sawstop question

Chris Mire

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Southern Louisiana
i question for anyone who owns a sawstop table saw. i was curious about the fence and how good it is. it seems the fence is an add on so i was curious if i decide to buy the saw if i'd be better off skipping the fence and going with a beisemeyer instead.

thanks
chris
 
Hi Chris
Its pretty much a Bies clone but a little different.
The fence has an additional clear plastic indicator on the left side for left of the blade use.
In side the fence tube there are numerous screws that will push against the fence face which is supposed to adjust any flatness issues in the fence face.
Also adjustments for setting the fence square to the table.
SS tape measure is both also has metric markings on it. I m actually finding having both a little annoying

One thing I liked better about the long tube on my PM (I had PM rails/tube and a Bies fence) was the 3 normally exposed metal areas that the glides on the fence ride against had some sort of coating (teflon??) on them so no rust. SS fence is exposed metal not a really big deal just a maintenance issue to keep the rust off.
In my limited use so far it works just as well as the 2 previous Biesmeyers I've had. No regrets and it matches the saw color:)
Dan
 
Alan Turner had concerns with the fence. I don't remember what the details were but I know he was in discussions with Steve Gass about it. You may want to try contacting him if he doesn't see this.
 
Chris I used the beisemeyer off my unisaw. I did have to drill the table and extensions on the sawstop because none of the holes lined up. It was very easy and the cast iron is soft, so it was no problem.

I would check and see what you can get a beisemeyer for vs. the cost they charge you to include their fence with the saw. If you go with it, it's a nice unit, you should be happy. I looked at the new unisaws, pm2000 etc.

Doug
 
snip One thing I liked better about the long tube on my PM (I had PM rails/tube and a Bies fence) was the 3 normally exposed metal areas that the glides on the fence ride against had some sort of coating (teflon??) on them so no rust. SS fence is exposed metal not a really big deal just a maintenance issue to keep the rust off.
In my limited use so far it works just as well as the 2 previous Biesmeyers I've had. No regrets and it matches the saw color:)
Dan

Dan, I've not had a chance to look at one of these, but would a strip of the UHMW tape fixed to the tube create a problem? http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=902 You could also put some on the bottom of the fence. I would think that it would be slippery enough to provide ease of movement, and it might help keep rust down by not scraping the metal parts. Just a thought. Jim.
 
Jim
I think I'd be concerned about it effecting the fence performance that tape IIRC is actually 1/16" or so thick also I think with the force of locking down the fence would develop dents in it at the pressure points

Like I said not big thing just need to remember to wipe on a little protection when doing the table tops
 
thanks for the responses guys, their is a sawstop on display in a showroom in town, i may get to go check it out tomorrow. i'll let you know what i thought of it.

thanks
chris
 
Dunno if you're interrested in fence systems other than the Bies, Chris, but I recall Per Swenson was real happy with the Incra fence on his SawStop. He wrote a very glowing (and somewhat surprised) review over on SMC a couple years ago. Having used the Incra system on my Ridgid TS 3650, I'm hooked on it, and will likely get the same thing for whatever cabinet saw I eventually get (hoping for the SS). ;)
 
well i got to touch a sawstop today, went to my local louis and company store and they have one in the showroom. man i really want one now. that saw is seriously nice. i didn't get to really "play" with it, there was another customer trying to look at in and i was sort of in a hurry. but it will definitely be on my list when i buy my cab saw. like most people saw it will be worth it just to know i'll never have to worry about losing a digit. even though i am always extremely careful realize that anything could happen at anytime. plus since my dad will be working with me some it will give me some peace of mind. the only way i will not buy this saw will be if i can afford a slider..:D

they have it listed for 2799, that is just the saw, the fence and extension tables were extra. the 52" rails were listed at 369 and the table was 99.
so that would put me at 3270 roughly before tax. a good bit more than a Pm2000.

the finish on this saw was beautiful. the hand wheels were nice and smooth. the fence basically looks just like a beisy to me. it also felt very smooth.

ok, i'm going back to dreaming again.
chris
 
Chris,
I have drooled over that saw many times. one of the local woodworker supiers has oone with thte top removed and from what I can see it is one fnely engineered piece of equipment. The insternal dust collection is great and the rest of the internals look to be of the highest quality. A Cabinate saw is not on my short list but if it were the SS would definitly be at the top of the list.
 
vaughn,

i have never used an incra fence. could you enlighten me on what is good and bad about it. what do you like about it. do you think it would work well in a production enviroment, ie...one man cab shop???

thanks
chris
 
vaughn,

i have never used an incra fence. could you enlighten me on what is good and bad about it. what do you like about it. do you think it would work well in a production enviroment, ie...one man cab shop???

thanks
chris

chris, not vaughn or inca:eek: ...but the bies. fences are in most shops `cause they`re tough and accurate......never seen another fence that could be removed from the saw, thrown across the shop, and reinstalled with no loss of accuracy. plus the square box design makes fitting jigs easy.....tod
 
thanks tod. i like the bies too. and i think i'll go with it mainly because by looking at incra's site it looks like max rip capacity is around 32"...that is not enough, i need at least 49 or better.

seriously considering passing on the sawstop and saving my duckies for MM's smallest slider. sure it's 2 grand more than the sawstop (my official qoute was 3900 on SS) but a slider can do so much more. decisions decisions

need to call MM and find out if that slider has the capability to cross cut 4x8 using the slider cross cut fence. maybe sam will see this and answer my question. ;) (i'm referring to the SC3 W sliding table saw)

for now it will be a cheaper saw with a bies type fence prolly. till i know i have the work comin in the door really good and can afford to let go of that kinda dough. gotta start somewhere i guess.

thanks
chris
 
chris, most of the ol` timers (i ain`t old!)....started on p/m 65-66 or unisaws...lots of folks are still banging away on `em.....same saw 20+years....the olivers,northfields-n-martins where sold to industry.....not small shops.....as industry outgrew them they trickled down to the smaller shops...now sliders are trickling down, infact some are being geared to small shops `cause industry has gone to beamsaws and cnc machines......if i where a youngster just starting up shop i`d look for a good ol` american made p/m or unisaw, build tables around it put a good fence on it and build stuff for several years.....figure out what equipment you need to make money......then look to upgrade........only my .02;) tod
 
good advice tod,

the question is, what year model unis and pms are american made? until 2 years ago when i found SMC i thought they were all american made. i have to admit, i don't have a problem with just using a good cab saw with extension tables reminiscent of aircraft carriers. it's what i am used to. so i know i'd feel comfortable doing that. if i could find an old uni or pm in good shape i'd buy it in a heartbeat. so, gimme them years to look for if you know em, and i suspect u do

thanks much
chris
 
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