design question.

larry merlau

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Delton, Michigan
i have a hutch in the planning stages, i have a end panel that is 70" tall and its 16" wide. the first panel will be aprox 18" to the mullin. do i runt he next seperation horzontal or verticle. another words split it in thirds or have double 8" going up the rst of the panel the doors are going to be 9 light glass. i think i have explained it clearly if not ask me to clarify.. the verticle setup would ike a entrance door similary but the horizontal would allow for abook matched panel. and might be more stable. the panels are going to be 1/4 to 3/8 thick. cherry
 
Thats what I was thinking. If it were me I would go with 'C' assuming equal spacing. I think it will look the best. Followed very closely by 'A'. Actually the more I look at it I think I slightly favor A. It balances better with the doors.

I love the B panel but it is looks upside down to me. The doors in my house are that style, just flipped. My Kitchen bar has that design on the back. The furniture through out my house I have built uses that. It shows up everywhere, even in my garage doors. But, I think you panel is a bit narrow. But I say that without seeing it too.

So there is my opinion. It's worth what it cost you. ;)
 
Hi Larry,
I would like to kick in here but let me pump you for more information, will you use stiles and rails on the side and how wide? Did you want them to be really fine or are you headed for a more plain look? Will there be a heavy crown and then the base, what is that all about? is it high, thick?
What is the entended look of the big drawer fronts? All that glass will add to a beautiful front, take your time designing this, :rolleyes: it'll be a masterpiece! :thumb:
Shaz
 
Hi Larry,
I would like to kick in here but let me pump you for more information, will you use stiles and rails on the side and how wide? Did you want them to be really fine or are you headed for a more plain look? Will there be a heavy crown and then the base, what is that all about? is it high, thick?
What is the entended look of the big drawer fronts? All that glass will add to a beautiful front, take your time designing this, :rolleyes: it'll be a masterpiece! :thumb:
Shaz

WOW that set me back:) aint used to thos KIND words. but if i can muster it the way i see in my head it be ok..it goes to my daughter for a college grad present. just abit late though 3yrs:eek: here choice.
stiles and rails yes, i was leaning towarsd 2" styles with rails the same. was lookin at some type of crown more plain though perhaps justa 2 part cove and bead like jamie did. the base is par of the unit. the drawers were going to have cockbead like jeff did i think only an difernt apporch to it also the doors were ging to have some beading as well the side panels are gonna be curly cherry as well as the drawer frts. hiding some drawlides full extension.
 
If you are going to use slides, used the concealed undermounts. I would also recommend doing false fronts. That way you can do your beading pretty easily and just get them centered and attached.

I agree with the stile and rail sizes. For the crown, two part would work and is simpler to accomplish. Might consider a cove cut on the tablesaw as well as it is plain but elegant in my opinion.
 
WOW that set me back:) aint used to thos KIND words. but if i can muster it the way i see in my head it be ok..it goes to my daughter for a college grad present. just abit late though 3yrs:eek: here choice.
stiles and rails yes, i was leaning towarsd 2" styles with rails the same. was lookin at some type of crown more plain though perhaps justa 2 part cove and bead like jamie did. the base is par of the unit. the drawers were going to have cockbead like jeff did i think only an difernt apporch to it also the doors were ging to have some beading as well the side panels are gonna be curly cherry as well as the drawer frts. hiding some drawlides full extension.
Hi Larry,
Building gifts for the ones you love are the best projects!:thumb:
Okay, with 2" stiles left and right you have 12" of space left in the center between them. If the wood for the panels is really nice and you can fill the 12" panel I would choose "A" . You may think of running a vertical in center of the bottom panel.
Make sure there is at least 2'' of rail showing above the base and 2" of rail showing below the crown.The panel will look more complete and balanced.Can you add some cockbead around the panels on the sides too?
Allow enough room for the crown to " crown the top" be careful not to scrunch it down to far, and allow the base enough size to look strong enough to support your "gift of love". This is my opinion and hope it is understandable, Oh, will you have a mid rail dividing the drawers from the doors?
Shaz
 
mid rail

Oh, will you have a mid rail dividing the drawers from the doors?
Shaz.

i will have mid rail and its one complet unit not two part like someof the others,, the cock bead on the sides is somethingi hant thought of and am not sure how that would work or me being able to do it i was planning on use arail and style set for the side panels but could just use T&G and thn add cock bead like you mentioned. only be a 1/4 deep though..1/4 panels???
 
I'd go with C, only add one more rail in there. Match them up with the doors
 
Oh, will you have a mid rail dividing the drawers from the doors?
Shaz.

i will have mid rail and its one complet unit not two part like someof the others,, Larry, I am not sure I understand this part. the cock bead on the sides is somethingi hant thought of and am not sure how that would work or me being able to do it i was planning on use arail and style set for the side panels but could just use T&G and thn add cock bead like you mentioned. only be a 1/4 deep though..1/4 panels???
Hi Larry,:wave:
Looking through the glass doors, Will you see the stiles and rails of the end panel or will you have an inner wall that covers the sides?
Will you need a false side below to mount the drawer slides on?
How are you planning on making the cockbead, on the table saw?
So many questions. :)
Shaz
 
Hi Larry,:wave:
Looking through the glass doors, Will you see the stiles and rails of the end panel or will you have an inner wall that covers the sides?//yes you will see inside rails stiles.

Will you need a false side below to mount the drawer slides on?//am not sure on that one now, might go with trav's idea of going underneath or i could put something inside for support but would like to have the undeathe idea//looks better to me.

How are you planning on making the cockbead, on the table saw?//round over on the router table and then rip off for the samll stuff could just run the door styles but that is a ways off.

oh and ole fart steve, the first rail would be approx 16 or 17 up and if i put in threee above i would run pretty close on the same height.. the thing i was worried about tis the flex or strength of the panels at 1/4 maybe i should go with a raised panel but didnt want that look. this started out similar to a stickly style but i ahave some shaker feel in it but it turining out to be a mutt mix. hope it has some charater.. the reason for the 1/4 panels is i want to get the most out of my curly cherry.. so will resaw it for the panels. i know i was told to not hurry this but i need to get started soon. and need some idea where to start.. lets see i need wood then need to cut it:huh: thanks for all the help folks
 
ok here is the root of the midset here,, would 1/4 panels be to flimszy in this at 16 inches tall by 14 wide???? if not theni can drop them in a grove or rabet either one butti think a grove would be best for the whole picture.. ok you gurus tell me what you really think of this rednecks mindset:D
 
ok here is the root of the midset here,, would 1/4 panels be to flimszy in this at 16 inches tall by 14 wide???? if not theni can drop them in a grove or rabet either one butti think a grove would be best for the whole picture.. ok you gurus tell me what you really think of this rednecks mindset:D
Hi Larry, I'd like to throw in before the gurus get here, if your panels have some stability there should be no problem as I see it. Caution should be taken between the time they are cut until the time you set them in the frame as they may want to move a bit on you, you may want to sandwich them between 3/4" plywood to keep them flat til you use them. We really never know wood is so different but," what do you think?" Is it worth the try? what is the worst thing that could happen? Can you repair it and how much can be learned by your experiment? I can feel something really nice is going to come from this:thumb: .
Shaz
 
Larry, while I've been thinking about your cabinet and your questions, all the really smart guys have given you the good advice. I'm curious about how wide your cabinet is going to be and the height of the drawer part of the cabinet. Also, what sort of style are you planning to build this cabinet in? A&C, Shaker, Victorian, etc.?

I was thinking that if you'd like, I could doodle something up for you in SU which might give you a better idea of what it would look like. Only if you want me to, of course.
 
LONG ANSWER TO QUESTIONS:)

Larry, while I've been thinking about your cabinet and your questions, all the really smart guys have given you the good advice. I'm curious about how wide your cabinet is going to be and the height of the drawer part of the cabinet. Also, what sort of style are you planning to build this cabinet in? A&C, Shaker, Victorian, etc.?

I was thinking that if you'd like, I could doodle something up for you in SU which might give you a better idea of what it would look like. Only if you want me to, of course.

well mr richards, i will try and answer your ?'s//width not over 48" need to get in truck. height// approx 16 to 18" on the drawer area. total hieght approx 70" the style was heade to be a mix of shaker and A&C, not sure where cock bead is in that mix but have seen it on some old stuff my mom has and liked the look of trav's drawers.. so was leaning towards doing it to the drawers and the doors, it has been mentioned to do it to the side's as well but am not sure ion that. i was trying to not have flat areas to hold dust, example on the side panels so was going to use a rail and style bit for the sides to help in that area,, wasnt wanting thick raised panels becasue i am trying to make the most of my curly cherry and also keep it plain looking but nice, not into the victorin lok where they use alot of fancy work to take your eye away from the real picture the wood.. not down grading any of those that like it its just not my style.. i know to make all the pretty's that victorian has takes alot of skill and that i can see clearly, so if this ansers your questions mr richards go fo r it you wont offend me in any way.. i just wish i could use that program better. still havnt found how to get to the furniture style in it.. and never seen your sketchy pencil look either you are very good in there and it shows.. well i go tmy finners wore out this am so will go and just read abit.. thanks to all who have joined in the discussusion
 
Larry, here's a quickie. Less than 5 minutes including the upload so forgive me if some of it isn't quite right. I think the doors need a bit of proportioning and the center rail on the side should either be slightly higher (it is 2" above center now) or down at the level of the top of the drawer part of the case.)

Anyway, this ought to give you an idea of the shape of things. Now, let me know what to change and I can modifiy it.

merlau1.jpg


By the way, the face frame is drawn at 2" wide as are the rails and stiles for the side. The top edge of the upper drawer is 18" above the floor. the bottom rail and below the drawers is 4". The doors are drawn with 1.5" wide frames but I think that's too narrow.

Oh and as far as the styles in SU, you need to have Version 6 and you can get to the dialog box by clicking on Styles under the Window menu.
 
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