seat that'll outlast the chair's frame.
 
The antique value is already left the building. (I also have four of those in my basement, their value is in the basement as well. ) When the seat gave way, what value there was, went with it. So, Replacing the seat to useable condition will enhance the value not distract.

Replace the seat is my opinion.
 
It can definitely be saved... one layer of thicker plywood, rabbeted around the edge for the right seat height OR two-three layers with the lower layer(s) smaller diameter to fit down through the hole, either way. Use GOOD plywood for it, and you won't regret it. Don't buy the poor stuff (eg Chinese birch ply, which is shot full of voids). This wants NO voids anywhere.

The rim will be under shear stress, while the body of the seat will be under tension/compression stress. Wood's shear strength far exceeds what you'll need for that seat unless you start piling anvils on top of it or something.

I'm gonna' say that, since the existing seat is only 1/4" thick & it's lasted this long, then 3/8" to 1/2" total thickness will give you a very solid-feeling, rigid-feeling seat that'll outlast the chair's frame.

Tim, existing is only 1/8" thick. And the wood is shot. I have to agree with the others that it is not salvageable. I think it would fail on the edges from shear stress.
 
The antique value is already left the building. (I also have four of those in my basement, their value is in the basement as well. ) When the seat gave way, what value there was, went with it. So, Replacing the seat to useable condition will enhance the value not distract.

Replace the seat is my opinion.

Dissapointing to hear that. I recall we paid $125.00 each for these quite a few years ago. But, have to agree, when seat went so did most of value. I'm going to replace. I have a hunk of Luan flooring that might end up as a seat.
 
... I have a hunk of Luan flooring that might end up as a seat.

A PROPER replacement might at least help maintain some of the value of the set. You luaun seat will relegate the chair straight to junk. Please consider doing it right, instead.

3mm ply (actually sold as 1/8") and some veneer would take a bit longer, and cost a bit more, but it would at least restore the chair's appearance.
 
A PROPER replacement might at least help maintain some of the value of the set. You luaun seat will relegate the chair straight to junk. Please consider doing it right, instead.

3mm ply (actually sold as 1/8") and some veneer would take a bit longer, and cost a bit more, but it would at least restore the chair's appearance.
I agree with jim.
 
Dissapointing to hear that. I recall we paid $125.00 each for these quite a few years ago. But, have to agree, when seat went so did most of value. I'm going to replace. I have a hunk of Luan flooring that might end up as a seat.

Ouch! When I started teaching at my last school, the cafeteria had hundreds of them as the primary seating, Then one day they said Replace them and to the dumpster with them. I got 8 in my truck before someone wised up and said "NO! we'll sell them" So they sold them for a few bucks each. I refinished my 4 and quit and sold the other four for $20 at a yard sale.

I agree that the luan is a poor choice, do it right or yardsale it. Get good plywood and as was said, veneer to the correct finish, Might want to pattern with the luan and then use it to make the replacement. I think you will find a slight cupping on the seat as the ply is compressed into a rabbit around the seat ring creating a slight comfort swag.
 
I think it can definitely be saved.

This is a Tonet bentwood style chair, if you look closely at the rim you'll find that is is cut into a spiral, a careful prying would open it by the seam, if I remember well the circle seat would be inserted fron the side and then the spiral rim pressed flat to close the opening.

I remember having six of those at home when I was a kid and this was the typical way they died, (specially due to us, me and my sisters standing on them) my father fixed them and put a diametral stick glued to the sides below the seat to prevent future sagging. This stick should go from the back to the front not from side to side.

Hope this helps
 
repaired, not restored

I went to several building supply stores in the area and couldn't find a decent ply to use. I couldn't even find a decent paneling that might come close to matching. I reconsidered the Luan and thought dark stained it might work OK. But the piece I have is a discard and not sound. Then, I considered the real value in the chair wasn't worth a big expense. And, since my wife keeps the seats covered with decorative pads, I just went and slapped in a piece of non-matching paneling I had on hand. It was a straight drop in fastened with Titebond Pro. Chair is now sound and usable again. And, with pad on, just like old times.
 

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Frank, as you say, "I like simple"

Nice fix and now it can be used for a long time. :thumb:

Thanks. Yep, simple and works. But, to me, the real beauty of the job is that I have the shop and tools to do this with. A few min. on bandsaw, touch up w/disk sander, bench, glue and clamps. Job done. Without that chair would be junk.
 
Great job Frank! and apart of saving the chair the satisfaction that oozes from your words is the best reward you can get. I'm really happy for you.

You see Frank, there is another world apart from spining things:D
 
Hey, Somebody else had the same problem!

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http://thereifixedit.com/2009/11/10/wheel-chair/
 
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