Hot melt Glue

John, I don't trust it. But that doesn't mean it isn't used by a lot of turners. I prefer Elmer's Wood Glue and turn it tomorrow after being clamped up for overnight. I have enough headaches without getting bonked on the head from flying turnings!!:eek::huh::rofl::rofl:
 
Hot melt glue

Me an hot melt glue don't get along so good,like said I glue it with titebond or epoxy and turn it later.Not to get off the subject,but my concern was his using a roughing gouge :rolleyes: not a good idea on bowls.
 
Not to get off the subject,but my concern was his using a roughing gouge :rolleyes: not a good idea on bowls.

Roughing gouge on the outer rim of the bowl problem? Why?

What would you suggest using? Why?

Why did he tip his chisel down, why not lower the tool rest so the tool goes in horizontal?

What practices did you like and not like and why?

Hey, I'm trying to learn too!!!
 
Hot melt glue

Jonathan,The reason its a bad adea is that you can get a BIG catch real easy with a roughing gouge and with that short handle it can be be snatched out of your hand and end up in a place you would not be happy with,namely your face.I use a bowl gouge for roughing the blank if its a big one,12" an up.on the small ones I usually use my Ci1.Its just way to dangerous.
 
Another problem with using a roughing gouge on faceplate work (or chuck work, in this case) is the shank of the tool is not designed to handle the stresses it can get in the event of a catch. The cutting edge may be 3/4" or 1" wide, but the shank is only 1/4" or 3/8" wide. That's not much steel to support that wide of a potential cut/catch. A bowl gouge, on the other hand, is as thick (thicker, actually) at the ferrule as it is at the cutting tip. That does provide enough steel to safely support the cut/catch potential.

The outer edge of a big piece of wood puts a lot of force on the tool as it spins by...much more than a spindle does. A catch just amplifies that force. I've seen stories of roughing gouges snapping at the ferrule as the result of a catch, with the turner left holding only the handle. This can happen either inside or outside the bowl.

If you look at the roughing gouges in many catalogs, there is often a warning not to use them on faceplate work. It's for good reason. ;)
 
I use my spindle gouge on bowls all the time. I use em when I am turning across the grain the same as spindles. For end grain I use the bowl gouge and usualy finish with a scraper.

Your spindle gouges likely have a shank that's as wide as the cutting end. In those cases, I think it's OK. They are essentially small bowl gouges with a different flute. I still wouldn't work very far off the tool rest with one.
 
I have yet to experience any trouble - I've used hotmelt for lots of stuff from teeny miniatures (bowls & lidded boxes smaller OD than a dime) to 12" bowls I couldn't turn inboard. Sure, I wouldn't rough it really HARD and stall the lathe, but it's fine for a fairly gentle hand.

I won't use any tools except for bowl gouges or scrapers on any faceplate turning. Spindle gouges are built specifically for spindle work, and they do that very well. Roughing gouges are built specifically for roughing spindle work, and they do that very well. Not only are their tangs narrow, they're SHORT... and a rouging gouge has those big pointy wings that just BEG to be caught doing faceplate work.

Na, I use bowl gouges for faceplate work. They're built specifically for that purpose, and they do it very well. Big fat meaty long shanks, heavy flute walls, grinds well suited for the constantly changing grains in faceplate work.
 
Hey, I have that same lathe!

My Dad would have been all over me for holding the tools so loosely. Firm hand over the chisel and a good grip near the end of the handle.

I would have chucked up a Forstner bit on the tailstock to make the hole for the frog. Digging that lightweight scraper with 2 inches of unsupported chisel hanging over the tool rest looked like trouble waiting to happen for me.

Hmmm.
 
...I would have chucked up a Forstner bit on the tailstock to make the hole for the frog...

I was thinking the same thing.

On the grip thing, as I get more confident about my tool presentation, I'm finding that if I loosen my grip a bit I tend to have better control. Not sloppy loose, but I avoid a tight death grip on either the handle or over the tool rest. I keep the tool rest hand fairly firmly planted, but try to hold the handle with just my fingertips as much as possible. About like a pool cue.
 
One thing that has not been mentioned is that I'll bet not all "Hot Melt" glues are the same :dunno:

I'll bet that some are better suited to this job than others. :wave:
 
I have been turning sense before anyone ever heard of a bowl gouge... OMG was I ever in trouble for not waiting till they invented it...:eek:

All those quirks about tool angle and rest height are all questions of technique, each of us have developed our own "Sweet Spots" for turning success.

I have had good and bad experiences with hot glue, I too prefer glue and wait technique but I use a brown paper glued between the project piece and the mounting block. (for easy release)

IMHO Bowl gouges are a Hype item, I have two but have found some advantage using them but not worth the difference in price over conventional tools.

To each his/her own and remember that each tool is only as good as the fellow on the other end
 
Ref. grips... if ya folks are turning with "death grips", you're not enjoying your turning NEARLY enough. Sure, you need a stiff grip if you're using the side of a fingernail grind... but if you're using the tip (or a skew, or a scraper), you can really relax your grip with both hands.

Ya know how, when you're driving on ice, it's best to use only your fingertips on the steering wheel to ensure you're not driving with the death grip that'll take you off the road? Turning's a lot like that - you can turn with both hands almost fully relaxed, and enjoy it a lot more for a longer time. I very seldom have more than fingertip grip on any turning tool's handle, and my guiding hand is only tense enough to make sure the gouge won't skate sideways on me. Except for heavy roughing, of course, when I've got my palm on top of the rougher or bowl gouge. Mostly I've got my index finger underneath, against the toolrest, and I'm guiding my gouge with the tip of that index finger and the tip of my thumb.

Like welding. If you're NOT comfortable, your work won't be as good as if ARE comfortable.
 
Ref. grips... if ya folks are turning with "death grips", you're not enjoying your turning NEARLY enough. Sure, you need a stiff grip if you're using the side of a fingernail grind... but if you're using the tip (or a skew, or a scraper), you can really relax your grip with both hands.

Ya know how, when you're driving on ice, it's best to use only your fingertips on the steering wheel to ensure you're not driving with the death grip that'll take you off the road? Turning's a lot like that - you can turn with both hands almost fully relaxed, and enjoy it a lot more for a longer time. I very seldom have more than fingertip grip on any turning tool's handle, and my guiding hand is only tense enough to make sure the gouge won't skate sideways on me. Except for heavy roughing, of course, when I've got my palm on top of the rougher or bowl gouge. Mostly I've got my index finger underneath, against the toolrest, and I'm guiding my gouge with the tip of that index finger and the tip of my thumb.

Like welding. If you're NOT comfortable, your work won't be as good as if ARE comfortable.

Right on Gumby:thumb:
 
I would have chucked up a Forstner bit on the tailstock to make the hole for the frog. Digging that lightweight scraper with 2 inches of unsupported chisel hanging over the tool rest looked like trouble waiting to happen for me.

Hmmm.

I have a really nice short bladed flat scrape that used to be a round nose scraper... I created the flat scraper by doing just what you mentioned above... too much tool over the tool bar and surprise :eek: suddenly my scraper is 2 inches shorter...:eek::(

I would have reached for a bowl gouge on the outside and probably a forstner on the frog hole.
 
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