Hollowing Day and Questions

Dan Mosley

Member
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1,169
Location
Palm Springs, Ca
Called off work today so i spent the day playing in the garage again with the lathe and a burl table top. I decided to use the mandrel i bought awhile back to part off the vessel. I think this is a easy way to part off as long as you take into account where the bottom of the vessel is and leave some extra for tapering down to the size bottom you want.
I was using the powergrip jaws which meant that i had to leave a bit on for the jaws to secure to - come in a bit and make a groove that would eventually become where i taper down and part off at......see Picture 1 - Mandrel with the vessel in it. Next time im going to come in a bit more and create a sharper curve to the bottom and a smaller base but for the trial run what the heck.........
Picture 2 and 3 are the same vessel sanded down to 320 and one coat of tung oil on - now drying and will probably put 3-4 coats and knock down with 0000 between coats - dry for a week and buff.
Picture 4 - Right is a bowl with 3 coats of seal a cell and 3 coats of arm r seal - will dry now for a week and buff
Left is a vessel when i started and due to a bad spot (rotten area) the mouth opened up farther than i wanted so i just finished it out like a bowl. It also has a rotted out hole in the side but it didnt interfere with the finish which is turp/varnish/linseed solution - drying now and will probably buff this one out to.
Question - im thinking that i need to come in from the jaws about 1/2" cut a deep wide groove down into the wood - this will create enough room to taper down the bottom to a smaller bottom unlike the one pictured. Anyother thoughts on ways to do this with the mandrel . By the way i really like the mandrel for parting off.

Thanks Dan
 

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