Small Wall Cabinet - Pic Heavy

glenn bradley

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Its funny how involved a small project can get when you are trying out new (to me) techniques. I got the idea in me to make LOML's daughter's Christmas present with sliding dovetails. Materials are mahogany, cherry and ash.

a-NWC DT 1.jpg

The top uses a distinct profile that allowed me to make use of my bowl bit. I felt good about this as I only made one bowl and kind of lost interest in that process (for now). This would be one of those times a miter gauge is nice on the RT.

b-NWC Top profile 4.jpgc-NWC Top Profile 1.jpgd-NWC Top profile 2.jpge-NWC Top profile 3.jpg

The bottom offsets the top profile with a simple 5* bevel down and away from the body (love that sander).

f-NWC Bottom angle-1.jpgg-NWC Bottom angle-2.jpg

The ends of the sides and the shelf all get the same treatment to their dovetail profiles. This rounded step allows the appearance I was after at the front. Downside is, after assembly, the sliding dovetails will be my secret as there will be little evidence of them.

h-NWC DT rounding-01.jpgi-NWC DT rounding-02.jpgj-NWC DT rounding-03.jpg

Right about now some of you may be thankful for that new "excluding" feature on the New Posts button because, there's more . . .
 
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Small Wall Cabinet - Cont'd

Here's how the rear (DT showing) and the (flush) looks with the sliding dovetail seated on a joint.

k-NWC DT rounding-04.jpgl-NWC DT rounding-05.jpg

I temporarily assembled part of the carcass and used the router table to create a 1/4" x 3/4" rabbet around the rear. This will provide the inset for the sectioned back panel and an area to hide the french cleat that will hold it to the wall. There was a bit of hand work here to clean up the areas that the tailed tools couldn't reach without more trouble than it was worth. Love that LV shoulder plane.

m-NWC rabbet back-1.jpgn-NWC rabbet back-2.jpgo-NWC rabbet back-3.jpgp-NWC rabbet back-4.jpg

As I am getting ready to apply the first finish steps I got a chuckle out of how much this thing looks like some kind of puzzle to be assembled. The slats are made of ash and will be recessed and pinned across the back. The dark areas are from a mineral spirits wipe I was doing just prior to starting the finish. I'm in posting this while waiting for it to dry ;-)

I'll post more as I get to the solid cherry door and the custom pull.
 

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sliding DTail stock is 3/4" right? wanted to use that jint on a project but had 1/2" stock and it didnt work.. unless they make a smaller DTail bit than what i had..
 
Glenn I really enjoy your posts, they are so inspiring.:thumb: You have it down pat. Looks like you are at the stage with your setup that you can focus on the project and make real good progress with your shop time. I envy you having everything setup to go. :D
 
sliding DTail stock is 3/4" right? wanted to use that jint on a project but had 1/2" stock and it didnt work.. unless they make a smaller DTail bit than what i had..

Hi Larry,

All 1/2" stock (except the back panels), 3/8" x 3/8" x 9* DT bit, Whiteside 1/2" shank, D9-376. I got the bit made for the Incra system as it is longer, costs only a few cents more and allows more shank in the collet for his little bity head ;-)
 
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Small Wall Cabinet - Finishing Steps

I always think of finishing as being one of the two phases where I can really mess up when doing a piece. The other phase is the glue up. :rolleyes: As this piece will be mostly finished prior to assembly, I get to try to mess up the finish first :).

I did several test pieces as mahogany can come out a bit orange and I am trying to fit in with an existing bedroom set. I am not trying to match the existing items but I don't want to clash either.

I used Transtint 'medium brown', 'reddish brown' and a bit of 'lemon yellow' to get what I was after. Any of you who use dyes (I mix with alcohol) know how flat they can appear prior to topcoat. Despite knowing this is characteristic, it always causes me some anxiety. :huh:

Here's the freshly touch-sanded pieces bare and with the first of two applications of my dye mix:

u-NWC Finishing Steps.jpgv-NWC Finishing Steps.jpg

After an initial 2lb cut shellac padding I am closer to the results on my test scrap.

w-NWC Finishing Steps.jpg

Another coat of shellac and I have the color I am after.

x-NWC Finishing Steps.jpg
 
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Thanks Rob. Hey, since I got the scroll saw I've found something to do between coats of shellac. This is the 3rd item I've made so my experience level is still very beginner.
 

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Small Wall Cabinet - Assembly Begins

Well, I've spent enough time stuffing myself with Turkey and all the leftovers that the season creates. Here's the carcass glue up:

y-NWC no back or door.jpg

Add the shelf; boy those bar-gauge-heads come in handy for making sure everything is square:

01-NWC-no-back-bar-gauge.jpg

The color in the pic is poor but I was playing with the lighting, trying to show the back-slats:

02-NWC backing no door.jpg

I cut up some material for the french cleat; another great place to use the Grr-Ripper:

03-NWC cleats.jpg

This shows the cleat attached and the less attractive side of the back-slats:

04-NWC-back-and-cleat.jpg

I'm putting the final coats on the door and should post completed pics tomorrow if all goes well.
 
That's looking great, Glenn. :thumb:

So what's this about a bowl bit? :huh: Do you have some hidden inner hankering to make bowls? :p I can cure you of that. :rofl:
 
and i would like to hear more about those bar guages that you used to chec or keep your cabinet square:huh::huh: nicely done glenn

Not Glenn, but those bar guages are very useful for inside measuring. Lee Valley sells the hardware, and you just make two 'sticks' that fit the slots in the hardware and slide along one another to make the measurements.

If the diagonals are equal, the carcase is square.
 
You've been cheating us Glenn, you're not a ww hobbyist but a darn good pro:D:thumb::thumb::thumb:

Confess the truth!! or you'll regret it the rest of your life:rofl::rofl::rofl:


Yeah Toni I am with you. Glenn appears to be a replacement for Norm in the Yankee workshop. Not sure the Northerners would have him though coming from CA.:rofl:

Nice everything Glenn.:thumb:
 
and i would like to hear more about those bar guages that you used to chec or keep your cabinet square:huh::huh: nicely done glenn

I got the Lee Valley ones as a gift but a couple t-nuts and thumbscrews will make a shop made version. The LV version comes with some small brass pins for internal dimensions. They are knid of like a variable story stick but primarily get used for internal square checking in my gara . . . . er, shop.
 
Not Glenn, but those bar guages are very useful for inside measuring. Lee Valley sells the hardware, and you just make two 'sticks' that fit the slots in the hardware and slide along one another to make the measurements.

If the diagonals are equal, the carcase is square.

thanks jim, but i kinda remember something about the diagonals being the same meaning something.. just hadnt seen those gauge things:):thumb:
 
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