What do I need?

Bill Lantry

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OK, folks, I need to make a pen as a gift. It needs to be *presented* on Monday.

Now, I've never made a pen, so I'm not set up for one. My lathe is a big old honking thing, best suited to large bowls. I have no idea what I need? I can make *one* trip to woodcraft. What should I buy?

Oh, and the pen *has* to be very nice. It's for someone special, who's going away, so I don't want it to look like the first pen I ever made... ;)

Thanks,

Bill
 
Wow Bill after having seen Mack Camerons setup and his acquired skill at making pens, I would say you put yourself under a whole lot of pressure and the people round the Thanksgiving table aint going to be too happy with you this weekend cause they aint gonna see you.:rofl::rofl: by the looks of this task.

I will be watching and following along on this one. :):D
 
you will need the mandrel for the size of pen (or go mandrelless), polishing stuff, a clamp of some sort to press it together, maybe some thin ca glue in case it's a tad loose, the right size drill bit for the blank, and about 10 of the pen kit of your choice (because if you don't hit it right in the first 7 tries, you can keep trying)... :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
You'll need:

* A GOOD-QUALITY drill bit the right size (probably 7mm) for the kits you chose.
* A mandrel (unless you want to start by trying it between centers, which I wouldn't advise)
* Something to trim the ends of the blanks / tubes (I use a reloading case trimmer)
* CA glue to glue the tubes into the blanks
* Your choice of pen kits
* Bushings to fit the kits
* Wood (your own stock or your purchase now)
* Abrasives to sand the turned pen to the desired finish
* Some contrivance to press the pen kit together (you CAN use the tailstock at first)
* Your choice of finish (I like dipping lacquer, myself)
 
Bill,

Woodcraft will have everything you need.

Select the pen kit that you like first. The instructions on how to turn and assemble the pen will come with the kit. They are also available online.

The kit will specify the size drill bit...7mm, 8mm, 10mm or a letter size bit. It will also specify the type mandrel you need...an A or B mandrel. The correct bushings for the kit will also be noted. Tip: Keep the bushings in a labeled plastic bag so that when you turn other pen kits later, you will know to which kit and mfg the bushings go.

For trimming the ends of the blank after gluing in the tubes, you can use either a barrel trimmer or a shop-built 90 degree jig with a sanding disc.

Use thick CA glue or epoxy to glue the tubes into the drilled blanks. The CA lets you proceed after just a few minutes whereas you need to wait overnight on the epoxy.

Turn the blanks down to slightly larger than the bushing diameter with a gouge or skew and bring them to final dimension with sandpaper. Sand to the finest grit you have available before finishing.

I would not try a CA glue finish as it's a bit of a learning process to get it right. A poly or lacquer finish is probably your best bet for a nice, durable finish...personally, I'd use Deft gloss lacquer from a rattle can.

Finally, along with whichever nice pen kit you choose, I'd also recommend you get a couple of inexpensive slimline kits to practice on before going to the higher priced one.

Pen turning isn't at all difficult. Getting a good finish is probably the hardest thing of all.

Good luck,
 
With your time frame, I would buy one from a member to be sure to make your deadline. Then you can get all that pen making stuff (you do realize this is a sub-culture with all their own accessories and do-funnys right) and go at it with a safety net.
 
OK, folks,I have no idea what I need?
Bill


First: you need alot of patience.
Second: Youll need more patience than you thought
third: No kids around when you throw something out of frustration(inlaws and first wives are ok to have around the shop at these times)
Fourth:just a drop of skill, which I know you have, so just follow the first three I recommended, and Im sure youll knock it out of the park.
I make pretty ugly slimlines, yet, I have friends and family fighting over them when I show them.
 
Bil, There is a lot to learn for sure.

I use a drill press for drilling the blanks and also for assembling the pens. I just glued a piece of osage orange to the end of a bolt with the head ground flat and I use this to press the pen parts together.

Some woods require finer sanding than others for the highest gloss. Maple can polish well with just 600 or even 320. Cocobolo I sand out to 12000. Some open grain woods I sand with sanding sealer and even CA glue to fill the grain. I always pop the grain on maple with BLO followed by sanding sealer (shellac based) so the CA has something to stick to. Some woods you can wet sand, others NEVER. I almost always use a CA finish. I do this with a capillary type end on the CA bottle so I can dispense small amounts of glue. I use a half sheet of bounty folded up to around 1" x 2". I rub this on the bottom of the sanded pen turnings back and forth as I apply the glue. I look for a haze to develop. Keep the paper moving and smooth the glue continuously at a slow lathe speed. After 5-12 coats I will go back and sand 1500, 2400, then 4000 MM
(Micro Mesh) then polish with Novus polish. I inspect the pen barrels and look for scratches or dull spots. If I find something I go back to adding glue and then through the process.

Resin blanks are harder to turn because they can shatter easy. I rough them on a belt sander till round and then rough them with a sharp 60 degree pointed scraper. Next I use a skew to get them smooth and I alternate between using the skew "knife way" to using it as a scraper. After final sanding, usually 1500 Micro mesh (all wet sanding), I polish with Novus plastic polish/fine scratch remover.

You can turn between centers, but it will be a little harder because there is essentially less room around the ends because the centers are closer to the bushings. You can add spacer bushings to a mandrel to allow more room.

If you want I can get it done and in the mail. :D but I wouldn't want to deprive you of the fun nor the character building and possible blistered paint. By the way I would recommend that you stick to platinum, rhodium, chrome, or titanium gold or black titanium. None of the other finishes hold up in the long term and some won't last but a few weeks of regular use. If you have more questions I can pm you my phone #
 
Take the above offered pen

Really...it will save your weekend. Lots of good advice above on what you'll need for parts & accessories, but the pressure of getting a home run in your first at bat... won't make for a good weekend.

I had to do the same thing under a similar time deadline, and the result was an OK pen, not a great pen. Great pens come from practice. Oh, and if you've decided to actually do this, I hope you're not wasting your time reading my drivel instead of turning pens. (Thank God I don't charge for my advice...you get what you pay for)
 
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