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Looking For table saw blade

I got the freud premier fusion for Christmas, I haven't had a chance to use it a whole lot but I was messing with it today and it seems that I am getting more blade marks than I was anticipating. I measured the fence to blade alignment and the is near perfectly parallel, its a few thousandths wide at the rear of the fence, blade runout seems to be good. I didn't measure to the side of the teeth just to the blade. Maybe I should measure the teeth. From reviews I saw it should leave a glass smooth cut so I was kinda disappointed to see the teeth marks. Any thoughts. I am using the blade on my new sawstop pro cabinet model.
 
Dave Black said:
I got the freud premier fusion for Christmas, I haven't had a chance to use it a whole lot but I was messing with it today and it seems that I am getting more blade marks than I was anticipating. I measured the fence to blade alignment and the is near perfectly parallel, its a few thousandths wide at the rear of the fence, blade runout seems to be good. I didn't measure to the side of the teeth just to the blade. Maybe I should measure the teeth. From reviews I saw it should leave a glass smooth cut so I was kinda disappointed to see the teeth marks. Any thoughts. I am using the blade on my new sawstop pro cabinet model.
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Dave is your blade parallel to the miter slot?? Do you use a stabilizer on the the blade? I started using them 20 years ago and that was the best money ever spent I will never have a table saw without them.
 
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Jay Caughron said:
Bob is you blade parallel to the miter slot?? Do you use a stabilizer on the the blade? I started using them 20 years ago and that was the best money ever spent I will never have a table saw without them.
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The blade is parallel to the slot, I am not using a stabilizer, Maybe a bad blade?
 
Dave Black said:
The blade is parallel to the slot, I am not using a stabilizer, Maybe a bad blade?
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The stabilizer will make the difference I have a freud set now and they work but they do move the blade over to much for my liking the best one I have had is one that I bought form Forrest it only uses 1 on the out side and it works great. Some folks worry about it not letting them cut thick boards but I never had a problem with them and I cut 2 1/2 " + stock 1/8" wide all the time for organ pipes and almost always have a smooth cut no mater what blade I use or wood I cut.
 
Dave Black said:
it seems that I am getting more blade marks than I was anticipating.
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Be sure to A/B that test with slices off the same edge of the same board while swapping between blades. Stress release in a board can cause different performance on and off, even in the same board. What I'm saying is don't make a few cuts and determine what's what.

Make several cuts with different material. This will save you from undoing anything you did to fix a problem that you cannot control; DAMHIKT. I generally get glue line rips but the occasional stress release will cause less than optimum results. This doesn't mean my saw went out of alignment or that the blade is fouled; it's just the movement of the material.

I ran stabilizers for years and have nothing against them. I run TK blades as I have a sub-2HP saw so stabilizers were logical. During my last major saw PM/re-alignment I ran extensive tests with and without the stabilizers. As I say; I have nothing against them, its just that I was about to make a whole new batch of ZCI's and sled inserts after the alignment effort and wanted to be sure which way I was going to go.

I could get no difference in performance with or without the stabilizers and so went without but, they are hanging right on the blade rack in case I should want to use them. They are inexpensive enough to grab a set to test to your own conclusion. They just can't be easily used and not-used if you run sleds and ZCI's. The offset of the fence cursor also annoys some folks when switching back and forth although when I used them I just always used them. Try them out and then set your saw, ZCI's and such up for your preference.
 
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I have a lot of blades.

I had a fusion blade but accidently ( metal on metal my fault ) fired my SawStop and it broke a carbide tip. ( I later learned from my Woodcraft dealer, that I should have brought it in and he thinks Freud would have replaced it. )

This is my latest. It is a Ridge from woodpeck.com. Link You need to make sure you are on Woodpeck.com mailing list. This comes across at $10 - $15 off on some eMail specials.

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Also, I have tried these from Harbor Freight and have been very surprised! Link

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The HF looks a lot like this one.. those sneaky Chinese factories

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I have tried 2 other blades but I am still getting teeth marks. I was checking the side of the teeth on the premier fusion blade with a dial indicator and I realized that the arbor would flex in relation to the table if I put pressure on it. I called sawstop and they weren't really sure what the problem was, the tech I talked to walked out in their shop with a cordless phone while he was talking to me and was checking one of the saws they have there. He said that it would flex some when he put pressure on it so it sounds like it may be like mine. I am not sure if the flexing is what is causing the poor cut quality. The tech said that with the blade spinning at 4000 RPM there is so much gyrotational (is that a word?) force that the blade doesn't want to move side to side. If anyone else has a sawstop it would be nice to have a comparison to gauge if mine has more flex than normal. I am not sure what else to check, the tech said he was going to talk to the engineering department and call me back... so I wait... in agony... mildly depressed...but not too bad, because I am reading Chris Schwarz' book on workbenches.
 
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