?

I just started ruffing out my blanks using a parting tool.It seems like i can ruff them out in no time doing it this way. Is this something others are doing or am i nuts? The birch one on the lathe only took me about 2 minutes to get it to that point as the pic shows. The cherry one(the biggest with the hole) took a little longer,but the oak was about the same as the birch. Should i just keep doing them this way or should i stop as it could be dangerous?
Thanks as always.
Steve
 

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I can't say yay or nay on whether to keep doing it, but if it works for you why not... you may have more potential for a catch with the parting tool.. but since haven't tried it myself, can't say there either.
 
i am not a turner steve as yall know but int he construction trade,, that idea works for cuttin recess in stair stringers.. only thing i would say to do is knock off the pieces by hand first to eliminate most of the big chucks gettin caught and grabbing your tool.. that way you can ease into the rest for smoothing and not have a inch long chunk that could go at one time..
 
That's not BAD. Less wood pulverized, less steel sharpened away, less time roughing... win-win-win. It may be rough on the parting tool, though, since it's not built for long reaches & heavy pounding. Now I may hafta' experiment with making a heavy short-ended parting tool that clears the ribs, just for bowl-blank roughing. The parting-tool tip wouldn't need to extend much more than about 1/4" from the tip of the clearing tool.
 
Without watching you do this, this is just a guess. But what I think you're doing is using the parting tool like a very small narrow scraper. It's the same principle as the Ci1 type of tool. The difference being that the Ci1 is much more stout and made for that and the thin parting tool runs the risk of a catch or grab and breaking it off. Because the parting tool has such a small cutting or scraping surface it's easy to control. I wouldn't say you shouldn't do it, but there are better tools for the job.
 
Seems like just adding another step in the turning process to me. A very dangerous step. You are still having to use your roughing gouge to clean it up and with the extra time doing it with the parting tool how much time did you really save and at what risk? A good sharp gouge will make short work of roughing as that is what it is designed for. Just one bad catch in a big chunk like that with a parting tool could be very dangerous I would think. Not something I would promote doing just from the safety stand point. I have seen lots of guys injured in my days of working construction with "it seemed like a good idea at the time" thinking.
 
Stephen,

I agree with Curt. In principle, it is working much like a "Bedan" tool as well, but the Bedan is much stouter.

Why not try to get one of those? I think your parting tool will thank you.

I have a friend over here that seems to like using his parting tool for other than its designed functions, with pretty good results, too. Not absolutely Kosher, but, like you, it works for him.

Aloha, Tony
 
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I will not address the "nuts" question except to point out what kind of company you keep here. ;)
Whatever works, works. Methinks, as Curt mentioned, you could use the Ci or similar tool instead.
 
Without watching you do this, this is just a guess. But what I think you're doing is using the parting tool like a very small narrow scraper. It's the same principle as the Ci1 type of tool. The difference being that the Ci1 is much more stout and made for that and the thin parting tool runs the risk of a catch or grab and breaking it off. Because the parting tool has such a small cutting or scraping surface it's easy to control. I wouldn't say you shouldn't do it, but there are better tools for the job.
Curt i have tryed other tools and yes they do work. not trying to promote this way just curious if anyone else has tryed it. All i'm doing is running the tool in to the wood just like a parting tool is made for.

Seems like just adding another step in the turning process to me. A very dangerous step. You are still having to use your roughing gouge to clean it up and with the extra time doing it with the parting tool how much time did you really save and at what risk? A good sharp gouge will make short work of roughing as that is what it is designed for. Just one bad catch in a big chunk like that with a parting tool could be very dangerous I would think. Not something I would promote doing just from the safety stand point. I have seen lots of guys injured in my days of working construction with "it seemed like a good idea at the time" thinking.
No Drew i don't use the roughing gouge at all. it also don't throw those big chunks at my left hand.I go stright from that to my bowl gouge.
Stephen,

I agree with Curt. In principle, it is working much like a "Bedan" tool as well, but the Bedan is much stouter.

Why not try to get one of those? I think your parting tool will thank you.

I have a friend over here that seems to like using his parting tool for other than its designed functions, with pretty good results, too. Not absolutely Kosher, but, like you, it works for him.

Aloha, Tony
Tony i heard of this from a guy at the local aaw demonstration i went to.He is a very accomplished turner and he does demos all over the south.
 
Seems like just adding another step in the turning process to me. A very dangerous step. You are still having to use your roughing gouge to clean it up and with the extra time doing it with the parting tool how much time did you really save and at what risk? A good sharp gouge will make short work of roughing as that is what it is designed for. Just one bad catch in a big chunk like that with a parting tool could be very dangerous I would think. Not something I would promote doing just from the safety stand point. I have seen lots of guys injured in my days of working construction with "it seemed like a good idea at the time" thinking.

I won't let a roughing gouge get ANYWHERE NEAR faceplate work. A large bowl gouge (very different animal) is the gouge to use to rough bowls out, if you don't use a single-point tool or this novel parting-tool technique.
 
Stephen Bellinger said:
Curt i have tryed other tools and yes they do work. not trying to promote this way just curious if anyone else has tryed it. All i'm doing is running the tool in to the wood just like a parting tool is made for.
Usually when you use a parting tool the wood is already round. But using it to rough with on an uneven, not round piece of wood gives you that hit and miss action at the business end of the tool creating a lot of torque and stress to the tool. It's probably also dinging up your tool rest a little too where that narrow surface of the parting tool is hitting it. I just think that eventually something will go haywire using it as a roughing tool. Just be careful, wear your face shield (always when roughing with any tool), and don't get too aggressive with the cuts.
BTW, I've never really roughed a piece with a parting tool but I have parted off a log or uneven hunk of wood. I've also broke a parting tool doing that so I know they can snap pretty easy if something goes wrong.
 
I'll second Curt's observations and suggestions. The reason it's easy for you to control the parting tool is because it's taking a narrow bite. Although it'll work, there are better, stronger tools for the task. Also, as someone memtioned, the narrowness of the parting tool make it more likely to gouge into the tool rest.
 
Stephen, I'm the sort that says if it works for you, use it, but I also have concerns about the parting tool snapping. I turn almost all my faceplate stuff with an Oland tool. They are easy and cheap to make and work quite well. Works much like a scraper, but they have a "sweet spot" just like a gouge and can send long curlies flying too with some practice. Give it a try.
 
Actually I turn this way sometimes. I made a very stout handle out of 5/8" X 1-1-2 X 30" long tough steel. I machined the end to accept cobalt/ HSS lathe tools. It is essentially the same principle. You have a small sharp narrow tool cutting wood grain so I think there is LESS chance of a catch. It is no more than a glorified scraper. The extra mass of the steel handle helps a lot. It cuts end grain very nice.

I also employ the same principle when turning Poly resin pen blanks. I have found that i can quickly rough down a pen plank using the point of a 60 degree scraper. The poly does shatter but the fractures are small because the point is small.

The first tool was not my idea. I learned this method and copied the tool invented by a master turner. (with his permission) He disliked gouges in general and turns mostly with scrapers. He does turn mostly end grain bowls so this makes sense.
 
There are better tools than a parting tool to rough a bowl. About the first time you hit a knot and your tool shatters it will make you think. Just ask a friend of mine here in town. He had been using a parting tool for almost a year with no problems until he hit a knot while roughing. Fortunately the steel shattering only cut his hand not deep in a couple of places. Also he was only wearing safety glasses and not a face shield when a piece hit his face. A Ci1 or bowl gouge is a heavier, stouter tool to work with. As my friend said and Curt said parting tools can snap real easily. Just my $1.298.
 
I won't let a roughing gouge get ANYWHERE NEAR faceplate work. A large bowl gouge (very different animal) is the gouge to use to rough bowls out, if you don't use a single-point tool or this novel parting-tool technique.

Ok sorry my mistake for using the wrong tool in regards to the roughing gouge as apposed to the Bowl gouge. Still getting the names of the tools right as bowl gouges weren't around when i was turning in school 30 yrs ago ( or at least they weren't availible to us) . Still I can't see a parting tool as being a safeway of roughing anything out. Yes i have done similar things with working on the job site with a circular saw and chisel (even chain saw and timber chisels) and i can see the merit in what is being done. Not saying it can't be done that way but just asking if it is the safest way of doing it with the particular tool? Just doesn't seem right to me. Maybe I am alone in my feelings and this is the way things are done? You don't know till you ask these questions. :dunno::dunno:
 
Stephen, I'm the sort that says if it works for you, use it, but I also have concerns about the parting tool snapping. I turn almost all my faceplate stuff with an Oland tool. They are easy and cheap to make and work quite well. Works much like a scraper, but they have a "sweet spot" just like a gouge and can send long curlies flying too with some practice. Give it a try.

Jeff book marked that site as, i can see that does look like something that would work well for me. thanks i'll be making one sometime in the near futhure.:)
 
Ok sorry my mistake for using the wrong tool in regards to the roughing gouge as apposed to the Bowl gouge. Still getting the names of the tools right as bowl gouges weren't around when i was turning in school 30 yrs ago ( or at least they weren't availible to us) . Still I can't see a parting tool as being a safeway of roughing anything out. Yes i have done similar things with working on the job site with a circular saw and chisel (even chain saw and timber chisels) and i can see the merit in what is being done. Not saying it can't be done that way but just asking if it is the safest way of doing it with the particular tool? Just doesn't seem right to me. Maybe I am alone in my feelings and this is the way things are done? You don't know till you ask these questions. :dunno::dunno:

Drew as i work as a carpenter and have for over 30 years. I have also seen a lot of stuff that would make most people cringe. I do appecate all the comments on here. not saying i woun't do as i think is right for me,but will take everything into account.I am a big beliver of listening to my enter voice and it hasn't let me down sence i started listening to it.:thumb: like i said earler i heard of this from a very noted turner.This is the first time trying it and it just seemed to work well for me.i'm not promating anyone try it just asking ?.
 
Drew as i work as a carpenter and have for over 30 years. I have also seen a lot of stuff that would make most people cringe. I do appecate all the comments on here. not saying i woun't do as i think is right for me,but will take everything into account.I am a big beliver of listening to my enter voice and it hasn't let me down sence i started listening to it.:thumb: like i said earler i heard of this from a very noted turner.This is the first time trying it and it just seemed to work well for me.i'm not promating anyone try it just asking ?.

Stephen i am also a carpenter and have been for about 30 yrs. It is all my experience and lots of bad accidents that I have witnessed that makes me say something about this. I am not trying to tick anyone off just voicing my opinion. Even though it has been over 30 yrs since I was last turning and things were different then.
 
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